blueburban87
Junior Member
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2022
- Posts
- 9
- Reaction score
- 17
- Location
- Fort Mill, sc
- First Name
- Chris
- Truck Year
- 1987
- Truck Model
- Suburban
- Engine Size
- 355
Howdy gang, This post will just be my experience and what worked best in my application.
You may be looking for something similar or already made the swap
did you ever sort out your voltage issues... I did, and ran a CS130 to AD244. Best upgrade in an old truck especially if your going to EFI and electric fans. The older trucks CS130 worked fine due to either Carburation ( TBI units didnt pull much nor did the fuel pump) driver side CS130 to AD244 bracket works perfect, just us a Grade 8 1/4 3" bolt and add your ground to that as well, there is enough space. the Painless wire with Diode worked perfect if you have the original CS130 plug that only had two wires. OR if you had more wires there is an adaptor that is plug and play, I'll leave links.
Back to the why you want to upgrade to an AD244 (Why I did)
IF you have EFI, AC, Electric fans. ( Not even mentioning if you upgraded your sound system)
Its not that you need all the amps, its you need the amps at Idle the CS130 is good for 40 ish at idle and the ad244 is good for 100 amps. That's a game change if you want all your voltages happy around 13.8-14.2
as you can imagine the CS130 wasn't built for all the new modern upgrades and will leave you stranded if you do any electrical upgrades that will add up to 40amps at idle, over heating your alternator, burning things up, failing and all the stuff that sucks.
About Oldblue
- 1987 Suburban
- Engine swap in 2020
- Blueprint BP3503CT1 ( Roller Vortec head engine)
- Holley Gen 1 Sniper
- Hyperspark ignition, Timing table managed in software ( IMO, this is a must combo)
- Dual SPAL 1775 CFM fans ( 23 amp run amps & 40 amp kick on)
- Side note, follow the Holley instructions to a T. Also in my experience to eliminate RFI/EMI noise just loom any wire you terminate individually and keep away from POwer wires ( sparkplug wires, alternator + wire) ( also another reason to go to AD244 with the internally regulated dual internal fan setup) ( CS130 is regulated as well, seems the AD244 is cleaner signal though)
Here are two harness options.
I went with the Painless options since My CS130 had only two wires.
I cut the end off, and followed the Painless instructions, ( Just a drawing but works)
Pink from the new pigtail to the Factory harness Brown
Brown form the pigtail to solder resister ( slip heat shrink on first) to factory brown/black or what ever color you have.
OR
ALTERNATOR CONVERSION PLUG ADAPTER KIT For GM CHEVY CS144 TO CS130D AD244 AD237
Next post will be my Charcoal canister story and what I did about it. ( Hint.... the fuel vents and doesn't put hydrocarbons in the air nor over pressurizes the tank)
You may be looking for something similar or already made the swap
did you ever sort out your voltage issues... I did, and ran a CS130 to AD244. Best upgrade in an old truck especially if your going to EFI and electric fans. The older trucks CS130 worked fine due to either Carburation ( TBI units didnt pull much nor did the fuel pump) driver side CS130 to AD244 bracket works perfect, just us a Grade 8 1/4 3" bolt and add your ground to that as well, there is enough space. the Painless wire with Diode worked perfect if you have the original CS130 plug that only had two wires. OR if you had more wires there is an adaptor that is plug and play, I'll leave links.
Back to the why you want to upgrade to an AD244 (Why I did)
IF you have EFI, AC, Electric fans. ( Not even mentioning if you upgraded your sound system)
Its not that you need all the amps, its you need the amps at Idle the CS130 is good for 40 ish at idle and the ad244 is good for 100 amps. That's a game change if you want all your voltages happy around 13.8-14.2
as you can imagine the CS130 wasn't built for all the new modern upgrades and will leave you stranded if you do any electrical upgrades that will add up to 40amps at idle, over heating your alternator, burning things up, failing and all the stuff that sucks.
About Oldblue
- 1987 Suburban
- Engine swap in 2020
- Blueprint BP3503CT1 ( Roller Vortec head engine)
- Holley Gen 1 Sniper
- Hyperspark ignition, Timing table managed in software ( IMO, this is a must combo)
- Dual SPAL 1775 CFM fans ( 23 amp run amps & 40 amp kick on)
- Side note, follow the Holley instructions to a T. Also in my experience to eliminate RFI/EMI noise just loom any wire you terminate individually and keep away from POwer wires ( sparkplug wires, alternator + wire) ( also another reason to go to AD244 with the internally regulated dual internal fan setup) ( CS130 is regulated as well, seems the AD244 is cleaner signal though)
Here are two harness options.
I went with the Painless options since My CS130 had only two wires.
I cut the end off, and followed the Painless instructions, ( Just a drawing but works)
Pink from the new pigtail to the Factory harness Brown
Brown form the pigtail to solder resister ( slip heat shrink on first) to factory brown/black or what ever color you have.
You must be registered for see images attach
Painless Performance 30705 CS-130D Style Internal Fan GM Alternator Pigtail
https://a.co/d/iqkcVkrOR
ALTERNATOR CONVERSION PLUG ADAPTER KIT For GM CHEVY CS144 TO CS130D AD244 AD237
ALTERNATOR CONVERSION PLUG ADAPTER KIT For GM CHEVY CS144 TO CS130D AD244 AD237 | eBay
CAN BE USED TO CONVERT CS144 ALTERNATORS TO CS130D,AD244,AD237 UNITS. EXISTING CS130 PLUG GOES INSIDE THE FEMALE ADAPTER TO CONVERT OR USE MALE PLUG ON CS130D,AD244,AD237 TYPE OF ALTERNATORS. 4 PIN CS130D PLUG CONNECTOR HARNESS AND CS130 ADAPTER.
www.ebay.com
Next post will be my Charcoal canister story and what I did about it. ( Hint.... the fuel vents and doesn't put hydrocarbons in the air nor over pressurizes the tank)
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