6.2 Overheating Woes

[Milblazer]

Hmm, it was a while back when I put mine together, but I don't remember doing that. I had my brother helping me and we used a GM service manual. Maybe he did it while I was working on something else.

Here on page 3-82, number 2: http://www.jatonkam35s.com/CUCVTechnicalmanuals/tm9-2320-289-34.pdf

 

[DoubleDingo]

Think I found my problem.

Yep, sure looks like a passage was completely blocked.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I have the heads reinstalled and torqued down. Pushrods are installed and im ready to put the rockers on. Im using the CUCV TM and it now says I have to rotate the harmonic balancer to a specific point and then install the rocker arms. Why do I have to do that?

Maybe it is so you have everything already set with No. 1 in TDC and you can then adjust the valves from there without having to get No. 1 to TDC after installing the rockers. I assume you can do the two roll valve adjustment like you can with small block gas fired engines.

 

[Stroked]

Maybe it is so you have everything already set with No. 1 in TDC and you can then adjust the valves from there without having to get No. 1 to TDC after installing the rockers. I assume you can do the two roll valve adjustment like you can with small block gas fired engines.

Yea, now that I've thought about it for a while, I'm thinking that is what we did.

 

[Milblazer]

Here are a few update pictures showing my progress over the past couple days. I'm slowly getting everything put back together. Going to be waiting for a few parts.

Does anyone know what size engine harness clips go on this thing? It seems mine have disappeared to the place all those single socks go.

 

[Milblazer]

Maybe it is so you have everything already set with No. 1 in TDC and you can then adjust the valves from there without having to get No. 1 to TDC after installing the rockers. I assume you can do the two roll valve adjustment like you can with small block gas fired engines.

Valve adjustment? Why would the valves need adjusting?

 

[Milblazer]

Everything is bolted back together. I'm currently trying to bleed out the fuel system and i'm running into problems. I've air bled the fuel filter until diesel came out the top, I've used a hand bulb and tried pumping the fuel into the return line from the fuel filter with no luck. I've cracked the fuel lines and nothing is coming out. Even worse is I can only crank for ten seconds at a time because the copper braided engine ground starts to smoke. If I remove that ground then the brake lines start to get hot right where they meet the oil cooler lines. This is starting to get really annoying.

 

[Milblazer]

Only thing I accomplished today was that I drained my batteries. I've charged them and i'll start this whole process again tomorrow. Knew I should have installed an electric pump.

 

[Milblazer]

Figured out it helps to put the pink wire back on the IP when you're trying to get fuel to the injectors. Okay, so I've got the air out of the lines now, new AC Delco glow plugs....and still no start, ****! I've charged the batteries, cycled the glowplugs mutiple times, stuffed up the exhaust, sprayed some WD-40 in the intake, and had the pedal to the floor all at the same time and it still wont start. There's a decent fuel leak coming from the IP somewhere under the intake so I'm pulling the intake tomorrow. I'm thinking maybe the leak is causing air to get into the fuel system so its having issues. Could be a bad glow plug relay? Air still in the lines? Really bad luck?

 

[Milblazer]

Today I removed the intake and found two loose injector lines at the IP so no more fuel leaks. There was also a lose connection on one of the injectors that got tightened up. I unhooked the temperature connector on the passenger rear head and swapped out the glow plug relay for a different one I had lying around. I pulled out all of the glowplugs and they were covered in diesel fuel. Without the glowplugs installed I cranked the engine a few times to blow out anything sitting on the cylinders. Reinstalled the glowplugs, cycled them a few times and my truck started for a few seconds and died. Some more cycling and with my foot to the floor it started again and stayed running until I had to get out because the garage was filling with white smoke. It didnt smell sweet, smelled like unburnt fuel and it was thick. Truck kept running for about twenty seconds until it sounded like it was struggling and just died. When it was running it did not sound like it should have, it did not have that diesel clack-clack. Im pretty sure I have a timing issue so tomorrow I'm going to take a look at the IP gear and...other stuff. I'm lost at this point.

 

[Milblazer]

The cause of the no starting was in fact a timing issue. The black sharpie line was where the IP gear was on top of the cam gear, the indents are where it should be. Must have moved when I was messing around with the IP. Runs a lot better now, still needing some final adjustments as there is some white smoke when you put your foot down. Temp seems to run about 10-15 degrees cooler when it is in the 70s as opposed to around 220 at idle in the 40s. Still need to get it out on the road and see how it performs, just waiting on the funds for an oil and coolant change.

Found an interesting bit of information in one of the 6.2 books I have regarding on when the thermostats open.