Where to go for alignment?

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Dano500

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Where do you guys go for alignment? I keep hearing “we don’t have the software for that.”
 

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You might inquire at a local body shop, they typically send cars and trucks out for alignment all the time
 

mtnmankev

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When you do find a shop to handle the task, be prepared to shell out a flock of dollars in labor time charges.
4x4's use a tapered shim behind the hub and the disassembly/reassembly to install them can be expensive.
 

Ricko1966

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Where do you guys go for alignment? I keep hearing “we don’t have the software for that.”
Learn to align it yourself,it's not that hard and the tools you'll need will pay for themselves quickly,if you are handy you can improvise most of the tools. If you want to learn,ask I'll teach you what I can. I'd learn to do a string alignment,use 2 chalk lines for string,just because you can wind them up when your done 2 pieces of conduit and 4 jack stands. You'll also need a bubble level,or angle finder and some floor tiles as shims for level.

Thread 'Wheel Alignment DIYs Heres a good read and short videos for wheel alignment.' https://www.gmsquarebody.com/thread...d-and-short-videos-for-wheel-alignment.38712/
 
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CalSgt

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Set the toe and center the steering wheel…

Make yourself a set of toe bars (or buy them for like $80)
Set the axle on jack stands
Set the toe in in the front by 1/16” - 1/8” using the tie rod adjuster
Put everything back together
Alignment done!

If the steering wheel is not centered
Adjust the drag link until it is

There isn’t much you can do for caster or camber, (camed upper ball joint sleeves maybe) and if thrust angle is off far enough to notice something is broken.

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Ricko1966

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Set the toe and center the steering wheel…

Make yourself a set of toe bars (or buy them for like $80)
Set the axle on jack stands
Set the toe in in the front by 1/16” - 1/8” using the tie rod adjuster
Put everything back together
Alignment done!

If the steering wheel is not centered
Adjust the drag link until it is

There isn’t much you can do for caster or camber, (camed upper ball joint sleeves maybe) and if thrust angle is off far enough to notice something is broken.

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I was thinking string alignment because if it's a mystery truck he'll be able to tell if the rear is shifted. My 02 cents. More cents later of he decides to do it.
 

CalSgt

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I was thinking string alignment because if it's a mystery truck he'll be able to tell if the rear is shifted. My 02 cents. More cents later of he decides to do it.
All good… I was typing when you posted or I probably would have given you some credit. Stringing is a great way to measure for alignment, and I’m confident you can explain how to get it done.

I personally wouldn’t bother with strings unless it was crabbing down the road. There are no adjustments at either axle for thrust angle so if it drives crookedly, something is broken or installed wrong.
 

Dano500

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Thanks for all the help/ advice! This seems somewhat overwhelming. I don’t own any of this stuff except jack stands. The steering was real sloppy when I bought this project truck and I have changed pitman arm, steering box and sway bar bushings, but it’s only about 25% better.

I was hoping I could get a pro to look at it and align and tell me what else could be wrong to keep steering loose? And, yes the steering wheel is pretty crooked from center. Lol
 

Dano500

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Set the toe and center the steering wheel…

Make yourself a set of toe bars (or buy them for like $80)
Set the axle on jack stands
Set the toe in in the front by 1/16” - 1/8” using the tie rod adjuster
Put everything back together
Alignment done!

If the steering wheel is not centered
Adjust the drag link until it is

There isn’t much you can do for caster or camber, (camed upper ball joint sleeves maybe) and if thrust angle is off far enough to notice something is broken.

You must be registered for see images attach
What do I measure to set toe in? Like where? How do you make those lines straight? This is above my head.

Why would we need to get alignment if it seems so hard to get out of alignment.
 

CalSgt

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Thanks for all the help/ advice! This seems somewhat overwhelming. I don’t own any of this stuff except jack stands. The steering was real sloppy when I bought this project truck and I have changed pitman arm, steering box and sway bar bushings, but it’s only about 25% better.

I was hoping I could get a pro to look at it and align and tell me what else could be wrong to keep steering loose? And, yes the steering wheel is pretty crooked from center. Lol
Check your hubs first, jack up each side then quickly and forcefully rock the tire up/down, like pushing the top of the tire towards the engine and pulling it away. Sometimes a pry bar can be used between the pavement and bottom of the tire to add a little extra force to this job. There shouldn’t be any noticeable movement except maybe some jiggle in the tire itself. If there is movement it can be ball joints or hub bearings typically.

Do the same thing but force the tire like it is turning right/left. Should be no movement. If there is it can be worn steering components or hub bearings.

Then after it is sitting back on the ground.

Have someone saw back and forth rapidly on the steering wheel, they only need to turn the wheel far enough to feel tension 4-8” movement or so in the steering wheel and just slight movement at the tires. lay under the front and inspect each point where things connect. There shouldn’t be any loss of motion or looseness in the joints.

Pitman arm to steering box
Pitman arm to drag link
Drag link to knuckle
Knuckle to tie rod (both sides)
Any real obvious movement and you should replace that part, tie rod end etc.

Pay attention to the frame where the steering box mounts, they’re famous for cracking and breaking there.

Pop the hood and look at the rag joint that connects the steering shaft to the box. It can wiggle a little bit shouldn’t be sloppy.

Look at the bushings in the leaf springs where they bolt to the frame/shackles. These can move or wiggle a little but shouldn’t be sloppy or loose.

After you’ve finished inspecting everything, if it’s all good check the toe.

Disclaimer: If you can’t read a tape measure accurately then don’t bother trying my method.

I made toe adjustment bars from 1” angle iron about 36” long (2 of them). It’s just a piece of angle iron with a few holes drilled in it to fit over the wheel studs. I jack up the front end, set on jack stands as close to ride height as possible, put the toe bars on and have the bars sit close to parallel to the ground, with a tape measure I carefully check the measurement from side to side. The front measurement should be 1/16” to 1/8” narrower than the measurement between the rear.

If making toe bars is outside of your skill level, you can make a scribe tool. Take a piece of plywood or something, drive a nail through it, bend the nail slightly and sharpen it. Jack up one front tire enough to spin it by hand. Slide the scribe tool up to where it just touches the tread of the tire. Stand on your scribe tool to keep it still while rotating the tire. The sharp scribe will leave a line on the tread of the tire. Do this to both sides. Have someone help you measure the distance between the lines at the front and rear of the tires. The front measurement should be 1/16” to 1/8” narrower than the measurement between the rear.

To adjust the toe loosen the pinch bolts on the tie rod adjuster and turn the adjustment sleeve to lengthen or shorten the tie rod. This can be a real PIA if the adjustment sleeve hasn’t been moved in a long time and everything is rusted. Soak everything in some penetrating oil a few times in the days before attempting.

Good luck Dan, I’ve had a few glasses of wine so hopefully I typed everything in comprehendible English

ETA: If you make toe bars, they don’t need to be torqued tight. Finger tight with a few lug nuts will suffice, if you crank them down the bars can bend.
 

Ricko1966

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What do I measure to set toe in? Like where? How do you make those lines straight? This is above my head.

Why would we need to get alignment if it seems so hard to get out of alignment.
The fun part about alignments is if you listen to manufacturers,if you need an alignment somethings worn or bent and needs replaced,bushings,springs,tie rods etc, luckily we have some adjustment and some aftermarket support to get the tires back into non wear angles to compensate for worn components. What's even more fun is when the shop sells alignments at a price lower than the tech can do it without losing money. The pitch is ,yea you cant do them for that,but you'll sell,springs,ball joints,tie rods,etc. No I won't the customer just wants a 49.99 alignment
 

CalSgt

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The fun part about alignments is if you listen to manufacturers,if you need an alignment somethings worn or bent and needs replaced,bushings,springs,tie rods etc, luckily we have some adjustment and some aftermarket support to get the tires back into non wear angles to compensate for worn components. What's even more fun is when the shop sells alignments at a price lower than the tech can do it without losing money. The pitch is ,yea you cant do them for that,but you'll sell,springs,ball joints,tie rods,etc. No I won't the customer just wants a 49.99 alignment
lol… $49 alignment

Until you need cam bolts
 

Ricko1966

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lol… $49 alignment

Until you need cam bolts
That's what I'm saying that was Firestones pitch to the techs,oh you'll sell hundreds of dollars in bolts,ball joints etc. , no 99% of people turn it down so I test drove them, I racked them shook them down, checked alignment waited an hour for customer approval,then pulled them off the rack when the alignment was a no sale. No sale means,no pay. When you're flat rate. Another fun one is customer says brake lights don't work every since you changed the spark plugs,find out what's going on. I did nothing to the turn signals yea but we gotta keep the customers happy,no pay .
 
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