K10 fuel line for Holley sniper truck has dual tanks but I’m buying the hokey tank with the efi fuel pump it I’m needing a line kit for just one tank

Looking for a fuel line kit preferably steel from the tank all the way to the Holley sniper 2? What have y’all done and used to hook up here’s the tank set up I’m getting

I did not find a kit that did this. There are universal kits with different components; flex lines, filters, etc.

I made my life difficult by wanting hard line along frame similar to original.

So I did ss flex from tank to frame. SS hardline along frame, ss flex to throttle body. I would not do this again.

I’d get a nylon flex kit and run flex the whole way and be done with it.

If you are set on hard lines. I suggest buying (2) 3/8 supply lines from inline tube and mod from there. 1 as supply the other return. I did not do this, bent my own which was a learning experience. Not entirely happy with how it turned out.

Lot of videos showing how people run their lines.

Also, it looks like you didn’t get the Efi specific tank. I think you will need to add a supplemental vent into the tank. The Efi tank separates the float and pump which leaves space on pump flange for vent connection to be included. I don’t think your all in one float/pump assembly has the vent connection

I looked more at the kit you got last night. Pretty cool with return built in. Couldn’t determine if it needs supplemental vent.

Why not use your existing supply hard lines?

I used 3/8 NiCopp for the supply and return. It has held up well. Keep ethanol in mind when choosing all of your fuel line supplies.

It’s pretty forgiving to work with and easy to straighten from the coil form it’s shipped in.

My driver’s side tank is my primary tank with the high pressure pump. The passenger tank is just a transfer tank into the driver’s tank, so no high pressure switching valve needed.

I ran it on top of the frame so I wouldn’t worry about snagging it on some rogue branch or stick offroad.

Frankenchevy said:

I used 3/8 NiCopp for the supply and return. It has held up well. Keep ethanol in mind when choosing all of your fuel line supplies.

It’s pretty forgiving to work with and easy to straighten from the coil form it’s shipped in.

My driver’s side tank is my primary tank with the high pressure pump. The passenger tank is just a transfer tank into the driver’s tank, so no high pressure switching valve needed.

I ran it on top of the frame so I wouldn’t worry about snagging it on some rogue branch or stick offroad.

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Nice, yours turned out much better than mine. Looks great!

jh86 said:

Nice, yours turned out much better than mine. Looks great!

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Thanks! The routing could be better, but I wanted to only reuse factory holes in the frame. The sending unit was pointing slightly forward as well, which forced me to have a bit of a swoop in the lines there.

I ended up buying pre-made length SS braided with AN fittings for the supply side. I ran the return in rubber fuel-injection rated hose

Frankenchevy said:

I used 3/8 NiCopp for the supply and return. It has held up well. Keep ethanol in mind when choosing all of your fuel line supplies.

It’s pretty forgiving to work with and easy to straighten from the coil form it’s shipped in.

My driver’s side tank is my primary tank with the high pressure pump. The passenger tank is just a transfer tank into the driver’s tank, so no high pressure switching valve needed.

I ran it on top of the frame so I wouldn’t worry about snagging it on some rogue branch or stick offroad.

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Nice clean work!

Is anyone going to comment on probably the cleanest frame I have ever seen on a Square? If that isn’t a replacement frame, then my hat is off to you.

The original lines were run on the inside of the passenger side rake rail. Nothing can get to them in there, especially not a wrench

Broken85 said:

Is anyone going to comment on probably the cleanest frame I have ever seen on a Square? If that isn’t a replacement frame, then my hat is off to you.

The original lines were run on the inside of the passenger side rake rail. Nothing can get to them in there, especially not a wrench

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Not a replacement frame—I didn’t really know that was a thing. My truck has pretty low miles to start with. I cleaned up the frame and painted it.

If you were referring to my lines being inaccessible, they were installed with the body on the frame, so definitely accessible. Fortunately, there are no joints except at the fuel filter, so they should stay leak free for quite some time.