Grit dog
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Good call.
Really tight front brakes!
- Thread starter Truck82
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HotWheelsBurban
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Yes you want them "tight, but not too tight". I was taught to get the spindle nut snug, then back it off a partial turn, just to line the cotter pin holes up. The nut has several slots but there is probably only one hole in the spindle. I haven't done a set in a few years so I forgot about that being a possibility....
75gmck25
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Process I recall is:
- Slowly turn the rotor, and at the same time snug the nut down with a wrench to seat the bearing (I think the book lists a torque setting to use)
- loosen up the nut about a 1/2 to 1 turn with the wrench, and then tighten it down again with your fingers
- turn the nut just enough or get a slot in the nut to align with the spindle, and insert the cotter pin and bend the tangs
Spin the hub to make sure it moves freely
- Slowly turn the rotor, and at the same time snug the nut down with a wrench to seat the bearing (I think the book lists a torque setting to use)
- loosen up the nut about a 1/2 to 1 turn with the wrench, and then tighten it down again with your fingers
- turn the nut just enough or get a slot in the nut to align with the spindle, and insert the cotter pin and bend the tangs
Spin the hub to make sure it moves freely
mlsceo
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You sound like my grandson, lol.Back in the 80s?!? You probably had to watch for dinosaur crossing signs back then…
Truck82
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Yes I compared the new bearings with old ones. They’re the same. They turned over great and really smooth without the caliper on. I put the nut on and ran it down until just snug. Backed it out and then put on hand tight. That’s how my manual says to do it
idahovette
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Don't knock the 80s, or older for that matter ..........look at what you're driving!!!Back in the 80s?!? You probably had to watch for dinosaur crossing signs back then…
Grit dog
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With a C clamp or big channel locks etc?
fast 99
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All the previous suggestions are on point. Will add are the caliper slides free and lubed? There are 2 small o rings inside each caliper casting. Lube those as well.
Use only high temp lube specifically designed for brakes.
For noise abatement a thin film of brake lube on back of the pads where they contact the caliper will help reduce that possibility. This suggestion came directly from a brake pad representative. After we started doing it, noise complaints fell by 1/2.
Assume this does not have JB8 brakes.
Checked Rock auto. Raybestos rotors are $55, shipping ?
Use only high temp lube specifically designed for brakes.
For noise abatement a thin film of brake lube on back of the pads where they contact the caliper will help reduce that possibility. This suggestion came directly from a brake pad representative. After we started doing it, noise complaints fell by 1/2.
Assume this does not have JB8 brakes.
Checked Rock auto. Raybestos rotors are $55, shipping ?
Truck82
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I love my 80s truck! Won’t buy anything new EVER! (Doesn’t mean the dinos weren’t cool but 80s trucks rule)Don't knock the 80s, or older for that matter ..........look at what you're driving!!!
Truck82
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Yup, got everything lubed up. I used high temp brake lube. JB8 brakes? Like what’s on the diesel? If so then yes I do. The local auto store has calipers for $33-45
fast 99
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JB8 are higher GVW likely not what you have.
Didn't mean to confuse you. There is at least one poster here that likes to jump on any little mistake. Covering my a**.
Didn't mean to confuse you. There is at least one poster here that likes to jump on any little mistake. Covering my a**.
