Will this lift fit my k5/jimmy?

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82jimmy

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Alfonso
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1982
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k5
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350
I agree that if it's just a street driven, looks cool type of build an open diff 10 bolt will last a long time. The factory Gov Lock locking differential is extremely light duty and fails easily which in turn takes out other parts.

Going with a tall lift you'll likely need a CV joint at the tcase and then cut & turn the diff to rotate the pinion up, that should fix any lift vs driveshaft angle problems. Whatever you do, don't drop the tcase crossmember! Some folks do this in an attempt to relieve the rear driveshaft angle but it worsens the front angle and sometimes causes the frame to crack at the bolts (depending on how it's done, abuse, etc).

In addition to the lift, consider things like steering box braces and the XJ steering shaft mod. Crossover steering is a great mod but not always necessary, especially for a street truck. All of those can noticeably improve and tighten the steering feel. If you stay with push/pull steering be sure to get enough corrective parts, you want the drag link to be very close to horizontal.
thanks for the great advice as well . this will help a lot i will be writing everything down and make sure i take all of this into consideration.
 

PrairieDrifter

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I daily a 5 inch lift on 35's. Real daily. I wasn't saying don't do it, I was saying it was the worst choice for big lift and mostly street. I'd hate for someone to build their "dream truck" and find out it rides and drives like complete ****, then they sell it or let it rot. And lose a bunch of money.

To be fair comparing a crew cab long box for drive ability isn't a good comparison. The longest and heaviest vs the shortest and lightest. They will be miles apart in driving experience.

Also anyone who says their stock steering doesn't kind of suck off-road is straight lying. Either not really wheeling or just straight lying. Yes you can drive "around" it but the problem still exists. They won't turn if in big skinny ruts or all twisted up. It's just what it is.

Rotate the pinion too high for driveshaft angles, then you run the risk of starving the pinion bearings of oil.

Again build whatever you want to look how you want, but you should really plan ahead for the future before doing mods. Do you want to build it five times fixing what you don't like or build it once with some tinkering after? Do you want to enjoy driving it?

People can do whatever they want. But criticism and cons are necessary for discussion. Why learn things the hard way when many others have done it before us.
 

82jimmy

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El Paso Texas
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Alfonso
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1982
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k5
Engine Size
350
People can do whatever they want. But criticism and cons are necessary for discussion. Why learn things the hard way when many others have done it before us.
i appreciate your opinion and argument. will take into consideration maybe a smaller lift. i also daily a 6 inch on 35s so i know the struggles of owning a lifted daily. Unfortunately but fortunately ive dove down this rabbit hole of squarebodys . I have seen many videos and i definitely wouldn’t be the first lifted k5 around i’m sure i’ll get it right at some point
 

bucket

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Yes and no, the front springs and hardware will fit your Blazer HOWEVER, the rear u-bolts and 56" springs will not. The rear u-bolts will be for a 14 bolt which has bigger axles tubes than a 10 bolt and Blazers have 52" rear springs.

Since the kit looks to include rear blocks in the 2.5"-3" range, those could be ommited and a 2.5" shackle flip used instead. That would allow for use of the 56" springs. @82jimmy you would then only need different u-bolts for your 10-bolt. Places like ORD sell the shackle flip kits and u-bolts too.
 

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