Front end noise

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Fjordlander

Fjordlander

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I somewhat recently installed a 2 inch lift on my 76 K10 a long with 33x12 tires. Not long after lifting, I started hearing this clunking sound that seems to go away when I get up to highway speeds. It's kind of a combination of a clunking and grinding sound and my first thought was something was touching the driveshaft but that's not the case.
I've double-checked every bolt related to the suspension and my wheel bearings on the front are new so it's not that. I've also verified that the tires don't hit anything when driving.
I don't know what else to check and I'm concerned it's only going to get worse and do some actual damage so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Ricko1966

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Fjordlander said:
I somewhat recently installed a 2 inch lift on my 76 K10 a long with 33x12 tires. Not long after lifting, I started hearing this clunking sound that seems to go away when I get up to highway speeds. It's kind of a combination of a clunking and grinding sound and my first thought was something was touching the driveshaft but that's not the case.
I've double-checked every bolt related to the suspension and my wheel bearings on the front are new so it's not that. I've also verified that the tires don't hit anything when driving.
I don't know what else to check and I'm concerned it's only going to get worse and do some actual damage so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...
How new are the wheel bearings? I have a noise in the front end,and I have new front wheel bearings in the same post,puts a red flag on something to do with the front wheel bearings,hubs
 
Chris64

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I have a 2 inch on my K20. Is the e-brake cable clear? Mine is really close to the rear driveshaft and the exhaust. Yet another project that I haven't had a chance to work on yet.

Just curious, did you get new brake cables? I just replaced my rear cable but I'm thinking I should've gotten a longer-than-stock cable.
 
Fjordlander

Fjordlander

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Ricko1966 said:
How new are the wheel bearings? I have a noise in the front end,and I have new front wheel bearings in the same post,puts a red flag on something to do with the front wheel bearings,hubs
Click to expand...
I put the wheel bearings in back in May and didn't have any weird noises until a couple weeks ago
 
Fjordlander

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Chris64 said:
I have a 2 inch on my K20. Is the e-brake cable clear? Mine is really close to the rear driveshaft and the exhaust. Yet another project that I haven't had a chance to work on yet.

Just curious, did you get new brake cables? I just replaced my rear cable but I'm thinking I should've gotten a longer-than-stock cable.
Click to expand...
I didn't replace the e brake cable.. I didn't even think to check that!
 
Chris64

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Fjordlander said:
I didn't replace the e brake cable.. I didn't even think to check that!
Click to expand...
Well, the e-brake cable is just the rear-end probably (I re-read the title).

But also the actual brake rubber hoses may need to be longer. That was my question. I know with a 4" they need to be replaced. I'm not sure with a 2" lift.
 
AuroraGirl

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Chris64 said:
Well, the e-brake cable is just the rear-end probably (I re-read the title).

But also the actual brake rubber hoses may need to be longer. That was my question. I know with a 4" they need to be replaced. I'm not sure with a 2" lift.
Click to expand...
Hoses that are twisted (think rotating the caliper when its removed) or stretched will apply the brake because it squeezes the fluid inside which, as we know, a hydraulic fluid being acted on will move the thing its designed to actuate

Pushing the pistons outward , even if only a little. In low drag calipers this probably is felt less because of their retraction feature. But in the 1976 without that, its probably amplified
 
Fjordlander

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squaredeal91 said:
U-joint?
Hub left locked in?
Click to expand...
The u-joints on the drive shafts seem fine (no play at all) but idk how old they are. I replaced the axle u-joints this spring which is when I replaced the bearings as well.
Also my hubs don't lock
 
Fjordlander

Fjordlander

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Chris64 said:
Well, the e-brake cable is just the rear-end probably (I re-read the title).

But also the actual brake rubber hoses may need to be longer. That was my question. I know with a 4" they need to be replaced. I'm not sure with a 2" lift.
Click to expand...
From my research, stock hoses Should be long enough with a 2 inch lift but I've been thinking about replacing them with longer hoses just to play it safe.
 
Fjordlander

Fjordlander

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AuroraGirl said:
Hoses that are twisted (think rotating the caliper when its removed) or stretched will apply the brake because it squeezes the fluid inside which, as we know, a hydraulic fluid being acted on will move the thing its designed to actuate

Pushing the pistons outward , even if only a little. In low drag calipers this probably is felt less because of their retraction feature. But in the 1976 without that, its probably amplified
Click to expand...
I'll look into this. I've been considering replacing the hoses anyway so I'll probably just put some longer ones on to play it safe
 
Fjordlander

Fjordlander

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Radiohead said:
Bearings done recently brings something to mind. Have you re-checked the bearing preload?
Click to expand...
I haven't but I will do that tomorrow!
 
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