'88 TBI Build

[Powerhouse Ranch]

hooker makes some, but no O2 sensor bung. you'd have to add it to the exhaust just after the manifold.

good point, thanks,

 

[Ricko1966]

I'd look at some lt1 manifolds off an impala,roadmaster,or caddy.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Yep. Getcha some 1.5" headers . They sell collectors with O2 bungs in them, it's easy!

 

[Powerhouse Ranch]

Yep. Getcha some 1.5" headers . They sell collectors with O2 bungs in them, it's easy!

something like this? Seems like too good of a deal to be true.

88-97 Chevy GMC Pick 5.0L / 5.7L Pick Up Stainless Racing Manifold Header Exhaust

www.protuninglab.com

 

[Powerhouse Ranch]

'tis almost upon us gents

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Rusty Nail]

Yep. You're gonna need collectors like these to screw your oxygen sensor into.
Prolly have to lengthen the wire - avoid using butt connectors there. They add too much resistance and foul the reading. Solder and heat shrink, k?
P. S.
-put the heat shrink on the wire first and then solder the splice.

You can do it!

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Powerhouse Ranch]

Yep. You're gonna need collectors like these to screw your oxygen sensor into.
Prolly have to lengthen the wire - avoid using butt connectors there. They add too much resistance and foul the reading. Solder and heat shrink, k?
P. S.
-put the heat shrink on the wire first and then solder the splice.

You can do it!

You must be registered for see images attach

basic wiring 101 of course. and trust me, I've learned that lesson ONE TO MANY TIMES haha. Thanks bud

 

[Powerhouse Ranch]

Alrighty. Still learning, bear with me. Had to get a new timing set due to roller swap. Took the old one off, there was no thrust bearing/plate. Is this unnecessary due to cam button?

 

[bucket]

Alrighty. Still learning, bear with me. Had to get a new timing set due to roller swap. Took the old one off, there was no thrust bearing/plate. Is this unnecessary due to cam button?

Basically, there's two common setups.

The original aftermarket type roller cam for use in all small blocks requires a cam button to keep the cam from walking. Use of a Torrington bearing (and a cam sprocket machined for it) is not a requirement, just an option.

The factory type roller cam used in '87 and newer small blocks. The cam has a "step nose" and works with a retaining plate that bolts to the block, no cam button needed. Not all '87-up blocks are machined for a roller cam setup since trucks didn't get them until sometime in the 90's. Some factory crate engines didn't get them either.

Based on your pictures, the lifter valley has no bosses for a roller lifter retainer and you have the aftermarket type roller cam installed?

 

[Powerhouse Ranch]

Basically, there's two common setups.

The original aftermarket type roller cam for use in all small blocks requires a cam button to keep the cam from walking. Use of a Torrington bearing (and a cam sprocket machined for it) is not a requirement, just an option.

The factory type roller cam used in '87 and newer small blocks. The cam has a "step nose" and works with a retaining plate that bolts to the block, no cam button needed. Not all '87-up blocks are machined for a roller cam setup since trucks didn't get them until sometime in the 90's. Some factory crate engines didn't get them either.

Based on your pictures, the lifter valley has no bosses for a roller lifter retainer and you have the aftermarket type roller cam installed?

yes, i have a Summit stage 1 roller cam. I heard my piece on the bearing, but was told that the setup would need a cam button. Got the timing cover with one built in but the button is a hair too big. Not only am i to get a smaller one, but i've heard the steel vs nylon debate. And then came across the bearing debate and just wanted to confirm

 

[bucket]

They also make brass cam buttons. As to which is better, I can't say. There's probably a bunch of opinions on that.

I've never used one yet, but they also offer a sturdy aluminum cover with a built-in adjustable stop for a cam button. I've always assumed that would be the most reliable way to go, regardless of cam button material, especially if using a Torrington bearing behind the cam sprocket.

 

[Powerhouse Ranch]

They also make brass cam buttons. As to which is better, I can't say. There's probably a bunch of opinions on that.

I've never used one yet, but they also offer a sturdy aluminum cover with a built-in adjustable stop for a cam button. I've always assumed that would be the most reliable way to go, regardless of cam button material, especially if using a Torrington bearing behind the cam sprocket.

Would you double up? Or is it a one or the other sort of thing?

 

[bucket]

Would you double up? Or is it a one or the other sort of thing?

They aren't related actually. You need the cam button to prevent cam walk. The Torrington bearing behind the cam sprocket is to reduce wear and friction, but not required.

 

[bucket]

I should also say, the Torrington bearing setup just floats between the cam sprocket and the engine block. It in no way shape or form acts as a retainer plate like on the factory roller cam blocks.

 

[Powerhouse Ranch]

I should also say, the Torrington bearing setup just floats between the cam sprocket and the engine block. It in no way shape or form acts as a retainer plate like on the factory roller cam blocks.

it wouldn't hurt the block or sprocket to run without?