Intake Manifold RTV Dry Times

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Old60Driver

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Howdy y'all!

Going to be doing a quick intake install this weekend but have very limited time to do it before I need to use the K20 for some hauling.

What I normally do is a healthy bead along the china walls, wait until it sets a bit, then set the intake on. Wait for an hour, then torque her down. I'll usually wait 24 hours, BUT, like I mentioned, I need to use the truck the next morning-ish.

If I put this thing on at let's say, 10 PM, do you think the RTV (I'm thinking gray or black) will be cured enough to run her the next day, say around noon?

'Preciate y'alls input!
 

DoubleDingo

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Longer wait time would be better, but you should be okay. And definitely use black or grey. I made the mistake of using blue and had to redo it because of an oil leak.
 

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Hands down the absolute best gasket sealer ever invented.
Seals better, dries faster, and lasts forever.
I have used it to successfully patch slashed sidewalls on off road tires and it held up 100%.
If you this product on a clean dry surface, it will NEVER leak.
For valve cover gaskets, you can bolt them on and run the engine right away, no need to even let it dry!


No, I don't own stock in the company. I'm just a huge fan of the product.

NOTE: Cram a bolt in the tip of the tube when its not being used. If let open, the tube will turn into a tube of solid rubber.
 

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Bextreme04

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I was going to suggest the same thing as edelbrock. Right stuff will be ready to use in 90 minutes. Use the same process as you have for regular RTV, but it will be fully cured and ready to go same day.
 

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For me I'm good with any black or gray for use as valley seal in the manifold. But the right stuff is a cut above the regular stuff as the others have said and if I needed to get the truck back in service the same day that's what I'd use as well. However don't under estimate the amount of time it'll take you to do the intake manifold.
 

SirRobyn0

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Never tried the right stuff, only watched the movie. I'll buy some before my next intake project to try it out
The biggest downfall is it's expensive. At the shop we have regular black and gray. That's our go to one or the other of those. And we also have gray right stuff. The biggest difference between the gray and the black is gray has more adhesive in it. So gray right stuff is what we use on harder to seal stuff or when we need to put it on thick and have it dry a bit quicker. It's good stuff for sure.
 

Old60Driver

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Thanks y'all!!

Regarding the right stuff, how quickly do I need to move on it? IE, I usually let reg'lar RTV tack up for a bit before I put the intake on. Do I just do it immediately after applying with this stuff?

Also, how difficult will removing the intake later be (if I have to)?

Thanks again!
 

Old60Driver

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For me I'm good with any black or gray for use as valley seal in the manifold. But the right stuff is a cut above the regular stuff as the others have said and if I needed to get the truck back in service the same day that's what I'd use as well. However don't under estimate the amount of time it'll take you to do the intake manifold.
You're not kidding about the estimation on time. That has burned me more times than McDonald's coffee!!

The cool thing is, my son is going to be helping me (IE doing all the work). He's been raring to dig deeper into an engine beyond a water pump for a while now. I've allocated some time for that. Some of my favorite memories are from being under the hood, or under the car with my old man. Hoping to give my son some of those same core memories. :)
 

fast 99

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Working in a shop setting, no time to wait on sealers. Have installed intakes with both regular automotive RTV and Right Stuff and sent them down the road in a couple hours, no issues.
Important part is clean surfaces.
 

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Thanks y'all!!

Regarding the right stuff, how quickly do I need to move on it? IE, I usually let reg'lar RTV tack up for a bit before I put the intake on. Do I just do it immediately after applying with this stuff?

Also, how difficult will removing the intake later be (if I have to)?

Thanks again!
I believe the instructions say apply the sealer, then immediately set the other part in place and allow to set up for ~15-30 minutes(read the instructions yourself because my memory sucks). Then torque to spec. It basically evens everything out and adheres to the two parts evenly when you set it in place loose, then hardens the outer shell up enough to make an oring type effect for when you torque it down. I especially like it for diff covers that are notorious for leaking. Right stuff will keep it sealed up tight forever.
 

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Regarding the right stuff, how quickly do I need to move on it? IE, I usually let reg'lar RTV tack up for a bit before I put the intake on. Do I just do it immediately after applying with this stuff?
No, makes sure the parts are clean and assemble immediately. As far as I know the only seals with tack up times left are going to be the like the old blue stuff and honestly there is no reason to be using that anymore. Regular black, gray and right stuff is just light years ahead.
Also, how difficult will removing the intake later be (if I have to)?
Won't make it any harder.
You're not kidding about the estimation on time. That has burned me more times than McDonald's coffee!!
I think for me part of it is my weight, and folding myself up for the amount of time it takes to do an intake manifold is difficult so it takes longer. Also when pulling an intake that hasn't been off in 20 years, even if nothing goes wrong it just takes a great deal of extra time being clean and making sure nothing gets in the valley as I pull the intake off.
The cool thing is, my son is going to be helping me (IE doing all the work). He's been raring to dig deeper into an engine beyond a water pump for a while now. I've allocated some time for that. Some of my favorite memories are from being under the hood, or under the car with my old man. Hoping to give my son some of those same core memories. :)
No kids for me, but that sounds like the way to. Plus it's way easier on your back!
 

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.....I think for me part of it is my weight, and folding myself up........
That made me recall back in 2014 when I had just stabbed the engine back in the '81 and was reinstalling the passenger side exhaust manifold. I had just got my body tucked in there to get the back bolt started when my neighbor drove up and started honking for me to come out and talk. I ignored his honks, and he eventually walked up. I told him there was no way I was coming back out from under the hood after just getting settled-in where I was...lol...
 

Old60Driver

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I believe the instructions say apply the sealer, then immediately set the other part in place and allow to set up for ~15-30 minutes(read the instructions yourself because my memory sucks). Then torque to spec. It basically evens everything out and adheres to the two parts evenly when you set it in place loose, then hardens the outer shell up enough to make an oring type effect for when you torque it down. I especially like it for diff covers that are notorious for leaking. Right stuff will keep it sealed up tight forever.
Roger that, thanks. Good call on the diff covers. It's on my list. ;)
 

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