I hate the power window and door lock switches

AuroraGirl said:

You can get a ratcheting crimper, they are considered to be better and can provide the proper way to do it. the single step ones you get at the store are basically useless to the question of "proper" crimping. While I dont hesitate to use them , I want to get the proper tool and see how its done. You can definitel tell/feel the difference in the finished result, i compare wires done factory in bladed connectors vs a crimp blade or ring terminals since they are usually the same size as the factory kind you can compare a similar wire gauge/insulation combo and similar end fitting and the factory one is much more robust. Because of this i limit my crimps at this time to custom stuff im not worried about failure or i have other means of securing reliably.

From here on I just explain what is a good example i dont mind crimping the less reliable way with cheap crimpers

Spoiler: story

For example , I ran a spade-female off a random ass tab in the dome light of my f150 to the front to run a floor lamp (obs fords had no option for floor lighting, same as later GMT800 trucks.)to a wire which I tucked behind the trim that runs along the windows around the top of the windows to the pillar, then to the place where the dash bottom is, then just followed that along to where my lamp is. The wire isnt at risk of pulling the connector because its secured tightly in that trim and it makes several 90s on way to its destination, didint have a harness to tuck it in for most of its run but i didnt conduit it with the wires under dash that i followed just to retain it and protect a bit

the lamp is a squarebody harness for a ashtray/floor lamp from the 70s, lol. I didnt feed power to the ash tray lamp yet because the way squarebody does it feeds them separate because the doors feed power under different circumstances than the ashtray. Plus i dont have a way to hold the 194 bulb in the ford, i may just change it to be power feed to an LED strip or something to provide less intense but wider spread light or run it to behind the seat to light up that area when doors open or switch is turned.

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YakkoWarner said:

I always prefer to use proper tools when available - I have not seen one of these "ratchet" crimping tools - I assume it uses some sort of arcane laws of physics to increase the mechanical advantage? I'm also going to assume its not something one can get at the local Harbor Freight or Autozone?

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CheemsK1500 said:

I have experimented a lot with different crimping techniques. The best that I have found is to use ratcheting crimpers with heat shrink style butt connectors. The plastic melts onto the wire insulation and "grips" it, this makes it harder for vibration and movement to cause a wire to back out. I also sometimes fold the wire onto itself (not too much, or it could tear) to fit tighter in the butt connector.

Click to expand...

AuroraGirl said:

You can get a ratcheting crimper, they are considered to be better and can provide the proper way to do it. the single step ones you get at the store are basically useless to the question of "proper" crimping. While I dont hesitate to use them , I want to get the proper tool and see how its done. You can definitel tell/feel the difference in the finished result, i compare wires done factory in bladed connectors vs a crimp blade or ring terminals since they are usually the same size as the factory kind you can compare a similar wire gauge/insulation combo and similar end fitting and the factory one is much more robust. Because of this i limit my crimps at this time to custom stuff im not worried about failure or i have other means of securing reliably.

From here on I just explain what is a good example i dont mind crimping the less reliable way with cheap crimpers

Spoiler: story

For example , I ran a spade-female off a random ass tab in the dome light of my f150 to the front to run a floor lamp (obs fords had no option for floor lighting, same as later GMT800 trucks.)to a wire which I tucked behind the trim that runs along the windows around the top of the windows to the pillar, then to the place where the dash bottom is, then just followed that along to where my lamp is. The wire isnt at risk of pulling the connector because its secured tightly in that trim and it makes several 90s on way to its destination, didint have a harness to tuck it in for most of its run but i didnt conduit it with the wires under dash that i followed just to retain it and protect a bit

the lamp is a squarebody harness for a ashtray/floor lamp from the 70s, lol. I didnt feed power to the ash tray lamp yet because the way squarebody does it feeds them separate because the doors feed power under different circumstances than the ashtray. Plus i dont have a way to hold the 194 bulb in the ford, i may just change it to be power feed to an LED strip or something to provide less intense but wider spread light or run it to behind the seat to light up that area when doors open or switch is turned.

Click to expand...

59840Surfer said:

I worked in a cryogenics research facility (SeaLab) and they would not use the crimpers that put the pointed dent in the crush zone.

They had to run to US Navy standards that forbade them because they tend to over-crush the individual wire strands, and they are made of copper and they get cut or broken soon after.

Some crimpers only put those half-moon crimps on each side so the wires never got a singular hard point of crush.

Then I got the special crimper that puts a kinda-square crush on both sides and is also NASA approved.

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LINK HERE

I still have the Panduit®* gun (for what is commonly called a Zip-Tie) that not only pulls the leg to the optimum tension, but then cuts the tag end off at the lock-end - flush.

* - invented the Panduit®, cable tie straps for NASA.

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