It comes with free jackstands!
The dual front shocks are old crappy OEM shocks with 80's technology.
These work great $106 ON SALE NOW from $166:
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C55MO2/
They fit on the Right hand LOWER shock mounts, from the picture you posted above.
The taller riveted shock mount can be removed from the upper frame, after you install these.
If you jack up the front end as high as possible, you can "just bolt them up".
These fit the rear $103:
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C55MOW/
Both sets are very affordable and work great!
You do not need to use quad shocks when using modern shock technology.
Pull the hubs and make certain the fine threads and inner wheel bearing seals are not rotten.
The 2 peice lock screws get ruined in the hub because people do not use the proper lock ring socket with a proper torque wrench.
If memory serves me correctly, they torque at 195 ft/lbs. Threads must be very good where the races get torqued.
If you find crumbs of metal in there, it is fine threads contaminating your bearings from the hub and these 2 lock nut/washers.
One MUST have a pin and one will not. If the pin is busted off, it is in your bearings somewhere.
Without the pin on one of the locking nuts, the wheels can fall off.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X1X5RM/
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If the seals have cut grooves into the inner bearing race shaft or sealing area on the hub, you will want to replace the axle ends and the C/V joints at the same time. It is a lot of work. Did both sides in -20 weather. Bent or damaged brake plate should be replaced too. If you go balls deep into this system, try to replace as much as possble while you are in there. Do NOT use the stoopid inner axle tubing water seals they sell. They hold moisture and cause rust inside the axle shaft tubing. Although they sound like a great idea, they are a football bat and will ruin your axle case bearings inside the axle tubes. The tubing needs to breath to dry out.
This Yukon kit has the quality rubber seals and the plastic washer included. I paid $171.00 each, five years ago. It is on sale now for $154, vs $189 normal pricing.
If you need 2 of them you had better act fast before the sale ends. Never seen them this cheap.
The Yukon quality is excellent on these hubs.
The machine work was flawless.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078U95AG/
The OTC tool with the correct ball joint adaptors works great. If you want the tool part numbers, let me know.
Installing new c/v joints, ball joints and saving the axle ends with new hubs and seals is very rewarding.
Do NOT forget the plastic washer and new rubber gasket seals. The plastic washer and neoprene gasket is the first 2 items installed behind the inner most bearing, near the brake plate.
It is the left and middle washer in the Yukon picture.
Had a tough time finding new ones. Without the plastic washer spacers, your front end will get ruined.
Yukon saved the day offering the kit.
The Mile Marker locks work great. Zero issues after 5 years. $250 cheaper than Warn?
Have the silicone o-rings you want for the hub locks gasket mod.
Email me for a set and I'll mail a pair to you.
Bought 100 of them for $10.
Never had a leak in the MM locks using the o-ring mod.
The work box body was very expensive in the day. It's the exact same body I used on the Ranch Welding.
They were used for highway road safety service trucks, for semi-truck mobile mechanics.
The rear bumper bench vice, (if it is an old school USA HD version Columbia), is probably worth a bundle.
The bucket seats are not stock. Very nice find.
I'll bet you can re-sell the box, blasted and painted with new door latches/locks, for triple whatever you paid for the truck.
Hope this helps.
