Help cant get heater box out

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Richard B

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2024
Posts
9
Reaction score
2
Location
Oregon
First Name
Richard
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K5 Blazer
Engine Size
6.2l
There is an AC exchanger cover on the firewall and it is covering the heater studs, and I can't get at the nuts. Do I have to totally remove, that is destroy ( it's very brittle), this schroud to get at my stud nuts out?
 

Attachments

  • 20240930_125755.jpg
    20240930_125755.jpg
    131.2 KB · Views: 17
Last edited:

Richard B

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2024
Posts
9
Reaction score
2
Location
Oregon
First Name
Richard
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K5 Blazer
Engine Size
6.2l
The answer is it has to come out in pieces. If you don't want to disconnect the AC components. Well now it looks like the ones that are not diesels. I guess that will do.
 

75gmck25

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Posts
2,235
Reaction score
2,152
Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
It’s been a long time since I replaced mine, but I don’t think the AC box had to come out. However there is one stud hidden by the inner fender. You need to unbolt the inner fender and pull it out of the way, or some folks manage to get a universal joint and socket in there. Attached is the page from my ‘75 repair manual. Steps 1-2 (not shown) are to disconnect and plug the heater hoses.

It's also a PIA to get the heater box back in, because you are pushing and compressing the firewall insulation, and at the same time trying to line up the bolts with holes in the firewall.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9254.jpeg
    IMG_9254.jpeg
    193.5 KB · Views: 15

Terry Wilkerson

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2021
Posts
505
Reaction score
678
Location
Kansas
First Name
Terry
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
GMC 1500
Engine Size
350
It’s been a long time since I replaced mine, but I don’t think the AC box had to come out. However there is one stud hidden by the inner fender. You need to unbolt the inner fender and pull it out of the way, or some folks manage to get a universal joint and socket in there. Attached is the page from my ‘75 repair manual. Steps 1-2 (not shown) are to disconnect and plug the heater hoses.

It's also a PIA to get the heater box back in, because you are pushing and compressing the firewall insulation, and at the same time trying to line up the bolts with holes in the firewall.
75gmc is right pull the inner finder well. It's not hard. Easier with the wheel off. Then you will see the hidden bolt.
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
6,873
Reaction score
12,014
Location
Auburn, Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
AC box stays in. Bottom nuts are hidden. All are on the firewall. But you can get em with enough extensions and a swivel. Heater box come out from the inside.
I left one of them off when I reassembled. Heater was tight and no fkin way I was getting it back on.
It’s pretty straightforward. Probably twice as fast the second time. Just take your time. Brute force and old heater boxes do not get along.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
43,931
Posts
945,929
Members
35,975
Latest member
jm608
Top