454 Big Block Chevy Build

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Rat77

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Welcome from Texas. Mines not as good looking as the others but, it's pretty fast and does burnouts. :burnout:

It's just a BBC 454 with intake, rv cam, LT hedders and a quadrajet on top. Idk what cam it is the po just said it was a rv cam. Nothing to special but, it's really fun to drive. :driver:

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appreciate the picture and replyThanks all that matters is “can it do a burnout” haha
 

Rat77

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Welcome from Texas. Mines not as good looking as the others but, it's pretty fast and does burnouts. :burnout:

It's just a BBC 454 with intake, rv cam, LT hedders and a quadrajet on top. Idk what cam it is the po just said it was a rv cam. Nothing to special but, it's really fun to drive. :driver:

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appreciate the picture and replyThanks all that matters is “can it do a burnout” haha
 

Rat77

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Here’s a stock crank, rods, block 454 I helped a good buddy of mine set up and put together.

trick flow aluminum 113cc heads, 22cc dome pistons, hydraulic roller cam 225/231 112lsa. Figured to be around the 9.7:1 compression area.

It’s in his 81 k10 and running with a decent built th350. Haven’t driven it much beings it is in primer but it turns his 35’s no problem at all. Goes in this weekend for paint actually.

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Super clean, I’m sure it’s a ripper!!! Appreciate the picture as well,I would like to see a before and after paint man
 

Rat77

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The problem is, there is a lot of different ways to get where you are trying to go. The answer to heads, pistons, and cam will really come down to what you are wanting to do with the truck and what condition it is in now. It looks like you at least have a block... looks like Mark IV? Did you get an entire rotating assembly and heads with it too? If so, what heads? What's your budget?

If you got a complete engine, and you are planning on just having a mild street/truck/towing type engine... I would suggest just getting the heads you have now rebuilt. Even basic iron aftermarket heads will run you $1,000/ea. I had my stock L29 heads completely redone with cleaning, new guides installed, guides clearanced to allow more valve lift, machined for positive lock viton seals, basic valve job, rotator eliminators installed and new springs/retainers installed and spring pressures checked for $600 total.

If the block is in good shape and doesn't need to be bored over, you can just keep your stock pistons and get a hone and new rings. If you need them bored, you can get the proper pistons to get a good compression ratio with the cylinder heads you have. Usually the older truck 454's will have really low compression. Bumping it up to 9-9.5:1 will really help the power and drivability.

Cam should be chosen based on the previous engine internal choices and the expected use case. Just call the cam company of choice and let them know what you have and what you expect to be doing with the truck. They will recommend a good cam for you.


Ok cool, yes MK IV, I do have stock heads,I forgot what exactly they are but I know they are stock. It was only the block, pistons, cranks, and heads.
I’m looking to drop around 5k more if necessary.

ok yes I do have stock heads, the guy said it was machined should I get it check out again?

I believe the block was already honed, a bored?it’s still stock bore 4 1/4.

for the old pistons does it matter what order I put them? The guy just handed them to me.

appreciate the help man, really shed some light for me. And thanks for your time too
 

Bextreme04

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Ok cool, yes MK IV, I do have stock heads,I forgot what exactly they are but I know they are stock. It was only the block, pistons, cranks, and heads.
I’m looking to drop around 5k more if necessary.

ok yes I do have stock heads, the guy said it was machined should I get it check out again?

I believe the block was already honed, a bored?it’s still stock bore 4 1/4.

for the old pistons does it matter what order I put them? The guy just handed them to me.

appreciate the help man, really shed some light for me. And thanks for your time too

There will be a casting number on top of the heads that will tell you what they are. The pistons should be attached to the rods still, and they should have a number stamped on them for where they go... it does matter if you are reusing the original stuff. If it was bored, then the original pistons wont work as it will be a 4.25" bore PLUS whatever it was bored too.. i.e bored .030 over will now have a 4.28" bore. If they just honed it, you can reuse what you have. I got a Gen VI 454 from a 1997 K2500 Suburban with 288,000 miles and had is cleaned and inspected. They had to bore it 0.020" to clean up the bores and then got new speedpro 0.020 pistons. The pistons were installed on the original rods and then the entire assembly with new harmonic balancer and OEM flywheel were balanced. The block was decked and then new bearings, gaskets, seals, water pump, pushrods, lifters, and timing set all came in to around $2200 out the door. I paid $600 for the heads to get fully rebuilt and then $140 for a custom regrind of my OEM roller cam.

Pics will help with a lot of this. Pics of the block, bores, mains, pistons, rods, whatever you have already.
 

82sbshortbed

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Ok cool, yes MK IV, I do have stock heads,I forgot what exactly they are but I know they are stock. It was only the block, pistons, cranks, and heads.
I’m looking to drop around 5k more if necessary.

ok yes I do have stock heads, the guy said it was machined should I get it check out again?

I believe the block was already honed, a bored?it’s still stock bore 4 1/4.

for the old pistons does it matter what order I put them? The guy just handed them to me.

appreciate the help man, really shed some light for me. And thanks for your time too


5k is gonna make for a nice daily driver!
 

Rat77

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I got the casting, number and a picture of the headers.ok I see, yea from what he told me , all I can remember is him saying “honed, and stock bores”. I don’t know if he wanted to get it bored and what not. But I’ll double check on that appreciate it.

that’s not bad 2200 I was thinking I would spend a little more but I like the sound of that haha

I can get you a pic of everything else tomorrow if that’s fine with you,I’m currently not home but if you don’t mind still helping out I can Fursure get those pics tomorrow

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Wumbo

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Peanut port heads. Good for low rpm torque, but not exactly performance oriented.

781, 049, and 820 castings are good oval port open chamber heads if you want factory iron. Aluminum heads are the way to go if you want to spend the money. Just stay away from the cheap chinese heads.

Maybe I missed it, but what kind of performance are you trying to get with your build? Stock, daily driver type those heads will do just fine.
 

Rat77

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Peanut port heads. Good for low rpm torque, but not exactly performance oriented.

781, 049, and 820 castings are good oval port open chamber heads if you want factory iron. Aluminum heads are the way to go if you want to spend the money. Just stay away from the cheap chinese heads.

Maybe I missed it, but what kind of performance are you trying to get with your build? Stock, daily driver type those heads will do just fine.


Appreciate the feed back,

what aluminum head would you recommend?

I want a daily driver, but something that would tear the streets up off of pump gas?

To be honest just want something that will beat these dodger charger with the 392s in them haha
 

Mark Jones

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Peanut port heads. Good for low rpm torque, but not exactly performance oriented.

781, 049, and 820 castings are good oval port open chamber heads if you want factory iron. Aluminum heads are the way to go if you want to spend the money. Just stay away from the cheap chinese heads.

Maybe I missed it, but what kind of performance are you trying to get with your build? Stock, daily driver type those heads will do just fine.


Never under estimate the peanut port head, 585 HP 467 with 9.3 compression 228 @ .050 hyd cam, stamped steel rockers, performer RPM intake. Example:
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And it looks like the set above have had work...................
 

Taylorb27

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Appreciate the feed back,

what aluminum head would you recommend?

I want a daily driver, but something that would tear the streets up off of pump gas?

To be honest just want something that will beat these dodger charger with the 392s in them haha

Idk what they have for budget oriented aluminum heads but I’d try to fit them in a budget. Aluminum heads are lighter but more importantly will allow you run a little higher compression on pump gas.
 

Rat77

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Location
Long Beach
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Nick
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Never under estimate the peanut port head, 585 HP 467 with 9.3 compression 228 @ .050 hyd cam, stamped steel rockers, performer RPM intake. Example:
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

And it looks like the set above have had work...................


Thanks for the video, do you how he’s pushing that much with the peanut ports?
 

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