Thanks for all the help/ advice! This seems somewhat overwhelming. I don’t own any of this stuff except jack stands. The steering was real sloppy when I bought this project truck and I have changed pitman arm, steering box and sway bar bushings, but it’s only about 25% better.
I was hoping I could get a pro to look at it and align and tell me what else could be wrong to keep steering loose? And, yes the steering wheel is pretty crooked from center. Lol
Check your hubs first, jack up each side then quickly and forcefully rock the tire up/down, like pushing the top of the tire towards the engine and pulling it away. Sometimes a pry bar can be used between the pavement and bottom of the tire to add a little extra force to this job. There shouldn’t be any noticeable movement except maybe some jiggle in the tire itself. If there is movement it can be ball joints or hub bearings typically.
Do the same thing but force the tire like it is turning right/left. Should be no movement. If there is it can be worn steering components or hub bearings.
Then after it is sitting back on the ground.
Have someone saw back and forth rapidly on the steering wheel, they only need to turn the wheel far enough to feel tension 4-8” movement or so in the steering wheel and just slight movement at the tires. lay under the front and inspect each point where things connect. There shouldn’t be any loss of motion or looseness in the joints.
Pitman arm to steering box
Pitman arm to drag link
Drag link to knuckle
Knuckle to tie rod (both sides)
Any real obvious movement and you should replace that part, tie rod end etc.
Pay attention to the frame where the steering box mounts, they’re famous for cracking and breaking there.
Pop the hood and look at the rag joint that connects the steering shaft to the box. It can wiggle a little bit shouldn’t be sloppy.
Look at the bushings in the leaf springs where they bolt to the frame/shackles. These can move or wiggle a little but shouldn’t be sloppy or loose.
After you’ve finished inspecting everything, if it’s all good check the toe.
Disclaimer: If you can’t read a tape measure accurately then don’t bother trying my method.
I made toe adjustment bars from 1” angle iron about 36” long (2 of them). It’s just a piece of angle iron with a few holes drilled in it to fit over the wheel studs. I jack up the front end, set on jack stands as close to ride height as possible, put the toe bars on and have the bars sit close to parallel to the ground, with a tape measure I carefully check the measurement from side to side. The front measurement should be 1/16” to 1/8” narrower than the measurement between the rear.
If making toe bars is outside of your skill level, you can make a scribe tool. Take a piece of plywood or something, drive a nail through it, bend the nail slightly and sharpen it. Jack up one front tire enough to spin it by hand. Slide the scribe tool up to where it just touches the tread of the tire. Stand on your scribe tool to keep it still while rotating the tire. The sharp scribe will leave a line on the tread of the tire. Do this to both sides. Have someone help you measure the distance between the lines at the front and rear of the tires. The front measurement should be 1/16” to 1/8” narrower than the measurement between the rear.
To adjust the toe loosen the pinch bolts on the tie rod adjuster and turn the adjustment sleeve to lengthen or shorten the tie rod. This can be a real PIA if the adjustment sleeve hasn’t been moved in a long time and everything is rusted. Soak everything in some penetrating oil a few times in the days before attempting.
Good luck Dan, I’ve had a few glasses of wine so hopefully I typed everything in comprehendible English
ETA: If you make toe bars, they don’t need to be torqued tight. Finger tight with a few lug nuts will suffice, if you crank them down the bars can bend.