1985 Chevy suburban four-speed manual what LS engine should I use?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

thecrow71

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2023
Posts
56
Reaction score
35
Location
america
First Name
terry
Truck Year
85
Truck Model
k20
Engine Size
5.7 350
I have a 1985 Chevy suburban with the four-speed manual and transfer case which I plan on keeping and rebuilding. I want to know what LS engine or what engine would be good to put back in. I do light off roading and might haul an RV with it. I’m not really a gearhead, but I’m learning stuff as I go or is there another other engine out there I should use. Any advice would be appreciated. I’m sure you’ll have some questions and hopefully I can find the answers for you. Thank you.
 

HotWheelsBurban

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2023
Posts
2,411
Reaction score
5,687
Location
Houston, Texas
First Name
Carol
Truck Year
1990
Truck Model
R2500 Suburban
Engine Size
350
With a carbed 350(or 400, 454, any Chevy motor in the small or big block families)if your fuel pump goes out, it's an easy fix cause it's on the side of the engine and every parts store has them. I've replaced it on the side of I-45 on the way to Dallas/Fort Worth, at night. Done a few in the driveway too.
An inline electric fuel pump on these engines is a little harder, but it's usually mounted on the frame, so it's just getting under the truck and trying not to get a face full of gas.
LS platform swap usually involves an in tank pump. On an OBS Suburban that is NOT fun at all! On a square body Burb it wouldn't be either. That tank is 40 gallons, and the pump almost never dies when the tank is low. Ony OBS Burb last year, we'd filled up 3 days before, and used less than 10 gallons. Got ~25 gallons out by siphon, ran out of buckets to put it in. So still at least 10 gallons in the tank....it took 2 of us, all 4 hands and 2 floor jacks, to move that tank! A transmission jack attachment would have helped but we didn't have one.
 

thecrow71

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2023
Posts
56
Reaction score
35
Location
america
First Name
terry
Truck Year
85
Truck Model
k20
Engine Size
5.7 350
Thank you so a lot of people are telling me feel injected is the way to go, but I sort of like the old-school way to and like you say you can fix on the fly most of the time, so how much horsepower do you think I need for what I would be doing
 

yevgenievich

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Posts
4,819
Reaction score
3,400
Location
Place
First Name
Name
Truck Year
Year
Truck Model
Model
Engine Size
Size
My solution for failed intank fuel pump is inline pump and some fuel injection hose with hose clamps in the bag with tools. In majority of fuel pump failure modes of intank fuel pump, an inline pump placed at the fuel filter location will pull enough fuel to get somewhere reasonable to get intank pump replaced. Had a failed intank pump on 88 tbi truck a while back, 20 minutes with wire and some hand tools got me inline fuel pump installed and back on the road. Then it took me a month before I had time to fix it as we were moving and I needed the truck to keep hauling things.

If going ls in a burb, I would always recommend 6.0l over smaller ls versions.
 

Hunter79764

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2021
Posts
344
Reaction score
531
Location
Grand Prairie, TX
First Name
Shawn
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
Suburban V20
Engine Size
350
I'd say a 4.8 would leave you underwhelmed for the work, a 5.3 would be a nice pick-up from the stock engine, and a 6.0 would give it good feel but start to impact MPG's if that is a concern, although I don't think any of those would get you lower than stock MPG's. As far as ease of fixing and parts availability, I think the scales are tipping towards the LS stuff. It's getting harder to find SBC stuff in stock, and even harder to find people who can work on it. LS parts benefit from the 50 years of the SBC plus computer design and modern engineering. When you get rid of the EVAP system and some of the other stuff, you are left with a very solid and reliable platform that can generally notify you of an issue before you would generally know it yourself, often diagnose itself, and is generally easier to repair if you are coming at it from a blank slate. 90% of anything you have to do that doesn't involve internal repair can be done with an 8mm, 10mm, and 15mm socket, a screwdriver, and a pair of pliers. On top of that, gaskets are generally reusable with no sealant needed. If I have the choice of replacing an intake on an SBC vs an LS, there's no question which is easier.
Yes, EFI pumps suck to replace, but put a good one in the tank and wire it up correctly and you shouldn't have to mess with it in the next decade or so, even with heavy use. It's one of those things that a mechanical fuel pump is easier to change, but you are going to have to do it more often. And if you are super worried about it, make an access plate over the sending unit, then you can change it out whenever you need just by pulling back the carpet.
 

thecrow71

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2023
Posts
56
Reaction score
35
Location
america
First Name
terry
Truck Year
85
Truck Model
k20
Engine Size
5.7 350
Thanks for your help still debating on which way to go, I have a little bit of money to play with.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,183
Posts
951,011
Members
36,307
Latest member
Chad Sugg
Top