This is a coolant leak right?

If you want to SHOP to see what is available, check out summit racing. They have several brands and types of radiators to choose from. Then after seeing what is available, use the part numbers to source the type you want locally. We bought a brass radiator from Summit and it worked and fit great.

Rusty Nail said:

Look I'm not talkin chit (much) but you could have fixed it that day - A WEEK AGO.
Ye olde radiator repair shoppe and them "good olde days" are long gone even though the truck remains.

You're the only guy that is gonna make it easy on you..tryin to help.

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Evidently, the good ole days are still alive and well where I live.

82sbshortbed said:

If you can find the leak yourself there's some radiator puddy I got from Walmart or parts house that works really well. I put it on the 82 and it has held up well. I was gonna buy a new one but tried that first and it's help up ever since. Just another option for you. I'll take a picture of it when I get home if you want me

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Thanks for the info, I think I’m leaning toward this option. It’s really difficult to tell where the leak is coming from with the fan shroud installed. I tried unbolting it at the top, but that’s still didn’t really give me enough clearance to see much. Is the best approach to pull the radiator and pressurize it and hit it with snoop to find the leaks? If so, what is the best way to pressurize the radiator and to what max pressure?

WP29P4A said:

If you want to SHOP to see what is available, check out summit racing. They have several brands and types of radiators to choose from. Then after seeing what is available, use the part numbers to source the type you want locally. We bought a brass radiator from Summit and it worked and fit great.

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I’ve been looking at a lot of different sites and I guess what so confusing or all the many varying opinions about aluminum versus brass, etc. Ideally, I don’t want to spend $400 or $500. Seems like Summit and champion have some good options. I want something that’s reliable that isn’t gonna leak again while I own this truck if I do invest in replacing it. I don’t need the best of the best but I want good quality and a good value.

tophat36 said:

Thanks for the info, I think I’m leaning toward this option. It’s really difficult to tell where the leak is coming from with the fan shroud installed. I tried unbolting it at the top, but that’s still didn’t really give me enough clearance to see much. Is the best approach to pull the radiator and pressurize it and hit it with snoop to find the leaks? If so, what is the best way to pressurize the radiator and to what max pressure?

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Mine was right where I could get to it without having to remove it. You should be able to shove the fan shroud towards the motor and slide the radiator up and out after disconnecting the hoses and transmission lines. I think it wouldn't take much pressure to get it to leak. Maybe 25 or 30 pounds of air. Soapy water should work. I'll take some pictures of it when I get home from work.

This is what I used. It should work. I just globbed on some and pushed it on And let it harden. It works even if it's a little wet. I probably used a little more than I needed but it holds.

Is what many car youtubers are doing, you know that means a bit pricey.

82sbshortbed said:

This is what I used. It should work. I just globbed on some and pushed it on And let it harden. It works even if it's a little wet. I probably used a little more than I needed but it holds.

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Awesome, thanks for all the pictures and information. Looks like I’ll be pulling my radiator this weekend to try this. Thanks for your help.

Took my 86 rad to get it fixed, but was bad corroded, many tiny holes. Your truck looks like it does not have air, so very easy to fix. I bought a new rad through the shop that I took my radiator to, about $570, but with care, should out last me.

Craig Nedrow said:

Took my 86 rad to get it fixed, but was bad corroded, many tiny holes. Your truck looks like it does not have air, so very easy to fix. I bought a new rad through the shop that I took my radiator to, about $570, but with care, should out last me.

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Mine does have ac but I’m but I’m not at a place where I’m ready to tackle that …luxury lol.

tophat36 said:

Awesome, thanks for all the pictures and information. Looks like I’ll be pulling my radiator this weekend to try this. Thanks for your help.

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Sadly, lots of leaks and I think replacement makes the most sense from a time standpoint. Much larger leaks than I expected to find.

tophat36 said:

Sadly, lots of leaks and I think replacement makes the most sense from a time standpoint. Much larger leaks than I expected to find.

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check out my ad in the for sale section

Rusty Nail said:

We like pictures ..

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Alright so I ordered a Champion 3-Row CC716 replacement radiator. It was about $275 shipped. Installed it yesterday.

Overall I’m happy bc everything lined up perfect, but the height of the replacement is about an inch shorter than what was installed. Had to be creative with some packaging foam to get the top radiator bracket to hold the new radiator in place. It’s only temporary and I’m not super concerned bc that kind of foam has a relatively high melting point. I used the existing rubber mounts on the bottom but they are worn a good bit. I ordered some replacements to see if they give a little bit more height on the bottom to lift it higher.

I left the fan shroud off because it gives me better access to the front brake lines that I plan to replace next. Contemplating just going with 2 electric fans bc I like the way it looks and everything is so accessible. Heard SPAL are a good brand. Attached some pics of what I took out and the new one. I don’t have a reference to know if what I pulled out is really bad or not, but I’m happy I decided to just get something new.

Old radiator said Lynwood Radiator on it, not sure if that’s a common brand or if that’s original.

Ricko1966 said:

Aluminum radiators will destroy themselves if they become a battery, yes they do this. Put a positive lead from a multimeter into the radiator and ground the negative lead to battery. Check for voltage,engine running,loads on, headlights,heater blower etc. Shouldn't be any, I am not sure if the antifreeze becomes acidic or not but stands to reason it would. Anyway it's something to check. They also like to have a sacrificial rod in them,just like a water heater,so the sacrificial rod gets eaten instead of the radiator. Look up water heater sacrificial rod and read about it,it's usually the difference in a longer warrantied water heater,2 sacrificial rods instead of one. Thanks for reminding me I should probably change mine as maintenance

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Somewhere I ran across a voltage specification that would help determine if the cooling system had turned into a battery and/or the coolant additives had been depleted. Can't remember the number but think it was in the less than 1 volt area, possibly .4v. Haven't used the test in years but at the time it seemed to be valid.

Them lower radiator bucket mount lookin thingys suuuurree get rode hard dont they?!
I had some that gave me fits once and thennnnn

And then I discovered a fancy secret fix. Wanna hear it?

Please deposit an additional $4.95 per minute and i'll tell all!