Well there is a lot of work left to do before my truck can be road worthy, but the goal this weekend was just to fire it up for the first time. Big old fail.
Got the fuel system finished and also plumbed the tranny cooler (don’t sound like big accomplishments but whew I think they are), and tried to start the truck.
First thing I noticed weird is that when I turn the key on the fuel pump doesn’t prime for 3 seconds like it should. Tried starting it and turns out it doesn’t get power at all, and I think actually all the pink wires aren’t getting power with key on. Using a DIY standalone kit from BP automotive and it has provisions for AC and electric fans that I’m not currently using. Thinking that could be my problem.
Also broke my fuel switching valve and then ordered the wrong one [emoji58]. Got a good pollak valve but I need a single wire solenoid type valve because I don’t want to rewire everything to use the pollak valve so I bypassed the valve and hooked up to one tank right now. Got a single wire valve coming.
PS if anyone else is using a Walbro inline pump BE CAREFUL when tightening the ground and power studs. They break easily, don’t ask me how I know.
To do list before **** can be road worthy:
-Get running
-Fab tranny crossmember
-Hook up exhaust headers to existing dual exhaust - cutting ends off the headers and welding in O2 bungs
-Hookup Dakota Digital speedo cable 8k signal generator and converter box that converts to 128k for VSS
-Finish filling tranny with atf
-Fill transfer case with atf
-Bolt seat down
-Bolt seatbelts in
-Get new windshield
-Hook up lokar shift linkage
-New tires to replace the dryrotted bfgs- thinking of either going with 33x12.5” toyo ATs on the stock wheels or 33x12.5” Nitto Ridge Grapplers on Black cragar wheels. About the same price ironically for toyos from Les Schwab with no wheels vs. Nittos from custom offsets with new wheels
-Alignment
-Drill and tap fitting for steam line
-install accessories
-figure out power steering line situation: I bought a high pressure line and a return for a 2003 Tahoe but the pressure line fitting is the wrong thread. Going to try a ‘79 k20 line
-Find a new damn rag joint. Bought a jeep Xj shaft but apparently I either bought the only Cj shaft that doesn’t fit on a square steering box or my steering box is a freak. Also bought a new rag joint but **** doesn’t fit
Not critical to get on the road but probably should do at some point:
-Check brakes
-Check diffs fluids
-Modify tcase shifter - right now binding up for some reason
-Install LED jeep JK headlights and wire to use relays
-Install new vent window gaskets and window rubber stuff
-Wire in a secret ignition cutoff switch. My insurance won’t let me get any coverage on the truck so I figure it would be a cheap insurance policy to protect my $6k investment into this junk
-Install a late model auto dimming compass mirror
-Install Cruise control from late model
Damn that’s a lot. Haven’t put a list together before and I’m sure I’m forgetting some things. I also have a crapload of duplicate parts I need to get rid of. If you need something for an LS swap let me know I have a bunch of random stuff
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