64-67 327 210hp engine in 84 chevy c10 swb (project build)

[tegra]

So someone has put a remote mount filter on it. Nothing wrong with that IMHO, and the horizontal position should make it easier to catch the oil in a pan when you remove it.

yes the idea is ok but the way it was laying down was awkward and didnt seem like it was used as intended.


anyways update on the engine i have bad news i had time to day to pull the dipstick and check oil and was in process of changing it. unfortunately it was sort of greyish color and has me worried water is in engine. i have taken pictures of it and will post them asap. i pulled valve covers and it was sort of snot looking crap on the top of covers (wiped clean) i took my air compressor and covered the oil ports and blew all of it off the rockers ect and while i had them off i took some pics of the numbers stamped in heads. so my plan is to flush rest engine with some cheap oil let it get to running temp and drain it then once more and if no water is in it change with some good quality oil. could an engine be sitting too long have a good bit of condensation build up in it? what are yalls thoughts i provided as many pics i could take before it started raining.

 

[tegra]

all pictures wouldnt upload in one post so here are rest of them..can anyone tell me more about the heads with these numbers?

 

[Speakfordadead]

While this is all true, the 64-67 327 is even more exceptional being the small journal forged crank engine. And all the hype and talk about high nickel block BS, it's absolutely true for the old small journal motors. They're just so hard to kill. I wouldn't mind trying a small journal engine with some vortec heads. I think it would be a screaming bitch.

An excellent big bore, long rod, short stroke combination project.

 

[Speakfordadead]

yes the idea is ok but the way it was laying down was awkward and didnt seem like it was used as intended.


anyways update on the engine i have bad news i had time to day to pull the dipstick and check oil and was in process of changing it. unfortunately it was sort of greyish color and has me worried water is in engine. i have taken pictures of it and will post them asap. i pulled valve covers and it was sort of snot looking crap on the top of covers (wiped clean) i took my air compressor and covered the oil ports and blew all of it off the rockers ect and while i had them off i took some pics of the numbers stamped in heads. so my plan is to flush rest engine with some cheap oil let it get to running temp and drain it then once more and if no water is in it change with some good quality oil. could an engine be sitting too long have a good bit of condensation build up in it? what are yalls thoughts i provided as many pics i could take before it started raining.

If you get past the milkshake scare, I would highly reccommend a high zinc oil for the exhaust valves. Unless you know for a fact it has hardened seats. Especially if you are making it a daily driver.

 

[Speakfordadead]

That's what I'm saying. I'd even be willing to make a trade. I've got a 350 4 bolt motor I'd trade for a small journal in a heartbeat. I should have never gotten rid of the one I had. I was just into racing back then and was ready for more cubes was the only reason I got rid of it. I wouldn't even mind having a small journal 327 for my off road truck. Them things love rpm and scream. Remember, they're the same bore as a 350 just a shorter stroke. That shorter stroke also helps gets the rpms up. They won't out run an LS engine unless you do some work to it, but they still make a screaming daily driver engine with some pep.

Too bad you are in OK.... I have about 30 62-67 blocks and heads. About four or five cranks to go with...

 

[Speakfordadead]

They also don't outrun a 350.

That block should be worth money in a Nova , it's rare because of the recessed oil filter mount and unique to Novas only !!

I'd sell it on StevesNovasite.com for good cash and use the extra to fund the new build, and I'd go to a newer TBI or Vortec roller block with vortec heads.

$.02

I was hoping I wasn't the only one who thought it was a Chevy II block that's worth thousands to some poor guy who wants a numbers matching car.

 

[Speakfordadead]

Some poor bastard is out there, sobbing because he can't find a Chevy II block!! Find yourself a good 350 or 383 for some added grunt and sell that chevyII motor t pay for your squares new upgrade

 

[tegra]

If you get past the milkshake scare, I would highly reccommend a high zinc oil for the exhaust valves. Unless you know for a fact it has hardened seats. Especially if you are making it a daily driver.

lol milkshake scare...is this common? also i have no clue what seats they used i havent talked to guy that put it together he is in jail. what kind of oil are you talking about

 

[Speakfordadead]

lol milkshake scare...is this common? also i have no clue what seats they used I haven't talked to guy that put it together he is in jail. what kind of oil are you talking about

I use Brad Penn.... Royal Purple or Joe Gibbs have Zinc additives you can mix with your oil. I use Brad Penn because I prefer to let the professional chemists do the mixing.

Milkshake scare is what you have... it's either condensation or a head gasket/cracked water port somewhere. Oil and water make your dipstick and valve cover look like they have milkshake all over them.

Machinists can install hardened valve seats for the exhaust valves. Unleaded low octane fuels can cause some damage to your valve train without them.

 

[tegra]

thank you for the tips i really appreciate it. i have found another 327 local for cheap im gonna install and run it and do a complete build on one in truck since i know nothing about it. will keep posting sometimes will be away for a while due to work schedule will check back though. thanks

 

[HotRodPC]

So what does the oil in the pan look like? That white milkshake oil in the valve covers could just be heavy condensation. Although it does look like an awful lot. Usually the first thing that comes to mind is a blown head gasket when you see that. If it's got the Power Pak or Fuelie heads on it, they're NOT prone to cracking. Jeanne is correct about the valve seats. If they are not hardened, and not to late already, you'll either want oil high in zinc or an additive of zinc, or have hardened seats installed in the heads.

So about this other 327? What year model is it? If it's a 68 or 69, I'd probably just pass on it and go for a used 350 instead. Unless someone is wanting a # matching 68 or 69 327 doesn't have alot of value. Same block as a 350, but also has the cast crank and standard size journals so all the advantages of the 62-67 327 are out the window.

Nothing wrong with that remote oil filter either. It sorts it also doubles as an oil cooler, just not a very efficient oil cooler, but you could easily add a cooler inline with the filter and remount the filter to vertical if the horizontal bothers you. My 327 had the conversion filter in the normal location and I ran the PH8A/FL1A which is the tall one, and it also cleared my headers.

 

[tegra]

*update* motor is knocking old man said it sounds like spun bearing so it will be pulled out soon and continue with 350 build. if anyone wants the block will sell it as is to help fund my build.

 

[tegra]

new build will be posted i bought a 2001 chevy suburban complete running with 5.3 and 4l60e transmission so will be installing it into my truck. admin can close this tread if want too. 327 was sold local to a guy wanted it for his hotrod for $300 so it worked out pretty well since suburban is $600

 

[HotRodPC]

Soo this build just got real with an LS conversion.

 

[tegra]

Soo this build just got real with an LS conversion.

yessir

transmission was full of water too. mind you i was told this truck ran great lol. i only wanted body to begin with looks like that's all i got in the end. had motor out in 2 hours taking our time me and my old man. gonna pressure wash whole engine bay and spray/roll it with some paint,frame saver, or bed liner not decided yet. with the swap now under way i am only concerned with the harness modification i want to do it myself because tbh $500 is not in my budget to buy one done already . is there anywhere i can find schematics or does anyone do them cheaper?decided to just keep this thread rolling and that way can follow along my journey lol. suburban wont be here till next weekend so i have time to clean it all up before i tackle the swap. To Be Continued................