79 k30 steering rebuild

[kickdeez]

I have run 2 different axles under the front of my suburban, neither with a steering stabilizer, and I have not had any death wobble. I never had an issue when I was running my 10 bolt on worn out stock springs. Now I'm running a Dana 60 with new 2" springs and don't have any wobble. I wouldn't recommend relying on a steering stabilizer to correct the wobble. It can definitely reduce the symptoms of loose steering or death wobble, but it is not intended to correct the cause of these symptoms.

There is definitely some merit to shimming, if need be. I have a hard time believing an alignment shop wouldn't check caster, but if it is off, it will certainly affect steering. I never had to shim either of my front axles.

For what it is worth, I noticed a substantial difference in the responsiveness of my steering when I replaced my steering box and pump. I never had any wobble before, but it was a little sloppy for sure. With the new components, everything feels much tighter, and I have a lot more control of the steering. Might be worth biting the bullet and replacing those items. It sounds like your pump is about shot anyway. And if you're going to make a mess replacing the pump, you might as well do the box at the same time.

 

[highdesertrange]

kickdeez is correct, you should be able to run without a stabilizer and not have death wobble. likewise a stabilizer is not a fix for death wobble, it might stop/lessen it but it does not fix the problem. highdesertranger

 

[88CustomDeluxe]

Death Wobble

I'm new to this forum but have appreciated all the information so far!

I also had this death wobble in my 88 R20 when breaking. I'm in the the process of making it 4wd with a D60 and a 4-inch lift. I'll have all new components on the axle and suspension. Plus a new steering box and intermediate shaft. I'll let you know in a week or two if there are any issues.

 

[Lu Blunt]

Too much work haven't had time to wrench, been drivin the ol crewcab everyday. Have plans to put him in the shop for front brake work this week. Pretty sure it's rotor runout or sticky caliper causing the wobble now. Only shakes when braking. Found a place to rebuild steering box for $100 and rebuild power steering pump for $50. That'll be next. Been hauling 25 gallon pots with roots & dirt at around 60-80 lbs each, fit close to 80 pots each load. After the rear shackle flip the rear overload bump stop is 2.5" too far from the overload spring when the truck is loaded. Anyone flip this bump stop to mimic the shakle flip? Also considering an airless airbag setup like sumo springs to help eliminate body roll and add support for heavy loads

 

[Lu Blunt]

Front hanger of rear leaf spring when loaded

 

[Lu Blunt]

Rear hanger of rear leaf when loaded

 

[Lu Blunt]

Anybody have experience with timbrens?

http://www.truckspring.com/products/Timbren-Kit-GM-K20-K30-K2500-and-K3500-Pickup-Rear-4WD__GMRTTK30.aspx

 

[bucket]

No experience with them, but they seem like glorified bump stops. I think you could get the same results just be relocating your rear overload brackets, and maybe adding another leaf to the overload if you still need a little more stabilization.

 

[Lu Blunt]

Just wanted to check in, I ended up replacing front wheel bearings. One of the races had a weird groove in it. Sry no pic. Also had the rotors resurfaced. Finally seems to consistently stop without wobble. Turning and braking are near impossible sometimes due to the power steering pump failing. I traded for a used power steering pump, will try and swap it in soon. I bought a 1979 c10 350 th350 suburban for parts. Paid $350 lol. Real nice doors n fenders n original grill. Suburban hasn't ran since 2011 but I don't mind dragging it home. Hopefully have some picks of it soon for u guys. Something is wrong with the clutch the crewcab. It makes a lot of noise when engaged and can't shift into gears very well. No garage right now so gonna tryn get it to the shop.

 

[Lu Blunt]

Finally got the clutch fixed. Mean while the death wobble when braking slowly came back. I decided the front rotors were warping due to no rear brakes. I had the rear drums rebuilt and that made it stop alot better. I ordered new rotors and calipers, severe duty pads and braided brake lines from ORD

https://torqueking.com/category/brake-parts-1977-1991-gm-dana-60/

Also decided to make the upgrade to crossover steering. I have the ORD crossover kit, ORD swaybay, ORD weld on frame repair, new steering stabilizer, PSC 2wd steering box, new ujoint steering shaft

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[Lu Blunt]

Should I get the draglink and billet steer arm powder coated or just paint them? What about the new rotor... tape off the face and paint with high temp spray paint?

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[Memaloose]

You should also check your tire and rim for damage. Possibly the rim is bent. It could even be a wheel weight that came off. It's good to check the simple stuff first but by all means, replace worn parts and do regular inspections especially after hitting something.

 

[Lu Blunt]

I grazed a dodge with my bumper... not even close to hitting the tires. Dented the fender alittle and broke the headlight bezel. I took the front clip apart to swap fenders n core supports and did not find anymore damage. The death wobble when braking has been a thing before that happened. After the rotors were turned the wobble was gone untill I drove enough without rear brakes to warp the front rotors again.


I’m looking for advice on powder coat or painting the crossover draglink and billet steer arm. Also wondering if I should paint the new rotors to prevent rusting. Thanks

 

[Craig 85]

I painted my rotors and steering parts with black engine paint. It seems to be holding up after a couple of years. We don't have salted roads here.

If you're looking for something different, there's always those hammer tone paints.

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[idahovette]

Used that hammertone silver on my grandsons ralleys(79K10). Looks good and has held up well!!