1987 Chevy V10 steering wander

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Grit dog

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Location
Auburn, Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
The caster can be adjusted as well but it is an extreme pain in the arse! You have the break the wheel end of the axle all the way down to the knuckle and install shims between the spindle and knuckle. I have replaced ball joints on 10 bolts and Dana 44's and have seen some of these shims in years past. I have not tried to source any of these shims but I believe that I have some stashed away somewhere. Maybe I'll find them in the kitchen junk drawer...

HS
Camber you mean?
Generally not needed to ever adjust on a straight axle.
Toe and caster, assuming components are all good/tight/not too tight, are the 2 primary causes/solutions to twitchy or wandering steering.
Generally 5deg or greater positive caster is what’s required or recommended.
Toe, never toe out. Zero toe or slight toe in for stable steering.
 

Strick

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Nov 25, 2020
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Dunn, NC
First Name
Harold
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
C20 Crew
Engine Size
350
Camber you mean?
Generally not needed to ever adjust on a straight axle.
Toe and caster, assuming components are all good/tight/not too tight, are the 2 primary causes/solutions to twitchy or wandering steering.
Generally 5deg or greater positive caster is what’s required or recommended.
Toe, never toe out. Zero toe or slight toe in for stable steering.

Camber you mean?
Generally not needed to ever adjust on a straight axle.
Toe and caster, assuming components are all good/tight/not too tight, are the 2 primary causes/solutions to twitchy or wandering steering.
Generally 5deg or greater positive caster is what’s required or recommended.
Toe, never toe out. Zero toe or slight toe in for stable steering.
@idahovette beat you to it. I should have misspelled AXLE to get @SquareRoot involved too!
 

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