Well, I finally found the whistler. It was a bad u-joint at the slip-joint part of the drive shaft. Replaced it, and no more whistling and no more vibration.
Both, It only happens after 3rd gear, and when cruising at 15-30mph. If I accelerate it goes away, and if I let off the pedal it goes away. Only happens a cruising with the pedal slightly depressed
I think those are factory equipment codes, usually in the glove box. If you look them up, you'll know what size engine, transmission, axle ratio, ac/non ac, etc.
My truck started doing this weird whistling noise. I only happens when I'm driving down the street between 15-30 mph, doesn't happen when idling in park when revving the engine. I've checked the vacuum lines, carburetor, belts, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Warn used to make an Enforcer winch bumper back in the 90's, that I've been searching for, for a while now for my truck. They are discontinued, but I still want one. Maybe I'll find a used one or something similar someday.
I've never seen a driveshaft being balanced, didn't know they were balanced with the u-joints installed. A few years ago I replaced the u-joints on my shaft(the diff yoke and the slip joint yoke) didn't realize there was a science to the clocking of the u-joints. I had a vibration issue after...
I've been seeing videos on u-joint replacement, and I notice that its recommended to mark the shaft and the yoke, for reinstalling the shaft in the same position. My question is why? If the drive shaft is balanced, what is it that takes it out of balance, if its put on 180* the other way on the...
My truck has developed a vibration also, between 25-45 mph. I noticed that my transfer case is leaking from somewhere. I didn't think a bad bushing would cause that much vibration.
See if you can read any brand name and/or numbers on your front springs, if not, if you have lift blocks on your rear springs, those are usually good indicators of lift hight. My truck once had a Rancho 2 1/2" lift with 33" tires.
I've been thinking about it. Last time I looked, there were more wires going to other place, and I've just been too busy to track them all down, see what goes where, and remove the ESC module and the harness.
You are correct Boone83. I started another thread about the case connector issue I had, and everyone helped me figure out what was what regarding the lock-up deal. http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10246
The vacuum switch for the TC lock-up solenoid is right next to the brake...
My truck had those symptoms also. After an extensive examination of all the steering and suspension components, it turned out to be the steering box. Have someone get in the running truck, and watch the output shaft of the steering box as the steering wheel is turned to and fro. The popping and...
No doubt, your getting a hell of a deal there. Just keep in mind that you'll need other parts. Raised steering arm, extended brake lines, swaybar drop kit, transfer case drop(if you go with a 6"), longer U-bolts(if you use blocks in the rear. Might not seem like much, but those little knick...
I'm running a 6" Procomp all spring lift, rear spring are ok, front spring are stiff as f%$k. But then again its not any better than the 4" Rancho I had on there before, or the Superlift 8" I had on there before that. I've been pondering removing the shortest bottom leaf on the front packs, and...