5.3L LS checklist with part numbers

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iamtherealJayy

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Yes the clutch should be clearing I can turn the crank with no clunking or binding. The first two links you sent seem to be the same lol, the manifolds clear but the down pipe afyer the 02 sensor goes straight into the frame. No wires are back there I’ve yanked plenty of wiring out of frustration. I also broke my original throttle cable trying to get it to uclip from the firewall. Also dented the firewall with the bolt I had the chain on for the cherry picker. I’ve had a lot fighting against me. What size clutch should I be using? I went with a 1978 Chevrolet k10 factory replacement 12” clutch. It was the “factory replacement” I had the option to go to an 11” but I chose factory replacement. My sachs1050 flywheel claims to work with an 11 or 12. So far everything that could cause an issue has caused an issue. And I haven’t even started wiring or fuel system stuff yet…
 

Elliot W

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Yes the clutch should be clearing I can turn the crank with no clunking or binding. The first two links you sent seem to be the same lol, the manifolds clear but the down pipe afyer the 02 sensor goes straight into the frame. No wires are back there I’ve yanked plenty of wiring out of frustration. I also broke my original throttle cable trying to get it to uclip from the firewall. Also dented the firewall with the bolt I had the chain on for the cherry picker. I’ve had a lot fighting against me. What size clutch should I be using? I went with a 1978 Chevrolet k10 factory replacement 12” clutch. It was the “factory replacement” I had the option to go to an 11” but I chose factory replacement. My sachs1050 flywheel claims to work with an 11 or 12. So far everything that could cause an issue has caused an issue. And I haven’t even started wiring or fuel system stuff yet…
Sorry here is the link for mounts https://www.ebay.com/itm/284974365592

Maybe the kit headers I use stay away from the frame than the stock ones. I've seen some people notch the frame there but I wouldn't recommend that. I had to use a new throttle wire as well to be long enough for the LS.

The clutch kit and flywheel I got from rockauto parts 04182WS (04-182-WS) and NFW1050. Again mine was going to a 2wd nv3500 though.
 

iamtherealJayy

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350, 350, 350
That link is for plug wires, maybe the original plug wires link was the mounts I dunno I’ll figure it out, I used the 1050 flywheel but I used a factory replacement clutch due to using a factory trans
 

iamtherealJayy

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Got the bell housing bolted up today finally and the engine cranks. Tomorrow I’m onto a fuel system. Won’t be fun since I used the lined an lines I should’ve just used fuel injection hose lol
 

Camar068

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10 yrs Air Force
did you put AN lines and hard line in the center? Once you get the hoses made it's easy from there if you used Russel.
 

iamtherealJayy

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I bought an line with the hard center on accident I didn’t have intentions of it I’m new to the ab line stuff. I just know it’s harder to make all the fittings go on, and I’ve got several fittings to do…
 

Elliot W

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You’re better off in the long run using an lines. Plus fuel injection hose is $8/foot. You still may need a little of the hose to connect at the sending unit and fuel rail (or at least I did).
 

iamtherealJayy

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I’ve got 30’ of an line, I planned on running the line from tank to intake since I’m going from passenger side tank to drivers side, plus the fuel rail is on drivers side as well
 

Elliot W

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I just mentioned it because I wasn't sure how to make up an AN fitting to the fuel rail (quick disconnect tip that can be converted to a barbed tip) and the sending unit (flared tip) without using fuel injection hosing as a connector. I'm not too familiar with AN hose but figured it meant AN fittings and I never found any AN fittings that connect to a quick disconnect or a barbed tip.
 

iamtherealJayy

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I’m just running the an hose shoved onto the sending unit with high pressure hose clamps to a filter along the frame rail to gm quick connects at the fuel rail
 

iamtherealJayy

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350, 350, 350
Just an update
Got the fuel system done and everything worked there except my fuel filter leaks, gotta figure that out. Cranked the truck and it fired right up. Blowing power steering fluid of course. I’m not positive how I want to go about doing power steering lines, any input?
 

iamtherealJayy

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1987, 1978, 1976
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V20, K10, K10
Engine Size
350, 350, 350
Got the electric fans wired up today for the most part didn’t have much daylight after work. I’m still trying to figure out how to make these power steering lines and I don’t know how to get the plug out of the passenger side head I can’t see it to see what I need to remove it
 

Camar068

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K10/LM7 5.3/4L60e/np208/3.73/32"
Engine Size
10 yrs Air Force
Just an update
Got the fuel system done and everything worked there except my fuel filter leaks, gotta figure that out. Cranked the truck and it fired right up. Blowing power steering fluid of course. I’m not positive how I want to go about doing power steering lines, any input?
haven't noticed your power steering system, but if it's stock like mine, I used the LS power steering pump. On the back of the tank I took the fitting out of the orginal pump and installed it on the LS pump. You can use your vehicles stock hoses.
 

iamtherealJayy

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V20, K10, K10
Engine Size
350, 350, 350
Got power steering done today and a throttle cable. Going to try and get the downpipes done up tomorrow so I can run the truck a little longer. I’m thinking about getting a stock 99-02 lower rad hose when I go get new plug wires(broke one taking off the manifolds)
 

iamtherealJayy

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Location
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Jacob
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1987, 1978, 1976
Truck Model
V20, K10, K10
Engine Size
350, 350, 350
Got the engine running coolant in it, still need to adjust the clutch, but I feel like there’s an issue with my idle, it doesn’t return to idle very fast. My tachometer doesn’t read right but I revved it for a video and it kinda held at that rpm until I bumped the throttle again. I have an adjustable throttle cable wnd it fully returns closed.
 

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