2 or 4 inch lift kit

[Brysonsproject]

I'm thinking of lifting my 1978 k20. I think the 4 inch would look the best but a 2 inch would be okay. I want to avoid having to mess with the driveshafts, so I'm wondering if I'll have to get longer driveshafts with the 4 inch lift or if I can just run the stock ones. Also probably going to go with Tuff Country, which I've heard is pretty accurate to their advertised lift height? Thanks.

 

[Craig 85]

Here' my old '79 K15. I 3/4 ton axle swapped it and ran Tuff Country EZ Ride 4" front springs. I also used the Off Road Design Sway Bar Disconnect kit to prevent any bind in the front suspension. I ran a 4" block in the rear. Tires were 33x12.50x16.5's (32.8"). I did not have to do anything with my drive shafts. I can say 30 years ago I helped a friend lift his '76 K20. He had a NP-203 transfer case and with a 4" lift he didn't need to lengthen either drive shaft.

That '79 truck was the best riding 4WD Square Body I've had.

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[brooksman9]

Good luck actually getting anything from them. Canceled my order after 6 weeks and 3 different ship dates. Went with a 2.5” Skyjacker down from a 4” Rough Country.

 

[Brysonsproject]

Good to know thanks!

 

[brooksman9]

I have a thread in the under construction section. My 86 K10. I have pics of the 4" amd 2.5" for comparison

 

[Grit dog]

4” doesn’t require any driveshaft mods.
I’m at 5” front and haven’t tested 4wd but it looks like it’s close to needing the front ds lengthened. Would for sure if I relocated the axle forward. (Common mod for tire clearance with the narrow fender openings on these trucks.)

 

[Brysonsproject]

Here' my old '79 K15. I 3/4 ton axle swapped it and ran Tuff Country EZ Ride 4" front springs. I also used the Off Road Design Sway Bar Disconnect kit to prevent any bind in the front suspension. I ran a 4" block in the rear. Tires were 33x12.50x16.5's (32.8"). I did not have to do anything with my drive shafts. I can say 30 years ago I helped a friend lift his '76 K20. He had a NP-203 transfer case and with a 4" lift he didn't need to lengthen either drive shaft.

That '79 truck was the best riding 4WD Square Body I've had.

If I end up taking the truck off road in the future, could it be a good idea to put a 1 inch spacer in the front and rear driveshafts or could that have any negative affects?

 

[Conejo_K10]

I went with a 3" lift and I'm considering a 1" body lift. I use it for hauling and towing so I didn't want it too high.
At 4"+ longer brake lines, shocks and compatible steering arm (to correct the steering geometry) are often needed.

 

[59840Surfer]

That orange K5 as my avatar is up 2" in the front with new springs and 2" spacers in the back.

Below, there is about 1300 lbs tongue weight on the hitch from a load of firewood in the trailer - so it looks a little down in the back.

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The 2" spacers in the back came with an instruction sheet that was 100% wrong in positioning the tapered adapters. I'm not going to post the company name as they were very abusive to me over the phone and threatened me with a lawsuit if I mentioned their name in a negative way on the internet.

They stated in the installation booklet that the tapered shim has to be installed with the thick end rearward, away from the engine.

That was wrong because their way pointed the pinion up toward the transfer case, and I called them to ask if they knew it --- then they went off on me.

So buyer beware!

FWIW --- the driveshaft u-joint must have the same angle as the transfer case output u-joint or there'll be fuzzy mirrors and some wrapping up of the driveline when you come off a stop.

Acceleration - if you apply enough torque - will try to wind up the springs and that will point the pinion even higher ... and if you hit the brakes hard, it tries to pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case.

I Googled a lot of sites and they all state that the angles must be the same +/- a degree or two --- but not much deviation is allowed!

I bought a Klein 035DAG to make sure that I was getting the angles correct.

You must be registered for see images attach

Under $30.00 on Amazon. You NEED THIS TOOL (say that 10 times)

The differential casting has a fin that runs parallel to the pinion shaft, so it's a good place to start when you shoot the other angle at the transfer case output slider.

 

[Joe Voter]

Two.

 

[Dixie Pride]

Did my 85K20 with an 8 foot bed 39 years ago with 4" blocks in rear 4" leaf springs in front with 1.5 blocks,pinned and welded to give it a negative rake in front.No drive shaft mods and only changed my universal joints twice in all the years 66K miles on it I also have 3" body lift & cutout fender flares.I thought about dropping my process 205 transfer case a little but with the long bed the drive shaft angle looked good.I have 44" swampers on it and always had at least 40" tires.Sunday driver no rain or mud anymore.It rides like a buckboard.Consider not using blocks in the rear use leaf springs for your lift to help with any axle wrap.The higher you go the more you mess up a good riding truck.

 

[SquareRoot]

That orange K5 as my avatar is up 2" in the front with new springs and 2" spacers in the back.

Below, there is about 1300 lbs tongue weight on the hitch from a load of firewood in the trailer - so it looks a little down in the back.

You must be registered for see images attach

The 2" spacers in the back came with an instruction sheet that was 100% wrong in positioning the tapered adapters. I'm not going to post the company name as they were very abusive to me over the phone and threatened me with a lawsuit if I mentioned their name in a negative way on the internet.

They stated in the installation booklet that the tapered shim has to be installed with the thick end rearward, away from the engine.

That was wrong because their way pointed the pinion up toward the transfer case, and I called them to ask if they knew it --- then they went off on me.

So buyer beware!

FWIW --- the driveshaft u-joint must have the same angle as the transfer case output u-joint or there'll be fuzzy mirrors and some wrapping up of the driveline when you come off a stop.

Acceleration - if you apply enough torque - will try to wind up the springs and that will point the pinion even higher ... and if you hit the brakes hard, it tries to pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case.

I Googled a lot of sites and they all state that the angles must be the same +/- a degree or two --- but not much deviation is allowed!

I bought a Klein 035DAG to make sure that I was getting the angles correct.

You must be registered for see images attach

Under $30.00 on Amazon. You NEED THIS TOOL (say that 10 times)

The differential casting has a fin that runs parallel to the pinion shaft, so it's a good place to start when you shoot the other angle at the transfer case output slider.

Send me the instruction sheet. If what you're saying is legit, I'll happily bash them. It's called accountability for the products they sell. Lawsuit, lol, bring it on.

 

[SquareRoot]

Two.

Three.

 

[59840Surfer]

Send me the instruction sheet. If what you're saying is legit, I'll happily bash them. It's called accountability for the products they sell. Lawsuit, lol, bring it on.

I saw that instruction sheet just recently --- and I'm sure it's in the garage --- where it's now -1°F --- so you KNOW i'm not gonna go out there until I get some better thermal numbers later on.

 

[SquareRoot]

I saw that instruction sheet just recently --- and I'm sure it's in the garage --- where it's now -1°F --- so you KNOW i'm not gonna go out there until I get some better thermal numbers later on.

Understood. BTW, it's 65 here at the moment.