It's here!!!

[SquareRoot]

I needed to address the upper radiator hose. You see, with the serpentine drive and my aftermarket aluminum radiator, I had to figure out a hose that fit the bill. The upper hose is an OEM hose for a 67 Firebird with a sb 400.

Only problem was it sagged under the weight and touched the back of the alternator. So, I fabricated a support bracket that uses the alternator mounting bolt. Functionally, it works perfect!

I plan to fire the beast up tommorow.

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[eskimomann209]

I needed to address the upper radiator hose. You see, with the serpentine drive and my aftermarket aluminum radiator, I had to figure out a hose that fit the bill. The upper hose is an OEM hose for a 67 Firebird with a sb 400.

Only problem was it sagged under the weight and touched the back of the alternator. So, I fabricated a support bracket that uses the alternator mounting bolt. Functionally, it works perfect!

I plan to fire the beast up tommorow.

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That’s what I’m talking about. Fab skills to the rescue. One thing that blows my mind is people having to pay for something like that. Owning and knowing how to use a welder is an irreplaceable skill set.

is the lower part held against the alt to keep it from spinning? looks like a single bolt hole for a mount.

 

[SquareRoot]

Thumbs up emoji!

Yes, the lower bolt goes thru the bracket. It's a 3/8th bolt and once tightened it doesn't move. Very simple. Made from 1/8inch x 1 inch wide steel from the hardware store.

 

[78C10BigTen]

Hey y'all. Got a few pix here of the install. It's been slow going due to other things going on. One of the big time consumers is the wiring. I've had to pull unused wires out of loom, run new wire, etc. I try to install the wiring like factory for reliability. I run wire, crimp the terminals, solder it, heatshrink over it, loom it and clamp it. Very time consuming.

As you can see, so much for a clean, uncluttered engine compartment! Between the Vintage Air, Dakota Digital guages, serpentine drive , remote fuel sump and dual electric fans...it gets busy.

Anyway, I'll add some details about the install soon. Just wanted to give an update. Hope to fire it up in a day or two.

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Love the air cleaner!

 

[eskimomann209]

Hey!? is that one of them ole remote oil filters next to the sump? Above the evap canister ?

I mean it looks like it’s plumbed to the sump... but my pic angle isn’t that good.

 

[SquareRoot]

Love the air cleaner!

That Edelbrock air cleaner is a piece of art! It came free with the kit, a promotion from Summit. It's too pretty to use on my truck. I'm gonna hang it in the man cave. The GM air cleaner I already had works just fine. I looked it up at Summit and it goes for $129.99!

 

[SquareRoot]

Hey!? is that one of them ole remote oil filters next to the sump? Above the evap canister ?

I mean it looks like it’s plumbed to the sump... but my pic angle isn’t that good.

No. That's a low pressure Fram cannister style fuel filter.; 10 micron element. I added s 40 micron high pressure filter after the sump in case the high pressure pump self destructs.

 

[78C10BigTen]

That Edelbrock air cleaner is a piece of art! It came free with the kit, a promotion from Summit. It's too pretty to use on my truck. I'm gonna hang it in the man cave. The GM air cleaner I already had works just fine. I looked it up at Summit and it goes for $129.99!

I like the eddy one but i meant that black and red chevy one! Ive always wanted that black and red chevy dress kit!

 

[Rusty Nail]

I own a pair of elite valve covers to match, TALL even.

Make offer?
You got dibs!

 

[Frankenchevy]

Looking forward to hearing your feedback on this system. I’m thinking of picking one up to try out.

 

[SquareRoot]

Ok, it's up and running. First impression...HELL YA!

After priming the fuel system. It fired up instantly. It went to 1100 rpm for about 10 seconds and then slowly came down to 750. Idled perfectly like a brand new vehicle. At that point I verified the timing was at 12 degrees btdc. As soon as it hit 160 degrees it went into " learn mode." With this system you use the app on your phone. It give you several screens to display data in real time. During the wizard setup you enter some engine parameters and it gives you the proper bade map to install. This map will be very close to your engines final tune.

I have two issues:

1. The tach feed does not work with my Dakota Digital guages. I also squired some static noise in my high end stereo system. I will call DD tomorrow for guidance. They sell a can buss module specifically for the Pro-flo 4 system. That allows the ton of information from the Pro-flo to display on the Dakota guages, including the tach.
2. IAC position at idle. It says to set it between 5-15%. Mine says zero. However, the engine runs GREAT so I'm not overly concerned. The IAC controls the idle. When I put it in gear and/or turn the AC on it hold the idle instantly at 600 rpm.

This system is so far beyond the POS Sniper I had it's not even funny! It's only self tuning in the sense it modifies the base map to achieve the best air fuel ratio at idle, cruise and WOT. 90% of folks would be ecstatic with the performance of the base map.

So I will drive it and wait for the corrections to minimize and then save that map as my new base.

Seriously, I reach thru the drivers window and turn the key and it fired instantly. No more cranking for 5 seconds, no setting the choke, no dieseling run on, no more gas fumes, no more eye watering exhaust. Better milage, throttle response, engine longevity.

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[Frankenchevy]

2. IAC position at idle. It says to set it between 5-15%. Mine says zero.

Is there an idle adjust screw? The IAC will add air to increase idle. If the idle screw is too far in(throttle blades more open) the IAC will completely shut. If you back the screw out(throttle blades more shut) the IAC will open to bring idle up.

If you back the throttle screw out, it’ll shut the throttle blades some and open the IAC to bring the idle back up to what you’ve told the ECU you want it at. Maybe give that a shot once the CTS reads above 160.

You’re probably aware, but the IAC is basically a controlled vacuum leak.

 

[SquareRoot]

I can back the screw all the way out (not even touching the Linkage), put my finger over the IAC port and the engine will still idle.

I've completely disconnected the charcoal filter vacuum line for now. Tonight, I'm going to unhook the brake booster, the trans vacuum line and the PCV. There has to be a vacuum leak somewhere?

 

[Rusty Nail]

Nice loking compartment.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I can back the screw all the way out (not even touching the Linkage), put my finger over the IAC port and the engine will still idle.

I've completely disconnected the charcoal filter vacuum line for now. Tonight, I'm going to unhook the brake booster, the trans vacuum line and the PCV. There has to be a vacuum leak somewhere?

Quite possibly. Maybe buy one of those vacuum line cap size assortments from the dorman help wall and cap off all ports. Should make it easier to troubleshoot.