78 k10 starter problem

[AuroraGirl]

Is your truck a 350 or a 400 by chance you know, or something else?
and you can just order a matching tooth starter for a 90s cchevy but you need to know what count your flywheel is

 

[iamtherealJayy]

It’s a 350 supposedly. It looks like a 350 and all the 350 parts I’ve put on it have worked so far. But I haven’t checked the block and verified what it actually is. If I keep having problems I have another 350 I can drop in.

 

[hoagster]

I looked at Summit racing and there are 70 different starters that you can pick from based on bolt pattern, manual or automatic, and number of flywheel teeth.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

How can I figure out the amount of flywheel teeth? It’s a manual transmission

 

[hoagster]

How to Identify a Chevy Small Block Flywheel

Flywheels are mounted to the rear of the engine on manual shift vehicles -- just before the clutch assembly and transmission -- and are covered by the bellhousing. The primary purpose of the flywheel is to provide momentum for the running engine; it must be properly balanced. The secondary...

itstillruns.com

Read This, it will help.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I would pull off the alt and look at your engine code too and see if you have a 400. They have a special starter and flywheel i think.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Chevy Starter Fitment Is Not A One Size Fits All Situation

When it comes to choosing the correct starter for your Chevy, there are differences you need to know. Find out what those differences are.

www.chevyhardcore.com

 

[Curt]

I haven’t read every post in this thread,but from experience I’ve seen a ignition switch/rod not adjusted or sticking causing starter to stick

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I just completely redid the ignition, it was a universal ignition switch hanging under the dash when I got the truck so I just redid all of it. Ignition cylinder, ignition switch and rebuilt part of the column. The ignition switch might not be adjusted right but the starter was still having problems with the universal one too.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

With the battery charged the truck cranks fine, ran like junk until it ran for a second(no choke hooked up but have one ordered) I let it run until the thermostat opened so I could mess with timing and carb tuning some. The truck is still running rich and quickly pushing the throttle down the truck sounds like it’s taking a quick deep inhale and bogs. I don’t know what the timing is at but I figure make a new forum and provide all the info on there so I’m not on here talking about it
Edit: also have new starter bolts on the way with the manual choke cable and a tachometer.

 

[WFO]

If it is clunking intermittently and not turning over... you have a worn button on the starter solenoid. Pull the starter, undo the screws that hold the plastic cap on the starter solenoid and you see a round button on the bottom of the main starter wire lug. When you engage the starter, it pushes the round plate up onto that button and engages the starter. When that button wears down, you will hear the solenoid engage the round disk(the clunk you hear) but since the lug is worn down it doesn't make contact and the starter wont actually turn. You can unscrew the lug and turn it around so the unworn portion is now making contact with the round disk. This will be functionally equivalent to a brand new lug being installed and should let it keep going for another 20 years or so.

Eric, could this be the problem when the starter engages and spins the engine fine for a few seconds, then disengages while the starter is still spinning?
Or possibly the bendix, or both.