What have you done to your square lately??

BRetty said:

I agree. Somehow, even though I have a degree in Mechanical Engineering, reading manuals or even looking at diagrams about carbs makes my eyes glaze over.

The linkage has a couple tiny studs on the end to keep it on the cam, it looks like I have to un-hook the tiny cotter pin from the other end, pull that end out, so I can rotate the thing 90deg to slip it through that curved slot. Then re-attach the lower end.

Notice you didn't actually say *what it is*, just where stick it in... ;-}

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Bloodhound1981 said:

Here's what I did to my square lately...I attempted to make a spirited 1/4 mile run in a fairly remote area. After stomping the go pedal, the truck suddenly went to idle only. Well, I ripped the Lokar throttle cable out of the ferrule on the throttle body of my First fuel injection intake. Clearly due to my gas pedal not being adjusted properly. I was just barely able to get a couple strands of cable into the ferrule to limp all the way home. I was half considering making a shoe string throttle haha. Good times.

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bucket said:

Wait, you have a FIRST intake? As in, TPI? If so, how do you like the setup? Did you buy it new or used?

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Bloodhound1981 said:

Bought it new, and it's AWESOME, in my opinion. When I first frame-off built my truck in the early 90's in high school, I put a 350 TPI out of an IROC in it, with an Accel computer. That was kinda high tech at the time. The truck sat and rotted from around 2001 to 2012. Spent the last 12 years doing it all over again, but better. I wanted TPI because that's what it was the first time I built it, but that intake can't breath past about 4K rpm. And no way I was LS swapping it, had to keep to it's roots. So I bought the FIRST intake and put it on a new roller crate 350 (the SP350/357 to be exact) with a Holley HP ECU, and it does everything I want it to do. It's TPI as GM should have made it, all the torque and it can rev pretty good too. I keep saying I need to make a build thread.

Don't judge the pic too hard, things are cleaned up since taking it. Still need to route a cold air intake though.

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bluex said:

Love it man! I have a standard tpi with a voretec lower I'm going to put on mine soon an run with a terminator.

When I do my 383 I have a super ram with the tpis lower.

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JamesSam said:

Was bummed about the Dawgs losing to the elephant tide but I'm a C Tigers fan so...see you later?

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BRetty said:

I agree. Somehow, even though I have a degree in Mechanical Engineering, reading manuals or even looking at diagrams about carbs makes my eyes glaze over.

The linkage has a couple tiny studs on the end to keep it on the cam, it looks like I have to un-hook the tiny cotter pin from the other end, pull that end out, so I can rotate the thing 90deg to slip it through that curved slot. Then re-attach the lower end.

Notice you didn't actually say *what it is*, just where stick it in... ;-}

Click to expand...

Daron58 said:

I just put a top cover kit and a new reverse light switch in my SM 465 and replaced the shift forks for L-1 and 2-3 hopefully will get the slack out of the shifter , thanks to a video from U tube on the install of the top cover without that would have still been outside trying to figure it out, pretty neat little trick,can’t wait to get it back on the road

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Bloodhound1981 said:

Bought it new, and it's AWESOME, in my opinion. When I first frame-off built my truck in the early 90's in high school, I put a 350 TPI out of an IROC in it, with an Accel computer. That was kinda high tech at the time. The truck sat and rotted from around 2001 to 2012. Spent the last 12 years doing it all over again, but better. I wanted TPI because that's what it was the first time I built it, but that intake can't breath past about 4K rpm. And no way I was LS swapping it, had to keep to it's roots. So I bought the FIRST intake and put it on a new roller crate Vortec 350 (the SP350/357 to be exact) with a Holley HP ECU, and it does everything I want it to do. It's TPI as GM should have made it, all the torque and it can rev pretty good too. I keep saying I need to make a build thread.

Don't judge the pic too hard, things are cleaned up since taking it. Still need to route a cold air intake though.

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Bextreme04 said:

The piece you have to connect it to is the choke pull-off. It gives a restriction to the secondaries and choke opening while there is a high vacuum in the manifold(idle). When you floor it and the vacuum falls off, it lets the gold arm extend and allows the secondaries to open slowly instead of slamming open. You are correct on how to connect it, or you can unbolt the pull-off and rotate that to slide the rod in the slot.

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Grit dog said:

The Wesco guys in Auburn are helpful and not pretentious.
Red is the most expensive color you can buy.
I’ll reserve comment about spending many hours and $ to get a vehicle ready to paint and then using cheap oil based paint. But it doesn’t make sense for about all the reasons one can think of.
@Girth i know you’re now on short clock weather wise, but reccomend Tamco and with their frequent sales, you could get one of a few different types of high quality 2k urethane red for around $300/gal. Probably be double much that for shop line PPG Omni at Wesco. Pre Covid, it was about $60 for a half pint of maroon metallic single stage Omni at Wesco.
Burb takes alot of paint though! Youd need 2 gallons at least of single stage and probably use every drop of it and be sweating it. Even more if it’s cheap paint. So the Wesco guys aren’t totally wrong from an economical standpoint. You could base coat it easily with a gallon of base and have enough leftover to fix every whiskey dent for the next 15 years. And clear coat is about half the price of red ss or base. It makes sense financially and durability wise to do base/clear.
That financial gap narrows with cheaper colors but the other advantages of 2 stage are still the same.
I’m assuming you just want a bright red or are you matching a factory color?
Another way to save a buck is get some cheaper urethane base or single stage preferably base and basically guide coat the vehicle first so your top coat base or single stage will cover quicker.
Just some thoughts, paint is expensive. Cheap paint is disappointing in the long run but there are ways to save a buck.
For example when I did the blue truck, I “accidentally” used the wrong color base coat on the first panels I “tested” on. Got the wrong shade but went ahead and base coated the the underside of the hood and inside of tailgate and some misc trim pieces. It was close and what I found is the right color covered MUCH quicker. Took one less coat. So when I did the inside of the bed, I burned up more of that leftover wrong shade of light blue. In the end I painted everything but the inside of the cab and underside of the bed (did black). I used Less than 3 qts of base coat. If I’d base coated the rest the wrong color first, I could have probably done the whole truck with 2 quarts of base.

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