Terrible gap

Keith Seymore said:

Here's how we did it:

"Quote=Keith Seymore

What we used to do for fender shims is tape a packet together, like 3 shims, and we would run those all day whether the truck we were currently building needed it or not.

Eventually the final repair supervisor would call back and say something encouraging, like "SEYMORE!! YOU IDIOT!! WTH ARE YOU THINKING?!?! ALL THESE FENDERS ARE RUNNING HIGH!! ARE YOU EVEN LOOKING AT THESE TRUCKS?!? TAKE A SHIM OUT BEFORE I COME BACK THERE AND SHOW YOU HOW TO DO THIS!!" I can just imagine the spittle flying into the phone mouthpiece.

So we would start running a new shim pack, like 2 shims, until he called again with his latest observation.

Basically it was to address "macro trends". You had about 45 seconds to complete the truck in front of you and move to the next one; that's not enough time to fit and re-fit each individual truck."

Also -

"This technique would get you close on the majority of vehicles.

There was a repair station at the end of my area. There was also a short moving repair line (two, actually) at the end of final line. If they could fix them there while on the move then they would; otherwise it would be out to a stationary repair stall in "heavy repair" for the really bad ones.

I should add that some of the repairs did not consist of removing the bolt or adding/deleting shims. Often the repair consisted of bending, twisting or hammering while the line was moving."

K

Click to expand...

Wasn't criticizing the employees. If a part isn't manufactured within adjustability not much in the way of options. Back then close was good enough. Really don't know how they could be assembled as fast as they were given the variations.

Add window adjustments into the mix like hardtops. My Ranchero is a total nightmare to stop wind noise and still close the door. No way in a few seconds the line could adjust it. Quantity was job 1, quality job 2, safety job 3.

Here’s what a “factory” 70s truck looks like. It ain’t great and maybe could be improved but the front of this truck has never been touched or apart.
Our 80s truck has much better hood/fender gaps.
And fwiw, the interface between the top back of fenders and the windshield frame/A pillar is ALWayS crooked.
The fact that one side of yours seems to look very straight and symmetrical in one pic almost suggests that fender was re-worked at some point. IMO

Keith Seymore said:

Here's how we did it:

"Quote=Keith Seymore

What we used to do for fender shims is tape a packet together, like 3 shims, and we would run those all day whether the truck we were currently building needed it or not.

Eventually the final repair supervisor would call back and say something encouraging, like "SEYMORE!! YOU IDIOT!! WTH ARE YOU THINKING?!?! ALL THESE FENDERS ARE RUNNING HIGH!! ARE YOU EVEN LOOKING AT THESE TRUCKS?!? TAKE A SHIM OUT BEFORE I COME BACK THERE AND SHOW YOU HOW TO DO THIS!!" I can just imagine the spittle flying into the phone mouthpiece.

So we would start running a new shim pack, like 2 shims, until he called again with his latest observation.

Basically it was to address "macro trends". You had about 45 seconds to complete the truck in front of you and move to the next one; that's not enough time to fit and re-fit each individual truck."

Also -

"This technique would get you close on the majority of vehicles.

There was a repair station at the end of my area. There was also a short moving repair line (two, actually) at the end of final line. If they could fix them there while on the move then they would; otherwise it would be out to a stationary repair stall in "heavy repair" for the really bad ones.

I should add that some of the repairs did not consist of removing the bolt or adding/deleting shims. Often the repair consisted of bending, twisting or hammering while the line was moving."

K

Click to expand...

@ Keith - seconded, we need to get a first hand experience book ( or series ) published about what it was like and how it was done !.. With the popularity of the trucks now I am sure it would be hit. Get people's old photos too - before its all lost forever. - maybe the forum could organise a project - any takers ?..

@curse - for the OP - depends how "bad" the truck is, and how "good" you want to get it. All show cars ( winners anyway ) have countless hours of custom work in fitting panels and creating perfect seams. They were never like that from the factory.
The fit will only ever be as good as the foundation. That means a straight frame, new body mounts and rust free body supports. If any of those things are off, panels will never fit.
Once you have new cab / core support mounts ( urethane probably better than rubber ), you need to get the door shuts right using the hinge adjustment ( in / out, up /down, forward back ). Door striker adjustment can help here too.
Once doors are right, you can hang the inner / outer fender assy. to match the door alignment and set gaps. Shims can be used at any point where they bolt to the cab or the core support - less is better, and equal side to side hopefully. Don't forget the inner fender to firewall bolts - there are usually shims in there from the factory. Check gap front and back between the fender tops, and door front gaps before tightening up to the core support. Diagonals across the engine bay will tell you if both fenders are square to the frame.
The hood will then have to be dropped in and adjusted using the hood hinges to match up side to side and height at the firewall. Front height can me managed with the screw in rubber buffers on the top of the radiator filler panel.
Top rear corner of the fender to the wiper splash panel / door will ALWAYS be rubbish. This will need metal fab to re-shape to get a "show " finish. Thats just how they came.
Good luck - post pics...

Dated a girl with really bad gap for a while.

Ditch her. I did.

Get you a better girl.