Help With Parking Break Dash Light Staying On

Recently I depressed the parking brake and the parking break light has stayed on on the dash. This is why I have avoided using the parking brake. In the past I have managed to get the light to finally go off but I cannot remember what I did. It seems like it is directly related to the parking brake pedal being so loose it pulls up just enough to make the ball sensor on the end of the line rest on the metal and send the light to the dash. I have looked in to a few things that may lead to this indicator staying on. The truck drives fine and brakes with no issues. To me it seems to brake with all four. I read about how the proportioning valve works but this doesn't seem to be what is sending the light on. Maybe someone with more insight on this could educate me as to how it actually could be within the proportioning valve. Again, the light on the dash only stays on after the parking break has been used and when released it seems to release all the way but the pedal drops back down just enough to set the light. I also have seen videos of people demonstrating going back and forth from auxiliary to on on the ignition column can clear it but on my 87 truck there is no auxiliary to turn the key backwards in to. Do I have a not original to the truck steering column possibly? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Have seen the emergency brake assemblies so worn they will not return properly. Un plug wire on top light should go out. Can also do the same on the proportioning valve, unplug wire. Any emergency brake cable that sticks or drags emergency assembly may not return fully either.

Many of the trucks have experienced this. Simply a sloppy parking brake pedal assembly. A farmer favorite is wire it tight to the release rod if you've got one lol.

I'd bet if you pull on the park brake release and lift up on the pedal you're light will go off.

PrairieDrifter said:

Many of the trucks have experienced this. Simply a sloppy parking brake pedal assembly. A farmer favorite is wire it tight to the release rod if you've got one lol.

I'd bet if you pull on the park brake release and lift up on the pedal you're light will go off.

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I have to do that every time. Lifting up on the pedal only works until I let go of the pedal now, if you know what I mean. I will try this again tomorrow to see if there is a trick I can get out of it. If not I will try to record a short video to post.

If you do pull on the park brake release and lift up on the pedal and the light goes off, you probably just need to tighten up your parking brake cable a bit so the springs out back pull the pedal up all the way when released. If your afraid that you have weak springs inside the drums, you could put a spring pulling just on the adjustment nut..... some old cars actually had a small hole drilled in the end of the adjuster thread specifically for a spring.

Your rear cables should be adjusted so they pull the pedal clear up to and on the rubber bumper.
Don't know if I have ever seen a pedal that worn that a simple adjustment would not fix. The pedal ans no return spring, like some vehicles. And, yes the little lever switch can get bent.

@Robert Bare and @grummy ets just say I cannot solve this by fooling around with the release lever and break pedal in the cab, which I am now anticipating, how and where do I begin adjusting the parking break cable? I have been looking on U Toob and cannot find any videos specific enough so far. Will I need to go in to the rear drums for this adjustment or is it possible to adjust in the cab or along the line under the frame?

Look at the picture. You need to make sure all the parts are there, especially the 3 links from the cables to the frame. Missing one gives you a loose floppy cable, not enough adjustment. Your adjustment is where the front cable goes through #6. It is threaded. BUT you need to make sure both rear cables are working/moving. There are springs on them, inside the brake drums, to pull the cables back. You need to make sure they return all the way. Easiest way, loosen adjuster. Yank on each cable(pulling down works best, springs are stiff!), you should be able to tell if cables work smoothly. Need to make sure they return all the way, inside the drum. Usually I can tell by doing the above, but I have worked on many thousands. If you have any doubts, pull the drums and look. So, if all looks good, put back together, if you took the adjuster apart, and adjust. If you see brakes more worn on one side, cable is probably dragging. Cables are cheap, and easy to replace. Many times, because of the bends, the front cable drags, gets stiff, sometimes works fine part of the way, then drags when trying to go all the way up. Usually from rust inside. So, the best way is unscrew adjuster and make sure cables move free, and all the way. But, as I said, new cables are cheap, and easy to replace.
Now in the "bad old days, have seen the return springs very rusty, get weak, even parts gone and rust off. The springs are part of the cables.
Also, cables stretched so much they even sold slack reducers, little clamps to reduce the length. More of a pre 1970s thing. But new cables are cheap--lol.

Check the small switch on the parking brake pedal mechanism. It may be broken, or not screwed on tight.

Proportioning valve can also turn on the light, but it usually only happens when you press the power brake pedal.

I crawled under and put more tension on the cable at the bracket where the lines split to both rear drums and it has turned the dash parking break light off. Thank you all.