Windshield pinch weld / frame

[bluecamden85]

Took out windshield today. it was leaking all over. Sides, top ,and bottom all were leaking in random spots. Before I took it out ,the windshield gasket was sticking out on all corners. ( Not flat with the body) . I see someone put seam sealer on frame maybe from factory. I got a place to put new windshield in next Friday. The pinch weld frame has little rust and 1 or 2 dents. Do I have to get all the old seam sealer off? Or will it be ok for the company to put it in like that without it leaking. I'll do some sanding and a little bit of wire brush but don't want to get it down to bare metal.

 

[bluecamden85]

Here's some pics

 

[Grumpy]

I would strongly recommend taping it off and using some plastic or cardboard, then beg, borrow or steal a small sand blaster to completely remove all the corrosion before sealing with a quality epoxy - something with an etchant in it. This is your best chance to nip the rust in the bud before you have major structural issues.

Harbor Freight has an example:

Gravity Feed Abrasive Blaster Gun with 20 oz. Hopper

Amazing deals on this Gravity Feed Blaster Gun, 20 0Z Hopper at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

This will work fine for the small jobs when used with a modest air compressor. If I am not mistaken, Home Depot may have compressors available for rental.
For blast media, I prefer copper slag (just my preference) over sand.
Do the deed on a nice dry day, blow off all excess dust, wipe with acetone and paint immediately.

Then you are good to go.

 

[bluecamden85]

Thanks I think I can do that my brother in law has a compressor.

 

[fast 99]

Suggest you spend quite a bit of time sealing up the interior. Sand WILL get everywhere and it's hard to clean out. Seal up the air vents, steering column and everything else you can think of.

Speaking from experience here. It's no fun crawling under a dash and getting a pile of sand in the eyes.

POR15 is a very good sealer for bare metal and rust.

 

[GMT830]

Not to dismiss the sandblast idea but a wire wheel or cup will accomplish the same result. Spray the bare metal with an epoxy primer and send it to the glass shop.

 

[bluecamden85]

I might do the wire wheel . I don't have por 15 but I got the loctite extend neutralizer. Has one one tried it? I also picked up raptor 4 in 1 primer paint. I heard it's ok. I think I'll wire wheel it then put on the loctite then spray paint. The shop said 3 hundred new gasket and windshield. I told them I got the old gasket. But they said no warranty with the old gasket. The old gasket was good so I don't know why it leaked everywhere. Last people that had it just tryd to put silicone everywhere to stop it.

 

[GMT830]

Just buy the gasket and be done in one shot.

 

[bluecamden85]

The company I'm go to is supplying the gasket don't know which one . I got the one that has no lock strip. The last windshield cracked when I took it out.

 

[Grit dog]

Wire wheel takes all that off pretty quick. The rust and the original sealant. Your windshield frame is still in good shape.
Of all places on our 86, there was zero rust anywhere on the truck, except the windshield and back window frames. And I cut/welded, patched over a dozen places so take care of it now while it's just a clean up and repaint task.

Good news was I found out all the rusted out areas had rusted from the outside - in. So it hadn't spread past what was visible. You have the best case scenario since no rust through it appears.

You will end up getting some of it to bare metal, so it really doesn't matter how much is bare when you're done prepping it.
Many different materials will work fine for re-coating it. Por15 or similar followed by primer and paint. Epoxy primer followed by paint. Or just a good direct to metal primer and paint.

 

[Grit dog]

I'd also consider adding a couple more drain holes near the middle of the windshield. Mine kept water trapped in the middle as it was rusted there pretty good. I actually just enlarged some rust holes into drain holes but absent of that, I'd drill out a couple more spots.

 

[bluecamden85]

Yeah I like that idea of more drain holes. I'll probably add two more in the middle like u mentioned. I think the place said there going to use urethane. I've seen people say yes and no on that. Don't wanna block the drains.

 

[CalSgt]

Acetone will turn the old sealant soft pretty quick, yours looks exactly like the sealant that was on mine.

I prefer the stripper wheels to a wire wheel, they come in every size & shape. The roloc disc type or one that will fit in the arbor of a die grinder would fit your application well. These will definitely take the paint off too, but if it's already rusting you might as well get down to clean bare metal and coat it with epoxy.

Probably a good idea to straighten the pinch seam where the big dents are too

 

[Grit dog]

I also rust proofed the inside all around the window frame with the spray can hose nozzle deal. Seemed like $25 well spent. Although I had plenty of holes (from rust and the visor mounting screws) to use. Not sure I’d do that on yours since I found mine wasn’t rusted on the inside.
Regarding sealing the gasket to the sheet metal. I debated on that and ultimately didn’t use any sealant. In retrospect if I had, I would have made a big mess while getting the window in. But maybe the pros wouldn’t.
Most of the online video tutorials don’t use any.
However I haven’t tested the water tightness at all since there has been literally 0.0” of rain in Seattle area since June which is when I put the windows back in. Haven’t even washed the truck yet…lol

 

[Grit dog]

Btw if you’re ever planning on re painting the truck and will just be doing a quick scuff n squirt job, now is a good time to get matching paint around the window so you can just mask it off and don’t have to remove it again later.