Where does negative battery cable ground wire attach?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Bextreme04

Full Access Member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Posts
4,445
Reaction score
5,586
Location
Oregon
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
Here’s a short clip, just doesn’t start right up like it does after it has been started already.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
Well.. that rules out electrical. You are getting a good strong crank, so you don't have bad grounds. It looks and sounds like you need to tune and adjust the timing and carb.

Are you a member of the PNW K5 & Squarebodies group? They are based up in your area. If you are going to the annual BBQ next weekend, we could probably help you tune it up in just a few minutes(Timing, idle mixture, choke).

Are you pressing the pedal to the floor and letting off before trying to crank? That will engage the choke, squirt a shot of fuel in, and put it up on the high idle cam.
 

tophat36

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2022
Posts
93
Reaction score
112
Location
Bremerton, WA
First Name
Jessica
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
C2500
Engine Size
350-4 V8
Well.. that rules out electrical. You are getting a good strong crank, so you don't have bad grounds. It looks and sounds like you need to tune and adjust the timing and carb.

Are you a member of the PNW K5 & Squarebodies group? They are based up in your area. If you are going to the annual BBQ next weekend, we could probably help you tune it up in just a few minutes(Timing, idle mixture, choke).

Are you pressing the pedal to the floor and letting off before trying to crank? That will engage the choke, squirt a shot of fuel in, and put it up on the high idle cam.
Well that’s a relief, and man I can’t believe it but I’ll be out of town that one weekend and can’t be there….damn that would be so amazing….I requested to join that group, can’t thank you enough for the suggestion and your opinion!
 

Camar068

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2014
Posts
4,296
Reaction score
3,342
Location
Kentucky
First Name
David
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K10/LM7 5.3/4L60e/np208/3.73/32"
Engine Size
10 yrs Air Force
Should also have a strap from block to body. Redundant grounds are your friend.
Amen! Battery to block or alt bracket, then each side of block to frame, then each side of block to cab, and then frame to radiator support on both sides.
 

tophat36

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2022
Posts
93
Reaction score
112
Location
Bremerton, WA
First Name
Jessica
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
C2500
Engine Size
350-4 V8
Well.. that rules out electrical. You are getting a good strong crank, so you don't have bad grounds. It looks and sounds like you need to tune and adjust the timing and carb.

Are you a member of the PNW K5 & Squarebodies group? They are based up in your area. If you are going to the annual BBQ next weekend, we could probably help you tune it up in just a few minutes(Timing, idle mixture, choke).

Are you pressing the pedal to the floor and letting off before trying to crank? That will engage the choke, squirt a shot of fuel in, and put it up on the high idle cam.
Tried that and it was worse than before. After a while of it crankihg, I stopped and stepped on the brake. Then it started up. Took off the air filter and took a look at the carb. Appears to be the M4MC Quadrajet style. Snapped a pic to see if there’s anything to tell by looking at it. Front flap is open a little which I don’t know if that is normal or not. I feel like messing with carbs can really get things out of wack in a hurry, at least with the moped I had. Looks a little dirty, what’s recommended? I would say this is original and hasn’t ever been fooled with, like most of the truck.
 

Attachments

  • 1690441179101.jpeg
    1690441179101.jpeg
    161.7 KB · Views: 60

Bextreme04

Full Access Member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Posts
4,445
Reaction score
5,586
Location
Oregon
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
I stopped and stepped on the brake.
Is this right? Or do you mean stepped on the gas again?

There are two screws on the front of the base of the carb. Those adjust idle mixture. There are a few things that probably need to be looked at and done to get it to fire right up. Mechanically, the first thing I would do would be to hook a vacuum gauge up to check idle vacuum(should be 18-22 on a stock engine) and then compression test the engine. Then check all of the hoses and likely areas for vacuum leaks. Then, I would climb on top of the engine, hold the choke flap open, and manually push the throttle open(engine OFF). You should see a stream of fuel shooting into the venturi's. If you don't, then you have a fuel drainback issue or the accelerator pump is shot. That would rule out common mechanical issues. Then I would set base timing, set idle mixture, set hot idle, then let it cool down(overnight is best). When you go to start it up the next morning, you press the pedal to the floor and let up to make sure the choke is set and you are on the high idle cam. Then fire it up and set the cold idle(screw on the passenger side of carb) to about 900rpm at first start. It will climb to about 1200-1400 as it warms in my experience.

I'm glad you signed up for the group, Victoria is good people and there are lots of good resources in the Bremerton area too. I'm down in Oregon so I have only ever made it to the BBQ when they have it down here. They do have quite a few meetups around there and I'm sure you could find someone with the right specialty tools and experience to help you get it tuned up right. Also, you MIGHT be close enough(I still can't wrap my head around how close any of the seattle area cities are to each other) to just pay @SirRobyn0 shop to do the tuning and adjustments if it isn't something you know how to do or are comfortable doing yourself. If not, he might be able to point you to a reputable shop that is closer to you.

I'm actually doing a bunch of work to mine this weekend including draining the coolant to change a leaking lower radiator hose, so while I was at it I thought it would be the perfect opportunity to change my stock iron intake manifold for the edelbrock performer intake I have sitting in my shop. I'm also putting back in a better distributor I have at the same time, so I'll try and take a video or three and post up a tutorial on how to set up initial timing, idle mixture, and hot and cold idle speeds.
 

SirRobyn0

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Posts
6,755
Reaction score
11,402
Location
In the woods in Western Washington
First Name
Rob
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
305
@tophat36 & @Bextreme04 I'd be happy to tune it at the shop. Bremerton and Redmond are not really that far but there Puget sound is in between us so it's either a bit of a drive around or a ferry ride which personally I always pick the ferry as I get to just sit in the truck and relax. I do have a few folks that come from farther away to the shop.

It's very possible that the carb is original and hasn't been messed with. I have a 77 Cadillac 425 with Q-jet on it that I don't think has ever been opened up.

It's possible your carb might need a rebuild, but it's also very possible that it just needs to be tuned, either that means you following Eric's advice and try it yourself or a shop. There is also a friend of mine with a shop in your area that I could refer you to if you prefer.
 

tophat36

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2022
Posts
93
Reaction score
112
Location
Bremerton, WA
First Name
Jessica
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
C2500
Engine Size
350-4 V8
Is this right? Or do you mean stepped on the gas again?

There are two screws on the front of the base of the carb. Those adjust idle mixture. There are a few things that probably need to be looked at and done to get it to fire right up. Mechanically, the first thing I would do would be to hook a vacuum gauge up to check idle vacuum(should be 18-22 on a stock engine) and then compression test the engine. Then check all of the hoses and likely areas for vacuum leaks. Then, I would climb on top of the engine, hold the choke flap open, and manually push the throttle open(engine OFF). You should see a stream of fuel shooting into the venturi's. If you don't, then you have a fuel drainback issue or the accelerator pump is shot. That would rule out common mechanical issues. Then I would set base timing, set idle mixture, set hot idle, then let it cool down(overnight is best). When you go to start it up the next morning, you press the pedal to the floor and let up to make sure the choke is set and you are on the high idle cam. Then fire it up and set the cold idle(screw on the passenger side of carb) to about 900rpm at first start. It will climb to about 1200-1400 as it warms in my experience.

I'm glad you signed up for the group, Victoria is good people and there are lots of good resources in the Bremerton area too. I'm down in Oregon so I have only ever made it to the BBQ when they have it down here. They do have quite a few meetups around there and I'm sure you could find someone with the right specialty tools and experience to help you get it tuned up right. Also, you MIGHT be close enough(I still can't wrap my head around how close any of the seattle area cities are to each other) to just pay @SirRobyn0 shop to do the tuning and adjustments if it isn't something you know how to do or are comfortable doing yourself. If not, he might be able to point you to a reputable shop that is closer to you.

I'm actually doing a bunch of work to mine this weekend including draining the coolant to change a leaking lower radiator hose, so while I was at it I thought it would be the perfect opportunity to change my stock iron intake manifold for the edelbrock performer intake I have sitting in my shop. I'm also putting back in a better distributor I have at the same time, so I'll try and take a video or three and post up a tutorial on how to set up initial timing, idle mixture, and hot and cold idle speeds.
I meant that I swapped over to the brake instead of the gas pedal and then it started up….Dang that’s a lot of detailed info, thank you! I will try what I feel comfortable with. I’d have to go rent a vacuum gauge or buy one…don’t have anything like that yet in my tool repertoire. My dad did just send me a vintage timing light from his farm so I do have one of those, lol whether it works or not is another story. I’ll take any videos you got fixing stuff like that, won’t be doing that stuff for a while though. Baby steps!
 

tophat36

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2022
Posts
93
Reaction score
112
Location
Bremerton, WA
First Name
Jessica
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
C2500
Engine Size
350-4 V8
@tophat36 & @Bextreme04 I'd be happy to tune it at the shop. Bremerton and Redmond are not really that far but there Puget sound is in between us so it's either a bit of a drive around or a ferry ride which personally I always pick the ferry as I get to just sit in the truck and relax. I do have a few folks that come from farther away to the shop.

It's very possible that the carb is original and hasn't been messed with. I have a 77 Cadillac 425 with Q-jet on it that I don't think has ever been opened up.

It's possible your carb might need a rebuild, but it's also very possible that it just needs to be tuned, either that means you following Eric's advice and try it yourself or a shop. There is also a friend of mine with a shop in your area that I could refer you to if you prefer.
Oh nice, how much does something like that cost to have done? I actually don’t mind driving, I live in Bremerton but drive to Kent everyday for work. If you’re in Seattle I’d just take the ferry over…agreed on the just sitting and relaxing instead of being in traffic. Honestly the truck runs pretty well considering that it wasn’t really given anything except oil changes for the last 20 years. The delayed starting and some slight sputtering like it could possibly die when sitting at a light for a long time but it never does. I’m not super concerned about it but would really just like to know it’s “healthy” and functioning the best it can. Will take all the help I can get!
 

Dryriver1

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2023
Posts
766
Reaction score
2,264
Location
Texas
First Name
Robert
Truck Year
1984, 1999,
Truck Model
1984 Chevy Silverado K10, 1999 Chevy 2 door Tahoe 4x4
Engine Size
350 cid, 5.7
Hello TopHat36! Hope all is well.

Be ready to get some smack, pokes, some $hits, from the guys.
None are meant to insult or hurt anybody as far as I have been here.
I am also new here and I will tell you they are a great bunch of helpful members as long as we don't take it personal or get carried away as we got some Moderators that are like watchdogs ready to set anyone straight.

It is a great site as I visited several for a long time and all I saw was infighting and insulting in them.

Hope your truck comes along great soon.

And like Mr. Clean advised... "take your time and do it right."

Oh... and as Rusty Nails said "open the hood" :wave:

Be well and stay safe out there.
Best wishes to you and all of your loved ones always!

Dryriver1
 

Dryriver1

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2023
Posts
766
Reaction score
2,264
Location
Texas
First Name
Robert
Truck Year
1984, 1999,
Truck Model
1984 Chevy Silverado K10, 1999 Chevy 2 door Tahoe 4x4
Engine Size
350 cid, 5.7
Oh nice, how much does something like that cost to have done? I actually don’t mind driving, I live in Bremerton but drive to Kent everyday for work. If you’re in Seattle I’d just take the ferry over…agreed on the just sitting and relaxing instead of being in traffic. Honestly the truck runs pretty well considering that it wasn’t really given anything except oil changes for the last 20 years. The delayed starting and some slight sputtering like it could possibly die when sitting at a light for a long time but it never does. I’m not super concerned about it but would really just like to know it’s “healthy” and functioning the best it can. Will take all the help I can get!
My suggestion try and make it out to SirRobyn0.
Just IMHO.

Best wishes to you and all of your loved ones always!
 

SirRobyn0

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Posts
6,755
Reaction score
11,402
Location
In the woods in Western Washington
First Name
Rob
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
305
Oh nice, how much does something like that cost to have done? I actually don’t mind driving, I live in Bremerton but drive to Kent everyday for work. If you’re in Seattle I’d just take the ferry over…agreed on the just sitting and relaxing instead of being in traffic. Honestly the truck runs pretty well considering that it wasn’t really given anything except oil changes for the last 20 years. The delayed starting and some slight sputtering like it could possibly die when sitting at a light for a long time but it never does. I’m not super concerned about it but would really just like to know it’s “healthy” and functioning the best it can. Will take all the help I can get!
The shop is in Redmond, I like to take the ferry to Kingston and shoot down the highway. So the first thing I'd want to do is assess the truck. I would figure $80 - $200 to give it a good look it over, adjust the carburetor, replace any leaky vacuum lines, maybe a new air filter ect. If it needs anything beyond $200 (for example if the carburetor needed to be overhauled), I'd call you. It's super hard guess at cost / needs on these old trucks until we have seen them. I will always do my best to keep it as low cost as I possibly can for any members of the forum. When I was last at the shop on Thursday we were booking for August 14th and later. We'd want the truck for at least one full day, if possible I'd prefer to have it a couple days so I can fire it up and watch it run as it warms up, and then have time to tinker with it until I've got it to where it needs to be.

Let me know what you think.
 

tophat36

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2022
Posts
93
Reaction score
112
Location
Bremerton, WA
First Name
Jessica
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
C2500
Engine Size
350-4 V8
The shop is in Redmond, I like to take the ferry to Kingston and shoot down the highway. So the first thing I'd want to do is assess the truck. I would figure $80 - $200 to give it a good look it over, adjust the carburetor, replace any leaky vacuum lines, maybe a new air filter ect. If it needs anything beyond $200 (for example if the carburetor needed to be overhauled), I'd call you. It's super hard guess at cost / needs on these old trucks until we have seen them. I will always do my best to keep it as low cost as I possibly can for any members of the forum. When I was last at the shop on Thursday we were booking for August 14th and later. We'd want the truck for at least one full day, if possible I'd prefer to have it a couple days so I can fire it up and watch it run as it warms up, and then have time to tinker with it until I've got it to where it needs to be.

Let me know what you think.
Sounds good and super fair! Once I get more stuff done and get it to a place where I’m ready to have a professional give him some attention, I will definitely take you up on that. Actually oddly enough I hopped in the truck tonight to try starting again. Pressed my foot on the gas pedal and off. Hit the brake and it started right up. First time that’s happened. Maybe I just had to find the right sequence…will see if I can repeat that tomorrow.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,204
Posts
951,603
Members
36,339
Latest member
stickshiftsteve
Top