Ls swap mounting issue

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bruisedbanana79

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Working on my 1985 ls swap (4.8, 4l60e, 208 TC). Used dirty dingo slider mounts and even with the engine pushed back as far as possible in those mounts my transmission crossmember and driveline is about 2.5” pushed forward. Obviously I can shorten the front driveshaft and have a new rear one built but that is costly. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can get the transfer case pushed back more?
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Rustisbest

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Are the slots not to the rear of the bolts? Looks like it's all the way forward to me.
 
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CalSgt

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Rustisbest said:
Are the slots not to the rear of the bolts? Looks like it's all the way forward to me.
Click to expand...
Same

Engine should be almost touching firewall
 
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bruisedbanana79

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CalSgt said:
Same

Engine should be almost touching firewall
Click to expand...
Yes the the slider mounts are pushed as far rearward as possible only adjustment left in them would be pulling the engine forward. I do have about 2” between the head and the firewall which made me think something is off. Now the suburban had a diesel in it from the factory and I can not seem to find a clear diagram on how the frame pads differ from a Sbc to a diesel
 
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bruisedbanana79

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Rustisbest said:
Are the slots not to the rear of the bolts? Looks like it's all the way forward to me.
Click to expand...
You ever have one of those moments where you question everything you know about cars…..between the old man and myself over 60 years of building experience and we have the engine pulled all the way forward! Thank you for both of you two for seeing this. Looks like I’ll probably have to figure out the trans dipstick since it is closer than 2.5” to the firewall right now. But that is cheaper than new driveshafts
 
Rustisbest

Rustisbest

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Edit: we were typing at the same time lol.
 
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CalSgt

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bruisedbanana79 said:
You ever have one of those moments where you question everything you know about cars…..between the old man and myself over 60 years of building experience and we have the engine pulled all the way forward! Thank you for both of you two for seeing this. Looks like I’ll probably have to figure out the trans dipstick since it is closer than 2.5” to the firewall right now. But that is cheaper than new driveshafts
Click to expand...
Dipstick tube should be able to move a bit, just bend the tab where it’s bolted to the bell housing
 
justhorns

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Driveline industries in Denver can shorten and lengthen existing driveshafts. I'm sure yours can too. Also, you must ask yourself "where do I want the motor?" How is fan/radiator clearance (should still be big). It seems to me that getting the distributor away from the firewall would be a big advantage. If clearance is good, work on the driveshafts. How much has the LS swap cost vs driveshaft cost?
 
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CalSgt

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justhorns said:
Driveline industries in Denver can shorten and lengthen existing driveshafts. I'm sure yours can too. Also, you must ask yourself "where do I want the motor?" How is fan/radiator clearance (should still be big). It seems to me that getting the distributor away from the firewall would be a big advantage. If clearance is good, work on the driveshafts. How much has the LS swap cost vs driveshaft cost?
Click to expand...
No distributor on LS, they’re fired by coil packs mounted to the valve cover
 
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bruisedbanana79

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Well ladies and gentlemen I was not firing on all cylinders yesterday . Was able to slide it back within 3/16” of the firewall and now both driveshafts fit like factory! Huge cost savings
 
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