64-67 327 210hp engine in 84 chevy c10 swb (project build)

[tegra]

been searching for a 80s model swb square body for many years..well this was my lucky year 3 days ago i was delivered my very own 84 Chevy c10 (looks abused but no rust) truck as my 34th birthday from my dad. we bought the truck for strictly the body to build on and didn't think to check under hood because we were gonna build an engine anyways. well much to our surprise it wasn't a 350 it was a 327 210hp engine from what i decoded numbers to be a 64-67 Chevy II nova engine. so now instead of a 350 build it is now a 327 build. Now here comes part where i need advice...i want to drive truck roughly 30 miles daily and build a engine with some kick to it. it has a turbo 350 so would need over drive any recommendations? ive heard put a 283 crank and make a 302.i was thinking on a mild cam and some updated heads to start ..i can search all day problem is i dont know what to apply to my build and not too because everyone is different. please give me some positive insight or opinions. thanks

 

[HotRodPC]

I'd keep that 327 just like it is and go with it. That will be a small journal 327 with a forged steel crank. All small journal motors were forged cranks. That small journal also cranks up the rpms real quick and begs for more. I've spun one of those making power to 6800 rpm before and could rap it to 7500 rpm without issues on the bottom end. Just be sure to have it nicely balanced, moly rod bolts, shot peened rods and such if you intend to turn it that hard. Also, obviously big cam and springs will be needed to get it to turn that kind of rpm and not float the valves. It's a tough as nails bottom end, so a mild cam and pulling hard til 5500-6000 rpm is not much of a problem.

 

[Georgeb]

I'd keep that 327 just like it is and go with it. That will be a small journal 327 with a forged steel crank. All small journal motors were forged cranks. That small journal also cranks up the rpms real quick and begs for more. I've spun one of those making power to 6800 rpm before and could rap it to 7500 rpm without issues on the bottom end. Just be sure to have it nicely balanced, moly rod bolts, shot peened rods and such if you intend to turn it that hard. Also, obviously big cam and springs will be needed to get it to turn that kind of rpm and not float the valves. It's a tough as nails bottom end, so a mild cam and pulling hard til 5500-6000 rpm is not much of a problem.

Ditto to this. I had one of those with a mild cam and that motor was lots of fun. And it did wind up fast.

 

[bucket]

327's are a great engine, just like the 350. The 350 is more popular simply because they were produced for much much longer and there are more of them around.

 

[HotRodPC]

327's are a great engine, just like the 350. The 350 is more popular simply because they were produced for much much longer and there are more of them around.

While this is all true, the 64-67 327 is even more exceptional being the small journal forged crank engine. And all the hype and talk about high nickel block BS, it's absolutely true for the old small journal motors. They're just so hard to kill. I wouldn't mind trying a small journal engine with some vortec heads. I think it would be a screaming bitch.

 

[bucket]

Also, pretty sure that's a truck engine based on the color, decal and horsepower rating. The 4bbl 283 was rated at 220 in cars and I think all the basic passenger car 327's in those years were rated at 275. The later large journal car motor was rated at 235.

 

[HotRodPC]

There were different variants. Whether it has the Power Pak or Fuelie aka Double Hump heads, 2 or 4bbl carb.

 

[DoubleDingo]

As mentioned, keep that thing as is and run it. Or send it to me and I can slap it in my '65

 

[HotRodPC]

That's what I'm saying. I'd even be willing to make a trade. I've got a 350 4 bolt motor I'd trade for a small journal in a heartbeat. I should have never gotten rid of the one I had. I was just into racing back then and was ready for more cubes was the only reason I got rid of it. I wouldn't even mind having a small journal 327 for my off road truck. Them things love rpm and scream. Remember, they're the same bore as a 350 just a shorter stroke. That shorter stroke also helps gets the rpms up. They won't out run an LS engine unless you do some work to it, but they still make a screaming daily driver engine with some pep.

 

[68post]

They also don't outrun a 350.

That block should be worth money in a Nova , it's rare because of the recessed oil filter mount and unique to Novas only !!

I'd sell it on StevesNovasite.com for good cash and use the extra to fund the new build, and I'd go to a newer TBI or Vortec roller block with vortec heads.

$.02

 

[tegra]

thanks for all the feedback i work long hours and was able to sit down check status and liking what i read. i intend to keep this engine i did however find the number on block and looked it up (3858174) which showed to be from 64-67 chevy II nova on one site(cant remember name off hand) but can someone help me find info on it like crank it uses ect... i am also wondering what oil filter these use because one on it is old and needs changed but cant read number on it. as far as cam and heads what is recommended to get my truck some muscle it needs? thank you all for taking time to visit my post i will return please be patient..

 

[Jarhead79]

Call Oreillys and ask them what oil filter to use, I'm betting it'll be the same as the 305 and 350 my my 79 and my 92 both use the same filter.

 

[HotRodPC]

thanks for all the feedback i work long hours and was able to sit down check status and liking what i read. i intend to keep this engine i did however find the number on block and looked it up (3858174) which showed to be from 64-67 chevy II nova on one site(cant remember name off hand) but can someone help me find info on it like crank it uses ect... i am also wondering what oil filter these use because one on it is old and needs changed but cant read number on it. as far as cam and heads what is recommended to get my truck some muscle it needs? thank you all for taking time to visit my post i will return please be patient..

The oil filter was probably the old canister type where you just change the insert. Chances are someone has converted it to a spin on type. Mine was converted and used the very common PH8A aka 1A in most others brands other than Fram, for the tall, and IIRC, PH25 if it was short. I still used the PH8A even with my headers. Point is, the book or calling O'Reilly's may not do you any good. It'll have to do with whatever spin on conversion kit you have on it.

 

[tegra]

It does have a conversion plate or something im not sure of it is a plate on original filter location with 2 hoses attached and runs to filter under the hood and im not liking it sitting under hood because it lays on its side and looking under the truck it appears it would fit in original location but be close to headers. i was thinking just make custom heat shield for it or like you said use a shorter filter i will post a few pictures in a moment of how it is now.

 

[bucket]

So someone has put a remote mount filter on it. Nothing wrong with that IMHO, and the horizontal position should make it easier to catch the oil in a pan when you remove it.