350 tbi problem???

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RoryH19

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Back to the O2 sensor
Have you been able to find yours?
I don't see how the truck will run, or run well without one.
The computer will not be able to regulate the fuel/air mixture without reading the exhaust gases.
 

4WDKC

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Back to the O2 sensor
Have you been able to find yours?
I don't see how the truck will run, or run well without one.
The computer will not be able to regulate the fuel/air mixture without reading the exhaust gases.


these old systems are very dumb and when the o2 is disconnected it will show a value of perfect AFR even though it has no idea.
 

RoryH19

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I had similar issues with my TBI. In the end I changed the coolant temp sensor, EGR valve and O2 along with rebuilding the TBI. It helped a lot but these EFI's in my opinion are not much better than the quadrajet my 86 had.
 

gardeeno

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Hi guys. I used to have same problem and it showed up I had a bad egr valve. And i deleted it.
And really this obd1 systems are really dump.
 

JOHN MEADOWS

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If i unhook the tps and it goes to limp mode , how will i know its working or not? Will there be a change in how it runs?

On the o2 question , Yes i did find my o2 sensor and its hooked up.
 

JOHN MEADOWS

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My egr valve appears to be working, with the truck running and pressing the bottom of it ....seems to be
 

Zoomalot

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You can manually set the pin length on the IAC when first installing replacement?
Why is it sounding like IAC?
With the truck warmed -up and reasonably running ( disconnect IAC plug wires ) see if you still get a radical surge? if you
do it probably is not IAC.
 

4WDKC

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If i unhook the tps and it goes to limp mode , how will i know its working or not? Will there be a change in how it runs?

On the o2 question , Yes i did find my o2 sensor and its hooked up.

if you do it while its running you will notice the truck smooth out, if it does not it will rule it out from being the problem.
 

Billy

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My problem was the ECM ground. Check that. It's grounded with the AIC.
 

JOHN MEADOWS

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If i let run until warm it runs a little better. I have unhooked the iac while running but it didnt change the way it ran
 

JOHN MEADOWS

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Ill unplug the tps when i get home and check to see what it is doing.

Where is the ecm ground located at to check it?
 

4WDKC

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If i let run until warm it runs a little better. I have unhooked the iac while running but it didnt change the way it ran

it will only affect it from when the temp changes or you are driving, you may notice it die when putting in gear or coming to a stop.
 

JOHN MEADOWS

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When i got home I took it down the road and got it to operating temp. When I got back I unplugged the tps and it idled down a little and kinda ran worse, I then hooked it back up and it cleaned itself back up to running decent.

After that while running , I unplugged the IAC and nothing noticeable happened.

I did notice on while taking it down the road when I left off the gas to downshift to stop it died. It's never done that before.

I checked vacuum line to canister and it appeared to be ok. I did unplug it while running and nothing changed in way of running
 

GTP51

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If you unplugged the vac line to the canister which comes off the base of the TBI and nothing changed then Something weird is going on, because that line has full vacuum.
Can’t suggest anything for an OBD1 reader for you as no one could help me with mine down here in OZ. Everyone I called to help me tune it talked to me like I had two heads so had to figure it out for my self. But really that is a concern if you are basically disconnecting a line that has full vacuum and it’s making no difference to your engine. Maybe some of the more experience guys can chime in as I,m only a rookie at this.
 

JTWard

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OK, not to step on anyone's toes, OBD-1 is not a dumb system, it is just the first. Just like we have MS windows now, back in the eighties we used DOS. I have two trucks a 1990 Silverado 1500 and a 1988 K5 Blazer. Both have OBD-1. So, when you start the truck does the "Service Engine Soon" light even come on ? When you start the engine, the ECM or computer ( Which is on the right side just in back of the glove box.) It's silver square and it's about 3" X 15". But lets not go near it just yet. When you start the engine, the ECM takes reading from the coolant sensor, 2 wire sensor right behind the thermostat housing. That is the sensor that goes to the ECM and there is another, it is on the drivers side head right behind #1 spark plug, that goes to your gauge. With that and the signal from the O2 sensor, which if your truck is stock is in the 'Y' pipes just aft the exhaust manifolds. It needs to be hook up and working for the ECM to get a signal and the exhaust flow, and finally there is the IAC or Idle control Motor. To set the IAC, take it out and push the ' Pintal ' of the sensor back into the sensor till there is just about 1 " from the base of the motor and the very tip of the Pintal, Put a dab of silicon one the bottom treads so once tighten, it seals OK. It doesn't need any heavy tightening, it's aluminum and will strip easily. So now you have the 1.coolant sensor, 2 the oxygen sensor and the IAC idle control motor out, adjusted and your ready to go.

Did connect the negative terminal from the battery for 30 seconds and reconnect. Now start the engine see if the idle is stable and the 'Service Engine Soon' light should come on fro a 10 seconds and the go out. If it stays on the ECM has had a code set. Shut off the engine and use the paper clip and short out terminal A & B on ALDL connect under the dash and the get comfortable and turn the key to the on position. The service engine soon light will light up. It will flash 1 long flash and 2 fest times, thus you have a code 12. That is just the ECM saying hello. it will flash each code 3 times, and don't worry if you miss one it will go back to the first code 12 and start over. Write down what each code is and if you get them all, and the ECM is back to 12, shut off the ignition.

Now with the codes before you see what each code is coming from. If you don't have a code chart, just go online and you will find a OBD-1 listing. see what is in the code and that is you culprit. Between the blazer in my avatar and my pickup It took me a long, long time to find my problem. On my 1990 305 V8 we went to just about every sensor and nothing worked till we realized the only thing we hadn't changed was the ECM itself. got a Cardon rebuilt unit and installed it and that took care of the problem. Problem was a crack in it's motherboard.

On my 1988 Blazer this one was almost the one the broke the donkeys back. SES light kept coming on and coming and coming. If I had any hair I'd of pulled it all out. A technician from a Detroit GM dealership came to my aid, he said take off the distributor cap and the rotor and look at the ignition module. He said if it is white, take it out and throw it away. If it's red like a high performance module, take it out and throw it out. Go to a old time parts store or Chevrolet Dealership and get a AC Delco ignition module. Take some Acetone and wipe off the plate inside the distributor and open the packet of white heat insulator paste and apply it to the back of the ignition module. DON'T go overboard, The paste should be about the thickness of a loose-leaf page of paper, put 3 connectors on the module and put it back on, and only tighten it finger tight, then just a tad more so it snug. The 2 screws just hold it in place and have no other purpose. Did connect the battery for 30 seconds and reconnect it. I did and that was the last time I had a "Service Engine Soon" come on. The most important thing is to get AC Delco Parts. all the other crap is made in Mexico or Thailand Indonesia or. . . China. ALL the other stuff is such poor quality it a waste of your time to even try using them.

If you have any questions my name is Jim Ward.
 

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