73-87 (91) Fleetside Tailgate Mechanism Repair

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

TPISly-C10

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2019
Posts
615
Reaction score
883
Location
Boucherville QC Canada
First Name
Sly
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
C-10 shortbox
Engine Size
LQ4 6.0L
We'd rather revive old threads than have a ton of repeats as we do, thanks for searching.

Maybe one of the latches is hung up. It happens. Do you have the tailgate open yet?

THX for the "how to" look like mine is bended too so a thing to do soon! ;)

You must be registered for see images attach
 

LateOnTheBrakes

5.3-Swapped 86 CUCV
Joined
Feb 2, 2020
Posts
463
Reaction score
123
Location
Virginia
First Name
Joshua
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
CUCV
Engine Size
5.3
I bought the replacement handle from LMC to swap out the one I mangled trying to remove. I am amazed by how much travel/slop I have in the handle before it begins to engage the lock mechanisms. It seems like there would have to be a return spring to take up the slop.
 

scrap--metal

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2021
Posts
691
Reaction score
1,314
Location
MN
First Name
Calvin
Truck Year
'85, '81
Truck Model
K10, K20
Engine Size
305, 350
Thanks for this write up HotRodPC! I followed your tutorial and fixed the tailgate on my K20 last night.

My handle mechanism was frozen solid with the end latches in an open position. Lots of penetrating oil, hammering, lithium grease, and working the mechanism back and forth now have it working like a new tailgate.

Thank you!
 

Mark80K15

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2021
Posts
98
Reaction score
54
Location
Sicamous, BC
First Name
Mark
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K15
Engine Size
350
I just did my tailgate. I used LMC parts. I replaced the tailgate handle (part 38-6622), the latch rods (38-6633), and the left and right latch assemblies (30-1546 and 30-1547). Once the latch assemblies and tailgate handle are roughly in place inside the tailgate, the next step is to insert the latch rods into the handle assembly, as @HotRodPC aptly described: this is the part where you have to hold your mouth just right with patience to insert the rods into the handle cam holes. He says do the left side first (I think because it is less accessible). The right side is harder to do, because the left side is in already. I found that both rods must extend as far to the center of the tailgate as possible, to allow for insertion into the cam holes. What I wanted to point out is that pushing the latch into the latch assembly as far as possible will help achieve this. Use a large screwdriver and jam the latches in (toward the center of the tailgate). This causes the rod to extend closer to the center, and closer to their final resting spot in the cam, thus making it easier to insert the rod into the cam. Now you can unclench. I did, and I feel better now.

But the latches don't engage worth crap, I think because my box sides are wobbly and slightly misaligned. Comes from abusing the box by loading large logs. I think I have bolt problems underneath the box, and if I can solve that, I will add to this post.
 

Turbo4whl

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2019
Posts
3,125
Reaction score
7,254
Location
Downingtown, PA
First Name
Wayne
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
Jimmy
Engine Size
350
I just did my tailgate. I used LMC parts. I replaced the tailgate handle (part 38-6622), the latch rods (38-6633), and the left and right latch assemblies (30-1546 and 30-1547). Once the latch assemblies and tailgate handle are roughly in place inside the tailgate, the next step is to insert the latch rods into the handle assembly, as @HotRodPC aptly described: this is the part where you have to hold your mouth just right with patience to insert the rods into the handle cam holes. He says do the left side first (I think because it is less accessible). The right side is harder to do, because the left side is in already. I found that both rods must extend as far to the center of the tailgate as possible, to allow for insertion into the cam holes. What I wanted to point out is that pushing the latch into the latch assembly as far as possible will help achieve this. Use a large screwdriver and jam the latches in (toward the center of the tailgate). This causes the rod to extend closer to the center, and closer to their final resting spot in the cam, thus making it easier to insert the rod into the cam. Now you can unclench. I did, and I feel better now.

But the latches don't engage worth crap, I think because my box sides are wobbly and slightly misaligned. Comes from abusing the box by loading large logs. I think I have bolt problems underneath the box, and if I can solve that, I will add to this post.
Put a ratchet binder or a come-a-long around the bed sides and pull them back together.
 

Selo

Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Posts
39
Reaction score
9
Location
Greensboro nc
First Name
John
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
250
Here's one other thing you need to check on the bed sides. The catches where the latches hook. Notice my right side looks to be OK. Compare that to the left side and notice the stop on the left side is worn away. I will be replacing that left catch off of another truck bed I have that's in not such good shape. A 9/16 socket for the 2 bolts is all that's required to replace the catches.
HotRodPC,

I know this is an old thread, but am sending a thanks for this info in case the message gets to you. Very helpful and very appreciated.

Selo
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,853
Reaction score
5,646
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
HotRodPC,

I know this is an old thread, but am sending a thanks for this info in case the message gets to you. Very helpful and very appreciated.

Selo
@HotRodPC
 

Selo

Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Posts
39
Reaction score
9
Location
Greensboro nc
First Name
John
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
250
My 1984 C10 tailgate mechanism was to the point where opening and closing the tailgate was difficult and I was beginning to bend the handle. Using this thread for inspiration......I removed left and right latches and the handle mechanism. All parts were basically OK but the handle was difficult to move and the portion of the assembly that works the latch rods would hardly move at all. I submerged the handle assembly and both latch assemblies in
Evapo-Rust (great stuff by-the-way). I warmed the Evapo-rust as it doesn't work well below 70F. This removed all surface rust and I was hoping any rust in the pivot points of the handle assembly. It certainly cleaned the rusty parts up nicely (did I say this was good stuff?). After the rust treatment I applied Kroil to the pivot points repeatedly for a day of two. I then worked the assembly pivot points by hand until all moved pretty good. I then applied some light oil to moving points. These parts don't need to feel loose as the springs in the latch assembles are very strong. I sprayed the cleaned latch assemblies with WD40's version of Fluid Film to lubricate and help keep rust at bay when re-installed. I did the same with the handle. I re-installed all and the tailgate now opens and closes like brand new. Smooth and easy to operate, latches securely. Thanks to all, Selo
 

HotRodPC

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Posts
47,128
Reaction score
9,299
Location
OKC, OK
First Name
HotRod
Truck Year
85 K20 LWB
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
I guess I've missed a few Thank You's not keeping up with this thread. Glad it's helped a few out. :waytogo: Glad to help when and where I can !!! That's what we do here.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,156
Posts
950,542
Members
36,268
Latest member
JUKA
Top