1985 Monte Carlo SS

[ctandc]

Nice. I've owned enough G-Bodys over the years I've lost count.

The 200R4 CAN be built to withstand plenty of power - and from the factory the ONLY difference between a true Monte Carlo SS 200R4 and a GN was the torque converter and valvebody. Just find a GN thread where they make them live behind 600HP turbo 3.8s and replace / update the hard parts they recommend.

For the wheels - are you talking about the mesh GTA / Trans Am style wheels? I LOVE those things on a G-Body. Keep in mind you'll need (4) FRONT wheels for your SS because of back spacing. The factory GTA wheels have different back spacing front vs rear.

The REAR GTA wheels will not fit the front of your SS - they hit the tie rod. The REAR GTA wheels will fit on the rear of your Monte (depending on tire size) but look weird because of the different backspacing - you can add spacers.

The FRONT GTA wheels will fit your SS (in any position) with zero issues.

You can also buy new replicas and order (4) front. I know a friend did this for his SS that he sold a while back. Pretty sure he ordered (4) new front GTA Reproduction wheels from Summit for around $150 each.

You can also swap in a hollow front 36mm swaybar from a 3rd gen F-Body (IROC / Trans AM w/ WS6 suspension) it's a TON lighter than the factory SS bar and really does make a difference in handling.

 

[Crispy]

Thanks for the tidbits on the trans and the aftermarket wheels. I'm gonna have to look them up.

I am talking about the mesh GTA wheels. I know I would have to run spacers if use an oem front/rear F body set up, which is fine with me. I'm running spacers on my 99 TA without issue.

I'm gonna have work some overtime, this is about to get a little expensive lol.

 

[ctandc]

Thanks for the tidbits on the trans and the aftermarket wheels. I'm gonna have to look them up.

I am talking about the mesh GTA wheels. I know I would have to run spacers if use an oem front/rear F body set up, which is fine with me. I'm running spacers on my 99 TA without issue.

I'm gonna have work some overtime, this is about to get a little expensive lol.

Yeah - finding GTA wheels that aren't beat to crap is getting harder. I'm thinking about doing a 3rd gen F-body after the 84 GMC is done (I've owned a few of 'em - still can't believe the newest one is 28 years old jeez) a buddy of mine bought a mid 80s Firebird for $500 - because it had nice GTA wheels. It was a ragged out V6 car with 100lbs of Bondo. But the wheels were mint and the tires were new. In fact the guy told him "Buy the wheels and tires for $500 and the car comes with them for free."

 

[DoubleDingo]

I saw the other day that there is a Monte down the street from me. I have always liked them, but never had one.

Great find, can't wait to see it in running condition.

 

[Rusty Nail]

I aint tryna mess up your thread there but posting pics here is way easier than doin it in a conversation. Ill delete em later, whatever - IDC.

NEW Belltech spindles:

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200-4r dust cover in box packed by USPS worker: i'll put it in the mail tomorrow, Thursday.

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[Rusty Nail]

Belltech spindle owner's manual

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[Rusty Nail]

That's the whole manual..

Hope this helps!

I dont remember what I give for em but it was more than $100 and they are HEAVY. You can see they are new. Loooong time ago.

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Only a 5/94 date - no part number. unless it's. 2100
Must be 2100...it's on every page

 

[Crispy]

You dont have to delete anything @Rusty Nail , thanks for posting up. Those spindles are oem style that retain the stock hub bearing. I was thinking about going to a later model S10 regular spindle and lowering springs in order to run twin piston F body brakes. Jury is still out on that. I wanna drive this thing first before i sink more money and time into it. If they are still around when Im ready to tackle suspension and steering I'll give you a shout. Weight isnt a problem, I have a UPS account haha.

Thanks for gettin the cover out to me so quick!

 

[Rusty Nail]

No problem man. Happy I can help.

Yes for sure those spindles were direct bolt-in replacements requiring no other changes, yielding a two inch drop. I used Performance Friction pads and that mother f- would stop on a dime. At that time I had a fresh ASE brakes, suspension, and steering cert...and good brake jobs are still kind of my thing.

No reason to upgrade them.

For what it's worth I later was sorry I never installed a new "caliper hardware kit" and one effing caliper.bolt.BUSHING! failed and it later cost me a rotor.....it was a $0.25 part. F.Y.I.

If you don't spend $200 on the drum brakes youre doin it wrong. They were aluminum too. pretty sure but I dont reckon the core support was...don't know why I thought that.