Just want to make shure im reinstalling new control arms correctly.

Bennyt said:

When you say bolt, are you using the correct stud, which I believe is serrated or are you using just a Grade 8 off the shelf?

There are washer/ spacers that go on before you shim but I feel like they are about 1/4". Something is definitely wrong if you are having to put 1" of shims in. If the springs are cut, I could see you having to put a lot of shims in though.

Also some shafts are offset so turning 180 might get you closer.

I'm still confused as to why you are putting C20 arms in on a C10?

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They're just grade 8 bolts that were the same size/length as what we cut off.


We are lifting the truck it was previously lowered 3 in. But I was really suppried when I still had to put quite a few shims in.


then the other side.

Also the c20 control arms were advertised as c10 ones. They must just be people modifying c20 arms to fit c10 ball joints.

Some contractor is standing in the Simpson aisle at Home Depot pissed off because all the BP 1/2-3HDG bearing plate washers are out of stock!

Having your control arm leveraging that far from the frame is introducing stresses that assembly as a whole was never designed to handle. I don’t know much about c10s, but that doesn’t seem right.

Frankenchevy said:

Some contractor is standing in the Simpson aisle at Home Depot pissed off because all the BP 1/2-3HDG bearing plate washers are out of stock!

Having your control arm leveraging that far from the frame is introducing stresses that assembly as a whole was never designed to handle. I don’t know much about c10s, but that doesn’t seem right.

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Nope, not right.

If lifting a c10 means the picture above is what’s required, I wouldn’t do it. Enjoy the truck for what it is. If the goal is to take it down gravel fire roads, the “engineering” pictured above will no doubt make the truck less reliable in just about any situation.

I would never want to bash a young person trying to build something, but I recommend finding someone with a decent level of experience that can at least shake their head in disbelief when you propose ideas to them. That way you have some gauge as to what’s a bad idea.

Frankenchevy said:

If lifting a c10 means the picture above is what’s required, I wouldn’t do it. Enjoy the truck for what it is. If the goal is to take it down gravel fire roads, the “engineering” pictured above will no doubt make the truck less reliable in just about any situation.

I would never want to bash a young person trying to build something, but I recommend finding someone with a decent level of experience that can at least shake their head in disbelief when you propose ideas to them. That way you have some gauge as to what’s a bad idea.

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I've tried to steer him away from this idea, even recommended a k10, but he is determined.

:/

Frankenchevy said:

If lifting a c10 means the picture above is what’s required, I wouldn’t do it. Enjoy the truck for what it is. If the goal is to take it down gravel fire roads, the “engineering” pictured above will no doubt make the truck less reliable in just about any situation.

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It was 2x worse before.
I have 8 extra shims now.
Ignore all the plates that has nofthing to do with the truck.

Gotcha. Like I said, not very knowledgeable on c10s. Good on you for getting out in the garage and getting your hands dirty. Not enough young people doing so anymore.

Are there any you tube videos about lifting a c10 by legit mechanics? What do they do and what’s a reasonable height with decent parts? I always thought the parts were built to complement each other on IFS systems that went beyond traditional leveling i.e. lift spindles and specially shaped LCAs/UCAs.

I saw a pretty badass looking trophy style build on a square. I’ll see if I can find it.

Frankenchevy said:

Gotcha. Like I said, not very knowledgeable on c10s. Good on you for getting out in the garage and getting your hands dirty. Not enough young people doing so anymore.

Are there any you tube videos about lifting a c10 by legit mechanics? What do they do and what’s a reasonable height with decent parts? I always thought the parts were built to complement each other on IFS systems that went beyond traditional leveling i.e. lift spindles and specially shaped LCAs/UCAs.

I saw a pretty badass looking trophy style build on a square. I’ll see if I can find it.

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I don't think there I'd many. There is one called project rocky that I've mentioned in a few threads. However they did their lift with some HD springs(whatever that means) and obs balljoints and spindles.

Most of my lift is coming from some 4.5" lift spindles that are made now. Along with a spring but we had to cut it down in order to get it to fit so I'm probobly only getting an extra inch if that. They're only .6 in above stock hight for springs. Everything seems to work together on the driver with almost no modifications.
The only thing we're trying to figure out is why we need so many spacers and why previous ppl with a 3" drop needed so many.

randomTruckKid said:

I don't think there I'd many. There is one called project rocky that I've mentioned in a few threads. However they did their lift with some HD springs(whatever that means) and obs balljoints and spindles.

Most of my lift is coming from some 4.5" lift spindles that are made now. Along with a spring but we had to cut it down in order to get it to fit so I'm probobly only getting an extra inch if that. They're only .6 in above stock hight for springs. Everything seems to work together on the driver with almost no modifications.
The only thing we're trying to figure out is why we need so many spacers and why previous ppl with a 3" drop needed so many.

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Order the correct studs from LMC or some other vendor.

Cut and excessive lowering springs require lots of shims.

Make sure the offset is correct on the control arm shafts

I think 1/2 Wheel studs from the local parts store will work, I looked some up by diamension for a different member once. As for the shims,I'd see if Moog makes a problem solver control arm shaft for your truck,I'll put a pic at the bottom the shaft is offset so you won't require as many shims. If I couldn't get offset control arms I'd make spacer blocks out of pieces of steel plate with holes drilled then run jus a shim or 2. Make the plates as big as you can to spread the load make them close to the needed thickness but not quite so they can still shim to final spec Tack them to the frame.

Ricko1966 said:

I think 1/2 Wheel studs from the local parts store will work, I looked some up by diamension for a different member once. As for the shims,I'd see if Moog makes a problem solver control arm shaft for your truck,I'll put a pic at the bottom the shaft is offset so you won't require as many shims. If I couldn't get offset control arms I'd make spacer blocks out of pieces of steel plate with holes drilled then run jus a shim or 2.

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That kinda looks like one of the ideas we had. We were thinking abt taking the old control arm shaft and using it as a giant shim after we welded the bolts. But if getting the studs would eliminate us having to do that.

What I meant for wheel studs,was instead of the bolts you are using. The pictured one isn't what you need but that's the style you need,serrated on one end 1/2 x ? Length. They come in different shank and knurl diameters.

I don't know what u dudes r talking about cuz I think it looks good! I like them pictures!

randomTruckKid said:

That kinda looks like one of the ideas we had. We were thinking abt taking the old control arm shaft and using it as a giant shim after we welded the bolts. But if getting the studs would eliminate us having to do that.

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You shouldn't need so many shims. Something is wrong with the suspension geometry if you have to shim it that much. If you used the C20 lower control arms, you need to use C10. It's a C10, use C10 components. Don't follow what was already on there, it could be wrong, do your homework, get the correct parts, and you won't be fighting this every step of the way. I still say you should have just bought a k10 and rocked the lowered c10. Since you want to keep moving forward with your lifted c10, make sure everything is correct for your safety and everyone around on the road as well. C10's were not meant to be lifted, so you are already going against the norm, just make sure it's safe. You'll find out in a hurry how sound your setup is as soon as you start driving washboarded gravel roads. It'll either take the beating, or fall apart like a house of cards.