I have several projects planned this year for my square, and I’m wondering if I should be stocking up on the parts now, before the 25% tariffs policy goes into effect. Is anyone else thinking of doing the same? Why or why not?
Not trying to make this about politics...
Thanks everyone for your advice. G80/MLocker is no longer an option I’m considering. I’m leaning now towards the TrueTrac but I want to keep researching to better understand the pros and cons versus a clutch type lsd.
Thanks again.
Looking for confirmation here as to whether purchase of a new Eaton MLocker is even an option for my rig. Seems like it would be, but my inquiries to Eaton and its closest retailer have been unsuccessful. Eaton’s website has a recommendation function but it only points me to its aftermarket...
I live in the Northern Virginia area near Washington, DC. I started tackling some rust under the two-tone trim, but now I'm looking for a shop to take it over the finish line and tackle other issues like taco hood and a poor bed panel repair.
Does anyone have experience with any of the shops...
Similar to @mrghostwalker, I have an original TH350 and am looking to upgrade so that I can use overdrive on the interstate and save on gas. Mine is a 1980 C10 Big 10 with a CBC 350, 4-bbl Q-jet, and P235/75R15 tires. No idea what the gear ratio is or how to find it.
I want to tow a simple...
I think 1980 was the last year of the Big 10’s, thanks to EPA changes to GVW emissions exemptions. The Big 10’s had to wear catalytic converters that year. I pulled out my sun visor to fix the cracked vinyl, and I’m smiling at the catalytic converter sticker on the back. It’s almost as if EPA...
I just used one of those add-on pigtails to run constant power to a new stereo head unit in the headliner (for the memory). I tapped into the horn/cab light fuse. This video helped:
I’m just starting my research on spacers, so this might be a dumb question: to minimize play, wouldn’t it make more sense not to use anti-seize and instead put bare metal on metal and let rust help bond them together?
UPDATE: I looked again at the primer that the BAPS automotive paint store recommended for my project, and I no longer think it's epoxy even though they said it is an epoxy without a hardener (i.e., not 2k). Here's a link to the actual product. I care less about whether it's epoxy than I do about...
Interesting. That would seem to me that the turn signal would send a higher voltage than what the parking lights receive when the switch is on. Nevertheless, I‘ll order some replacement bulbs and see if that fixes it. Thanks!