Powerhouse Ranch
3G Connoisseur
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2021
- Posts
- 1,467
- Reaction score
- 2,632
- Location
- PA
- First Name
- Luke
- Truck Year
- 1980 & 1988
- Truck Model
- C25 & V15
- Engine Size
- 454 & 350
good point, thanks,
'88 TBI Build
- Thread starter Powerhouse Ranch
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
good point, thanks,
Rusty Nail
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2015
- Posts
- 10,041
- Reaction score
- 10,138
- Location
- the other side of the internet
- First Name
- Rusty
- Truck Year
- 1977
- Truck Model
- C20
- Engine Size
- 350sbc
Yep. Getcha some 1.5" headers . They sell collectors with O2 bungs in them, it's easy!
Powerhouse Ranch
3G Connoisseur
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2021
- Posts
- 1,467
- Reaction score
- 2,632
- Location
- PA
- First Name
- Luke
- Truck Year
- 1980 & 1988
- Truck Model
- C25 & V15
- Engine Size
- 454 & 350
something like this? Seems like too good of a deal to be true.
88-97 Chevy GMC Pick 5.0L / 5.7L Pick Up Stainless Racing Manifold Header Exhaust
Powerhouse Ranch
3G Connoisseur
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2021
- Posts
- 1,467
- Reaction score
- 2,632
- Location
- PA
- First Name
- Luke
- Truck Year
- 1980 & 1988
- Truck Model
- C25 & V15
- Engine Size
- 454 & 350
'tis almost upon us gents
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Rusty Nail
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2015
- Posts
- 10,041
- Reaction score
- 10,138
- Location
- the other side of the internet
- First Name
- Rusty
- Truck Year
- 1977
- Truck Model
- C20
- Engine Size
- 350sbc
Yep. You're gonna need collectors like these to screw your oxygen sensor into.
Prolly have to lengthen the wire - avoid using butt connectors there. They add too much resistance and foul the reading. Solder and heat shrink, k?
P. S.
-put the heat shrink on the wire first and then solder the splice.
You can do it!
Prolly have to lengthen the wire - avoid using butt connectors there. They add too much resistance and foul the reading. Solder and heat shrink, k?
P. S.
-put the heat shrink on the wire first and then solder the splice.
You can do it!
You must be registered for see images attach
Powerhouse Ranch
3G Connoisseur
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2021
- Posts
- 1,467
- Reaction score
- 2,632
- Location
- PA
- First Name
- Luke
- Truck Year
- 1980 & 1988
- Truck Model
- C25 & V15
- Engine Size
- 454 & 350
Yep. You're gonna need collectors like these to screw your oxygen sensor into.
Prolly have to lengthen the wire - avoid using butt connectors there. They add too much resistance and foul the reading. Solder and heat shrink, k?
P. S.
-put the heat shrink on the wire first and then solder the splice.
You can do it!
You must be registered for see images attach
basic wiring 101 of course. and trust me, I've learned that lesson ONE TO MANY TIMES haha. Thanks bud
Powerhouse Ranch
3G Connoisseur
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2021
- Posts
- 1,467
- Reaction score
- 2,632
- Location
- PA
- First Name
- Luke
- Truck Year
- 1980 & 1988
- Truck Model
- C25 & V15
- Engine Size
- 454 & 350
Alrighty. Still learning, bear with me. Had to get a new timing set due to roller swap. Took the old one off, there was no thrust bearing/plate. Is this unnecessary due to cam button?
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2010
- Posts
- 30,650
- Reaction score
- 28,966
- Location
- Usually not in Ohio
- First Name
- Andy
- Truck Year
- '77, '78, '79, '84, '88
- Truck Model
- K5 thru K30
- Engine Size
- 350-454
Basically, there's two common setups.
The original aftermarket type roller cam for use in all small blocks requires a cam button to keep the cam from walking. Use of a Torrington bearing (and a cam sprocket machined for it) is not a requirement, just an option.
The factory type roller cam used in '87 and newer small blocks. The cam has a "step nose" and works with a retaining plate that bolts to the block, no cam button needed. Not all '87-up blocks are machined for a roller cam setup since trucks didn't get them until sometime in the 90's. Some factory crate engines didn't get them either.
Based on your pictures, the lifter valley has no bosses for a roller lifter retainer and you have the aftermarket type roller cam installed?
Powerhouse Ranch
3G Connoisseur
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2021
- Posts
- 1,467
- Reaction score
- 2,632
- Location
- PA
- First Name
- Luke
- Truck Year
- 1980 & 1988
- Truck Model
- C25 & V15
- Engine Size
- 454 & 350
yes, i have a Summit stage 1 roller cam. I heard my piece on the bearing, but was told that the setup would need a cam button. Got the timing cover with one built in but the button is a hair too big. Not only am i to get a smaller one, but i've heard the steel vs nylon debate. And then came across the bearing debate and just wanted to confirm
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2010
- Posts
- 30,650
- Reaction score
- 28,966
- Location
- Usually not in Ohio
- First Name
- Andy
- Truck Year
- '77, '78, '79, '84, '88
- Truck Model
- K5 thru K30
- Engine Size
- 350-454
They also make brass cam buttons. As to which is better, I can't say. There's probably a bunch of opinions on that.
I've never used one yet, but they also offer a sturdy aluminum cover with a built-in adjustable stop for a cam button. I've always assumed that would be the most reliable way to go, regardless of cam button material, especially if using a Torrington bearing behind the cam sprocket.
I've never used one yet, but they also offer a sturdy aluminum cover with a built-in adjustable stop for a cam button. I've always assumed that would be the most reliable way to go, regardless of cam button material, especially if using a Torrington bearing behind the cam sprocket.
Powerhouse Ranch
3G Connoisseur
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2021
- Posts
- 1,467
- Reaction score
- 2,632
- Location
- PA
- First Name
- Luke
- Truck Year
- 1980 & 1988
- Truck Model
- C25 & V15
- Engine Size
- 454 & 350
Would you double up? Or is it a one or the other sort of thing?
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2010
- Posts
- 30,650
- Reaction score
- 28,966
- Location
- Usually not in Ohio
- First Name
- Andy
- Truck Year
- '77, '78, '79, '84, '88
- Truck Model
- K5 thru K30
- Engine Size
- 350-454
They aren't related actually. You need the cam button to prevent cam walk. The Torrington bearing behind the cam sprocket is to reduce wear and friction, but not required.
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2010
- Posts
- 30,650
- Reaction score
- 28,966
- Location
- Usually not in Ohio
- First Name
- Andy
- Truck Year
- '77, '78, '79, '84, '88
- Truck Model
- K5 thru K30
- Engine Size
- 350-454
I should also say, the Torrington bearing setup just floats between the cam sprocket and the engine block. It in no way shape or form acts as a retainer plate like on the factory roller cam blocks.
Powerhouse Ranch
3G Connoisseur
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2021
- Posts
- 1,467
- Reaction score
- 2,632
- Location
- PA
- First Name
- Luke
- Truck Year
- 1980 & 1988
- Truck Model
- C25 & V15
- Engine Size
- 454 & 350
it wouldn't hurt the block or sprocket to run without?
