1987 C30 Cliff Diver

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Georgeb

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I've tried to push down on the exhaust valve but its not budging....my next thought is to put a wire around it in the groove so it doesn't fall down then try breaking it loose with some hammer work.

What does the people here say about that thought?

tks

If it was me I would reinstall the spring and retainer. then work to tap it loose.
 

Maknwine

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Looks like I am going to have to pull the pass side head off. Tried tapping on the valve stem with a brass hammer and didn't move it much if any.

Hate to pull all that off with another K5 project going on but don't have a choice.

Exhaust manifolds don't look like they've been off in a LOOOOOOONGGGG time so that will be a treat d'jour.

Noticed a drivers side freeze plug is going to have to come out as well....couldn't have lucked out on that being the pass side with the head off not so bad but .......:doublepuke:
 

Maknwine

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I'M the first one to complain about forum threads being left unresolved....so my apologies. After 5 years of life with kids and jobs and everything else, I finally pulled the head off.
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Maknwine

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and the cylinder wall
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Maknwine

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The exhaust valve that dropped looks like nothing happened to it and the push rod too. The valve gets stuck at a point in the valve guide.
No one procrastinates wrenching more than me and this is the result kids....dont be like me.
 

Maknwine

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Anyone ever try smoothing out some wall "rash" like that and put it back together with positive results?
 

85 Squarebody76

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Anyone ever try smoothing out some wall "rash" like that and put it back together with positive results?
Might try by putting piston at BDC and using a hone but if they are too deep it's noit likely you will restore the compression on that on without a bore job..
 

Bextreme04

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Anyone ever try smoothing out some wall "rash" like that and put it back together with positive results?
That is definitely not going to buff out. That hard of a hit to the top of the piston could have caused a bent rod as well. If the motor turs over I suggest using a dial gauge to see if that one piston sits further in hole at TDC than the rest.
 

Maknwine

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That is definitely not going to buff out. That hard of a hit to the top of the piston could have caused a bent rod as well. If the motor turs over I suggest using a dial gauge to see if that one piston sits further in hole at TDC than the rest.
"Buff out"...that struck me funny!
I dont know history of truck except it ran perfect for about 900 miles. You can see the piston is marked .030. I believe based on the head gasket that coolant flow was not great with the amount of crud caked up on the gasket on that cylinder area. Who knows what other issues I may have with it. I haven't checked numbers to see if this motor is original to the truck If I did I've since forgot. At this point I'm thinking a long block for $2K is going to be the best route for me. If motor is original, maybe I should keep it.

Thanks for replies.Tom
 

Bextreme04

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"Buff out"...that struck me funny!
I dont know history of truck except it ran perfect for about 900 miles. You can see the piston is marked .030. I believe based on the head gasket that coolant flow was not great with the amount of crud caked up on the gasket on that cylinder area. Who knows what other issues I may have with it. I haven't checked numbers to see if this motor is original to the truck If I did I've since forgot. At this point I'm thinking a long block for $2K is going to be the best route for me. If motor is original, maybe I should keep it.

Thanks for replies.Tom
Yeah, I just had one rebuilt last year. With machining and new parts I was right in that $1500 range, so if you can get an assembled long block for $2k and you are short on time or knowledge to assemble one yourself... it's probably worthwhile.
 

Maknwine

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I'm very short of knowledge
 

SquareRoot

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J
Anyone ever try smoothing out some wall "rash" like that and put it back together with positive results?
JB Weld.....................................................................................................lol.
 

Maknwine

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Got around to pulling the motor a few weekends ago. Have been looking around for best place to get a crate motor for the truck.
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Maknwine

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After initial pressure wash....
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Maknwine

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In case anyone ever has a lame brain idea to remove engine not on concrete with a picker, OSB on the bottom and 1/2" plywood on top. The wheels under engine on the picker shot right through the OSB. Once I get them jacked up and plywood on top, it came right out pretty easily. Lesson Learnt!!
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