350 Casting Numbers

[Marcus]

Here you go

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Okay thank you! Mine has the angled bolt holes.

 

[legopnuematic]

You can also note that a 153 tooth flexplate always uses the straight bolt pattern starter, and the 168 tooth flexplate uses a angle bolt pattern starter.

You learn something new everyday! I never put any thought into that as all my small blocks use the 168 tooth flexplates so I never really needed to figure that out.

 

[Rusty Nail]

AC Delco filter #1218.
That's the one you want...

 

[arbea]

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don't forget to take out the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft.

 

[MikeB]

The "010" block is probably the most common 4-inch bore block Chevy ever made. One of David Vizard's books says it was used for 68-79 350s and for high-performance 68-69 327s. Some had 4-bolt mains, other 2-bolt. There were something like nine other casting numbers for 68-79 350 blocks.

You can use any diameter vibration damper, although 8-inch was used for high performance and probably truck engines. Doesn't matter which flywheel or flexplate you use with either size damper, since the engines were internally balanced until 1986. The exception would be the 400 small block.

 

[Marcus]

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don't forget to take out the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft.

What size bolt do y’all use for this? Or what kind of tool other than a socket or the actual puller. I don’t have a puller so have to do it the poor boy way

 

[CoggedBelt75]

We used to use grease packed in the hole & a bolt way back when. Just don't get carried away with the hammer. This guy has a cleaner idea, no matter how silly it seems.

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[MikeB]

I can't see why you need to remove it to bolt on a flexplate. ???

 

[CoggedBelt75]

I haven’t messed with a standard since the late 80’s so someone correct me if I’m wrong. Doesn’t the hub actually fill the space the the bearing is occupying to the point where it’s an interference? If so, and the bearing is still in place, then the converter won’t be able to be fully seated. My fuzzy opinion FWIW

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[Bennyt]

I haven’t messed with a standard since the late 80’s so someone correct me if I’m wrong. Doesn’t the hub actually fill the space the the bearing is occupying to the point where it’s an interference? If so, and the bearing is still in place, then the converter won’t be able to be fully seated. My fuzzy opinion FWIW

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May or may not depending on how long it is or if it was fully seated. But I agree with you and I would remove it. I usually use a slide hammer. Takes more time to set-up the tool, clean it and put it away then it does to remove it. Less than 5 minutes. I don't recall if I ever used the packed grease method but I remember my HS shop teacher teaching us that way.

 

[Bennyt]

The engine was made in 1974 but put into a 1975 vehicle. The amount of interchangeable parts is amazing don't really need an exact model and year, but if you need parts ask for a 1975 full size Chevy car then. If I'm not mistaken Full size is in regards to a cars such as Caprice, Bel Air and such. I'm not sure if they made Police model Squares.

My '89 GMC Jimmy V1500 was a police vehicle. Always confused people as it had single headlights, steel wheels, and other weird options. I bought it off the Sheriffs dept when they retired it at 99,000 miles. Had about 100 receipts in the glove box for the speedometer being verified for accuracy.

 

[Marcus]

I can't see why you need to remove it to bolt on a flexplate. ???

I had to remove it so my torque converter will work properly. It had a 4 speed behind it in the jimmy that it was in. I’m putting it in an automatic truck so it had to be removed.