Where to go for alignment?

[F-64]

I usually do it myself. You can get the stuff from Intercomp, Longacre, Smart Strings, Caliper Garage(budget Smart Strings), and several other sources.

But a long time ago I took my truck to Dallas Frame and Alignment. I had to set my alignment to non-stock settings.
They were equipped to do large buses, RV's, limos. They did the measurements manually. See if you can find a frame shop in Houston that does long vehicles if you don't want to attempt it yourself.

Or call up the guys from Texas Metal tv show, as they are in Houston, and see where they take their lifted trucks for alignment.

Ekstensive Metal Works Ekstensive Metal Works - Made - Texas Metal

Ekstensive Metal Works - Texas Metal - We specialize in one off custom cars and trucks. As a custom automotive shop we strive to serve our customers with the highest quality most reliable builds in the industry. Texas Metal Velocity Network - Houston -

www.ekstensive.com

Longacre Toe Measurement Tools

www.longacreracing.com

Intercomp Racing | Intercomp - Toe Plates

www.intercompracing.com

SmartStrings | Smart Racing Products

Our tools are unique in that they simultaneously align and “square” the car, insuring that the rear axle is running true and parallel to the front axle.

smartracingproducts.com

Caliper Garage

3D printed alignment kits that make professional race car alignments possible on even the tightest budgets.

calipergarage.com

 

[Grit dog]

@Dano500, if the steering is still sloppy, don’t spend any unnecessary $ getting it aligned, assuming it’s not pulling bad to one side and assuming you’re not putting a lot of miles on currently and chewing up tires.
Either systematically go through the rest of the steering components that cause slop, aside from what you’ve replaced already.
Tie rods, drag link and steering shaft are the big 3 left that could be or are sloppy/worn out. All pretty easy to check. Rod ends and drag link, just watch em as someone else turns the wheel slightly back n forth a little. If you can visually see any slop or rocking in them, they’re bad enough to feel while driving. Steering shaft rag joint is another likely wear item and similar method to check although imo it’s a little tough to verify, maybe just me.
Old bomber truck though it’s likely pooched and those are cheap, about $50 or if you’re serious about long term and lots of miles, Jeep steering shafts are popular replacement that is said to be even better than a new rag joint. (Look it up, it’s a popular modification/replacement).
Or if you’re just throwing in the towel and taking it somewhere, I’d suggest trying to scope out a good private repair shop. Not Firestone, Les Schwabs etc. Them types of places just live on upselling.
Of course none of us can diagnose much over the internet. So these are recommendations.
If you just want to center up the steering wheel and point the tires straight, that is not technically too difficult. Assuming you got the Pittman back on about right, let the steering box/wheels self center. IE rolling forward and backwards no hand holding the steering wheel. Then just adjust the drag link to center up the steering wheel. And test drive. Maybe a half dozen trial and errors until you get it centered up. But it’s not too hard to do as long as the drag link isn’t froze up.
Remember if ANY components are sloppy, it will make the steering wheel “feel” off center as you’ll have to compensate more for road crown. (Not to be confused with road Crowns (and Cokes)! Lol)
Also if the Pittman arm nut isn’t properly torqued down it will make the steering sloppy even with everything else good.

 

[JamesSam]

WOW, you guys are getting $49 for an Alignment?????? I'm still doin' it for $20 and beer!!!!..........But I only work on what I WANT to!!!!

@idahovette , if you weren't so far away I would ask if you would help me put new fuel lines in and get both my tanks switching and working. LOL!

 

[idahovette]

@JamesSam ....I don't want to!!!!!........lol

 

[RetroC10Sport]

I go to a shop in Austin called Brothers Alignment.

 

[JT58]

I had a shop do some work for me- new tie rod ends, new steering box and spring bushings all the way around. They were trying to get a software update for their alignment machine after the mechanical work was done. I end up waiting 2 weeks for that, letting the truck sit there. I finally got tired of waiting and picked the truck up. I figured the truck was too old, who know how long it would take, if they could even do it. It pulled to the right very badly so I did my own alignment with the bars and string, jack stands, etc. like in the post. It worked great, truck now tracks great and the steering wheel is centered now as well.

 

[David King]

Took mine to a local Truck Outfitters that raise and lower trucks. $130.00

 

[justhorns]

I paint two parallel lines on the garage floor, usually 72" apart. One side must be perfectly straight. I paint the lines with a level or other long straight edge. Perhaps for a square you may need more that 72", like 75".
Drive the truck between the lines. I use a carpenters square to measure from the line on the floor to the front of the wheel lip, halfway up the wheel. Measure both sides. Then do a little math. 75-(right side measure) + (left side measure). Do the same for the back of the front wheels. You now have 2 numbers. The difference is your toe. Wider at front is toe out. Wider at rear is toe in. Make adjustments and you may have to do it again. I can use this method and get within 1/16". Most times after I put a complete suspension in, I do this to drive it to alignment shop. They look at me and say.. Its right on, no adjustment needed after verifying with their hunter wiz bang. Camber is easy. Especially with 4WD. Use the level in your phone. Caster needs to be done with a fancy expensive machine. I'll take a few pictures to show what I am talking about.

 

[Ricko1966]

I paint two parallel lines on the garage floor, usually 72" apart. One side must be perfectly straight. I paint the lines with a level or other long straight edge. Perhaps for a square you may need more that 72", like 75".
Drive the truck between the lines. I use a carpenters square to measure from the line on the floor to the front of the wheel lip, halfway up the wheel. Measure both sides. Then do a little math. 75-(right side measure) + (left side measure). Do the same for the back of the front wheels. You now have 2 numbers. The difference is your toe. Wider at front is toe out. Wider at rear is toe in. Make adjustments and you may have to do it again. I can use this method and get within 1/16". Most times after I put a complete suspension in, I do this to drive it to alignment shop. They look at me and say.. Its right on, no adjustment needed after verifying with their hunter wiz bang. Camber is easy. Especially with 4WD. Use the level in your phone. Caster needs to be done with a fancy expensive machine. I'll take a few pictures to show what I am talking about.

Caster does not need an expensive machine,just an angle finder and some math. Turn the wheels 20 degrees left of center,check camber,turn the wheels 20 degrees right of center,,check camber. The difference between the 2 readings x 1.5 is caster.Also Caster is a non wear angle. So as long as the truck drives straight don't worry about it.

 

[Dano500]

@Grit dog thNks for the info. When I first started looking at it, it was easy for me to grab steering shaft eith my hand and twist back and forth and watch the gear at top of steering box twist with shaft. I checked out the rag joint and I didn’t find any play at all. With twisting the shaft, there was no movement at pitman arm.
I did the little trick to tighten the bolt on the gear box and that helped A LOT, but you know what I notice now? The steering wheel is always in different positions. Wth

After I tighten that up, and I first took it out, the wheel was fairly lined up, although it wasn’t perfect. As I went through my route and turning the wheel I started noticing that as I was driving straight, the wheel was almost turned a complete 180 from upright, and as I kept going through turns to get back to my place, it ended up almost back to where it started. I guess, the only two things that can be in that situation is the rag joint up top and the loose Pitman arm, bolt below, correct? Oh, and another weird thing, the turning radius is much sharper to the right then it is to the left. A very significant difference.

 

[Grit dog]

@Grit dog thNks for the info. When I first started looking at it, it was easy for me to grab steering shaft eith my hand and twist back and forth and watch the gear at top of steering box twist with shaft. I checked out the rag joint and I didn’t find any play at all. With twisting the shaft, there was no movement at pitman arm.
I did the little trick to tighten the bolt on the gear box and that helped A LOT, but you know what I notice now? The steering wheel is always in different positions. Wth

After I tighten that up, and I first took it out, the wheel was fairly lined up, although it wasn’t perfect. As I went through my route and turning the wheel I started noticing that as I was driving straight, the wheel was almost turned a complete 180 from upright, and as I kept going through turns to get back to my place, it ended up almost back to where it started. I guess, the only two things that can be in that situation is the rag joint up top and the loose Pitman arm, bolt below, correct? Oh, and another weird thing, the turning radius is much sharper to the right then it is to the left. A very significant difference.

It’s not really possible to have the steering return to a different center randomly (In don't think?) Even if it’s sloppy and wore out. Although just the road crowning opposite directions could mean a significant angle diff on the steering wheel holding the truck straight. (180deg would seem excessive though).
If it’s turning tighter one direction than the other, then you have issues with the steering wheel/shaft and or drag link being off a number of splines from center in the steering gear and center what’s above and below the steering box. You gotta get the box centered (easy if it returns to center like it should when you’re driving straight ) and make sure you’re hooking up the steering shaft on the right spline where it’s closest to the same turns lock to lock.
And the drag link figures in as well. I’m not an expert it’s still a little bit of a jigsaw puzzle to me but think steering shaft centered when mounting to steering gear (centered) and that’s most of the battle.