Working over a motor

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QBuff02

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I wouldn't worry about a windage tray for your application. Just based off of your cam specs it's not going to be an extremely high revving engine, and they are more for controlling oil flow/wrap on the counterweights of the crank and air bubbles in the oil caused from turbulence at high rpm's and the crank slinging the oil. They're different from a crank scraper also. If you're going to spin it 5,000 or less the majority of the time i'd put the extra $100 elsewhere in the engine or ignition.
 

Dutch Rutter

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Just my worthless .02 but "better to have it and never actually need it than to need it and not have it"! Same holds true for firearms!:cheers:


This was my other thought as well. I'll keep it as is without for now, but if I have strange fluctuating oil pressure I'll add one. As for ignition I have a ACCEL HEI that will be going in and some taylor cut to fit wires. Also ended up ordering Lokar's throttle, and 700r4 TV kit. Plus some other go fast bits. One of those projects which starts small and adds up quickly. Hoping it will be a pretty decent mild-med setup for the truck.
 

Dutch Rutter

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Update for the end of this weekend. Installed a two piece dip stick (first time actually using a lower tube), the fuel pump, balancer, timing tab, verified zero TDC for the balancer and pointer is accurate, put on head gaskets, sat on the heads and lifters.

Coming together pretty well. Next week should have heads torqued, valves all adjusted, and maybe setting down the intake manifold.

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Dutch Rutter

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Here is the latest. Got the valve train all in an initial adjustment done, water pump on, valve covers on, intake down. Then had to pull the Oil pan to put in the steel oil pump drive rod that I forgot to install and could not from the top. Re-torqued oil pan bolts. Then taped up intake and coolant hoses. It'll be sitting like this until we do the transplant. Pretty happy with it so far.

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Dutch Rutter

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Well, its been a long while and a lot of hard work and long nights but we got it in yesterday and today I was able to get her running. Went through the cam break in. And some base line adjustments. I still need to get the timing dialed in, carb fine tuned, and the Lokar 700r4 TV cable adjusted up (its pretty close currently if a little on the tight side)

Now I did run into a slight problem, I put the working water temp sending unit into my aluminum heads and its connected to the wire but my gauge only shows past the H and does not move at all. It was working perfectly well before being installed in these heads. Would this be a ground issue? and if so how can I correct this?
 

Dutch Rutter

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Did you use Teflon tape ?

I did at first, then after thinking it over removed the tape and put the sender back in, with no change at the gauge. Could I run a jumper wire from the frame and tie it to the sender to test the bad ground idea?

I suppose the threaded hole could still have some tape in it, I'll try pulling it again, cleaning up the threads and putting it back in.

Also I am finding my carb tune to be off some which is proving to be a royal pain in my ass. set the timing at 12* intial which runs well everywhere except idle to 1300 RPM. Going to try and find someone local to help dial her in. Might be the old carb finally needs replaced.
 
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Dutch Rutter

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Got that temp sensor issue fixed. Pinched the wire between the block and bellhousing. Ended up needing a new carb and a fuel pump. Went with an edelbrock performer 1405 and added an electric choke. Just changed out the break in oil (500mi) with lucas 10w30 "hot rod" flat tappet oil. Things seem to be adjusted, tuned and running great. Heres the final product, at least until I get some new headers on it.

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AuroraGirl

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Got that temp sensor issue fixed. Pinched the wire between the block and bellhousing. Ended up needing a new carb and a fuel pump. Went with an edelbrock performer 1405 and added an electric choke. Just changed out the break in oil (500mi) with lucas 10w30 "hot rod" flat tappet oil. Things seem to be adjusted, tuned and running great. Heres the final product, at least until I get some new headers on it.

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That's a nice looking engine. Whats the tap in your PCV run to?
 

Dutch Rutter

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That's a nice looking engine. Whats the tap in your PCV run to?

Thanks it did take some time getting it all together. It goes back to a theee way vac valve that used to feed the cruise control (now removed) and then to a vac canister on the driver's fender.

The thing pictured, really have no idea what this one goes to. I know the identical one on the passenger side feeds the hvac.

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AuroraGirl

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I hate vacuum. right now vacuum does two things on my truck and that is PCV and brake booster. And maybe one of these days just PCV if I do hydroboost.
 

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