2 in body lift for 35s?

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bucket

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Unless you have an unhealthy motor, the rpm's won't hurt it. It's actually not that high at all, it's just that everyone is now used to running really low rpm since economy has been the focus for decades.
 

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Honestly, your engines not even making peak power then. Typically, as far as my knowledge extends, for torque itll peak around or before that, but horsepower wise youll keep making power to 4, maybe even 5 rpms

Correct me if im wrong guys, i might just be talking out of my ass here
 

77 K20

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With my truck I'm running around 3,000 RPM at 65 mph which is the speed limit on most 2 lane highways around me. When taking passes and pulling a trailer I often have to downshift into 2nd and take them at 45 mph running 4000 RPM or so.

The truck is fine with it.
 

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Honestly, your engines not even making peak power then. Typically, as far as my knowledge extends, for torque itll peak around or before that, but horsepower wise youll keep making power to 4, maybe even 5 rpms

Correct me if im wrong guys, i might just be talking out of my ass here

Ya mine doesn't really get up and go until 2800 RPM @3000 she starts to take off! lol

As for the body lift IMO anything higher then 1" looks silly because it exposes a gap between the front bumper and the valance. also the rear bumper starts to look like its dragging. And the tanks become very noticeable.

IMO body lifts should be avoided but I could live with 1"

If you want to run 35s I would do a 4" suspension lift with a 1" body lift. This will let you clear the 35s unless you get really crazy articulating it off road! I say this for the best drive line angles.

If your not too worried about the angles then do a 6" suspension lift and be done.

3:73s 35s and an SM 465 will work very well.
 

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If you want an OD run 33s with your 3.73s and an NV4500.
 

87silveradok20

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Ya mine doesn't really get up and go until 2800 RPM @3000 she starts to take off! lol

As for the body lift IMO anything higher then 1" looks silly because it exposes a gap between the front bumper and the valance. also the rear bumper starts to look like its dragging. And the tanks become very noticeable.

IMO body lifts should be avoided but I could live with 1"

If you want to run 35s I would do a 4" suspension lift with a 1" body lift. This will let you clear the 35s unless you get really crazy articulating it off road! I say this for the best drive line angles.

If your not too worried about the angles then do a 6" suspension lift and be done.

3:73s 35s and an SM 465 will work very well.


I have a two inch and there isnt really a gap at the front bumper. It sits even with the lip under the grille.
 

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tranny swaps look hard to me...but I know you all have a lot more experience with that than I do....would a diesel swap lower rpms? just curious. my 2500HD when I had it I think had 3.73 and ran 315/70/17 tires (34.8) while I did tune it down the road I am fairly certain when stock the duramax never really ran at too high of an RPM unless I wanted to get on it obviously. IT also had and OD Allison so Im not sure
 

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Its all about the transmission not the engine. Duramax diesels have an OD tranny. That's what lets you keep the RPMs down.

The SM465 with 35" tires with 3:73 gearing will work fine because you always will have the granny low to get moving and then the 35s will lower the final gearing to allow you to cruise along comfortably at higher speeds.

You could always swap in an NV4500 but then you would probably always being cruising at 75-80mph to keep the RPMs up enough with the 35s.
 

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I agree with ogre 1" max on the body lift. a diesel will not change your rpm it will be the same and diesel don't like high rpm. get a gear vendors overdrive if you want OD. highdesertranger
 

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You couldn't clear 35" bicycle tires with a 2" body lift. I have a 4" body lift running 33x12.50 and they rub every time I turn a corner, and the stupid fuel tank hangs out the bottom and looks dumb. I have the same drivetrain set up as you and I don't have a problem running Rpms too high cruising down the highway. You could re gear, but your setting on a damn good gear ratio, especially if your wanting larger tires.


Sent from an old rotary telephone.
 

Frankenchevy

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You couldn't clear 35" bicycle tires with a 2" body lift. I have a 4" body lift running 33x12.50 and they rub every time I turn a corner, and the stupid fuel tank hangs out the bottom and looks dumb. I have the same drivetrain set up as you and I don't have a problem running Rpms too high cruising down the highway. You could re gear, but your setting on a damn good gear ratio, especially if your wanting larger tires.


Sent from an old rotary telephone.
not necessarily true. I have zero lift with 33s and I couldn't get them to rub it I tried.

edit: oops, didn't realize how old this thread is.
 

Honky Kong jr

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not necessarily true. I have zero lift with 33s and I couldn't get them to rub it I tried.

edit: oops, didn't realize how old this thread is.
Also your on tons it don’t count.
 

Frankenchevy

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Also your on tons it don’t count.

I was curious about this. If I clear 33 with no lift, I'm thinking when I do shackle flip and gain 4 inches it'll look weird on 35s. I wasn't wanting 37s but just might have to justify them to fill the wheel arch back up.

just don't want it to end up looking like my buddies truck, lol:

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Frankenchevy

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I need to ask him if he has a profile here. you can find all kinds of pictures of his truck if you google "canthaulhayinajk"
 

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