What would you pay for this truck?

[CountKrunk]

Head further north! look further from the coast. So north and west haha

 

[bucket]

Oh yeah. 10 years ago I would have charged him to take it away. You're used to rust repair? How rough will that be for someone who doesn't have experience?

I haven't welded for maybe 10 years. My last career I was a master technician. I've welded for custom work and exhaust work but never panel repair.

I'm wanting to tackle the floor first as I can hide my screw ups with carpet lol.

How rough of a job it would be is largely dependent on how much additional rust is or isn't there and how much you want to repair rather than replace. Replacing the fenders, doors and bedsides is a lot simpler than repairing them.

 

[Robmiami84]

How rough of a job it would be is largely dependent on how much additional rust is or isn't there and how much you want to repair rather than replace. Replacing the fenders, doors and bedsides is a lot simpler than repairing them.

I know the fenders and doors. This one's fenders are a bit complicated because it looks like where they bolt on at the bottom by the door is rotted.

What's this about the bedsides though? I figured they were at least a bit challenging to line up correctly. They aren't cheap either.

 

[BigT]

I wouldn't pay anything for it. Too much work, and it's not 4 wheel drive!

 

[bucket]

I know the fenders and doors. This one's fenders are a bit complicated because it looks like where they bolt on at the bottom by the door is rotted.

What's this about the bedsides though? I figured they were at least a bit challenging to line up correctly. They aren't cheap either.

Not as challenging as doing straight bodywork that holds up over time. Other than some tack welds at the rear, the bedsides bolt on. As for the fenders... the quality of the repair panels is always poor at best, they take some fabrication to make fit properly. Even with just rust in that one area, replacing the fender is always easier. Especially if you get a quality stamping. And yep, expensive. You have to pay to save labor.

 

[Robmiami84]

I wouldn't pay anything for it. Too much work, and it's not 4 wheel drive!

I suppose everyone is different. I've passed on 4x4s. They go pretty cheap down here.

 

[Grit dog]

Oh yeah. 10 years ago I would have charged him to take it away. You're used to rust repair? How rough will that be for someone who doesn't have experience?

I haven't welded for maybe 10 years. My last career I was a master technician. I've welded for custom work and exhaust work but never panel repair.

I'm wanting to tackle the floor first as I can hide my screw ups with carpet lol.

The welding is the easiest part of it. All you’re doing is 1000 spot welds. Can do even if you can’t lay a bead on anything. The cut/fit, cut some more, fit some more requires the skill.

 

[Grit dog]

I know the fenders and doors. This one's fenders are a bit complicated because it looks like where they bolt on at the bottom by the door is rotted.

What's this about the bedsides though? I figured they were at least a bit challenging to line up correctly. They aren't cheap either.

No, that’s what most are saying. This truck is a lot of work. More than it’s worth unless maybe you have a field of clean sheetmetal looking for a home.
Plus if I’m reading into your comments correctly, a rotted out project that may need a motor too presents other challenges for you.
IMO the only 2 ways restoring something that literally needs rust work about everywhere and is otherwise barely alive is an emotional attachment from the past, or the time, skills, tools, space and hopefully a field full of clean squarebody sheetmetal.
This ain’t the truck imo.

 

[TotalyHucked]

Rust repair is PITA, period. I just now saw you're in Florida. If traveling is an option, I'd be looking in South Ga/Alabama for some cleaner stuff. Some of our R&D rigs here came from Florida and let me tell you, that's a different kind of rust. They rust in weird places cuz of all the salt in the air.

 

[Memaloose]

In my opinion, it depends on how much you want it. From the photos, I probably would grudgingly give $700 but maybe the next guy would give him $2000. It definitely needs work and NOTHING is cheep anymore. Just tires would run you $800 mounted and balanced.
Offer him what you want to pay and show him the cash. Cash talks with me.

 

[bucket]

Rust repair is PITA, period. I just now saw you're in Florida. If traveling is an option, I'd be looking in South Ga/Alabama for some cleaner stuff. Some of our R&D rigs here came from Florida and let me tell you, that's a different kind of rust. They rust in weird places cuz of all the salt in the air.

Florida is a funny state. Some stuff is super solid, some stuff is riddled with rust.

Despite being in Ohio, I do own a few vehicles with zero rust. They are all from out of state. One of them is from New Port Richey, Florida.

 

[hey mister]

There is tons of aftermarket sheet metal in the catelogs.
Metal aint the issue, money and time are.
The head gasket might be the issue, a cracked liner will also pump coolant. Wont know until you scope it or unbolt it.
If you figure on the "worse case" scenerio, you wonxt be surprised.
And here is how I negotiate it...
He says "head gasket"..I would reply, "or cylinder liner".
Spare tranny in bed..."is that the original or a replacement?" Was it rebuilt? By who?
Any "questionable" aspects of the vehicle work in your favor to chip at the price.
If you think it's a $***.XX truck, then once you have layed out all the "negatives", reach in your pocket and pull out your off and tell him, this is it. And let him be the next person to speak. Under no circumstances do you say 1 word until he does. If he hesitates and him-haws, pick up you offer and thank him for his time. Do not hesitate and Walk away. Don't look at the vehicle.
The key is "zero" emotional attachment.
You know not to grocery shop when you're hungry.
Don't car shop with emotion. It's a head game.

The other thought might be it's a doner for another truck. Two doners might make 1 dependable driver.

Just some thoughts.
Good luck.

 

[Matt69olds]

For me, that's a parts truck. $500, and that's pretty high. That thing is going to need everything. Not saying it's not worth saving, but it's not worth much money.

You have my attention.

That’s a decent truck around here, and 2k would be in the ballpark of what something in that condition would go for.

So now I’m curious: what would a clean Arizona beater truck go for? I’m talking about typical sun scorched paint and interior, well worn but functional suspension/tires/etc, but hasn’t been infested with the dreaded tin worms.

I can remember when these trucks were common. Many were driven to the junkyard, not because they didn’t run, but because there wasn’t enough sheet metal around you to keep your feet dry, or the seat in place. Many trucks ran flawlessly, just not much of the truck left. You couldn’t give away the truck, people would buy it just for the drivetrain. Meaning you would get more for the engine than you could for the entire truck.

 

[Girth]

Wherever someone is shopping, geography wise, sure seems to make a difference. Around here, for $500-1000, you get a halfway decent roller, with no engine or trans, or a truck that's "missing" the title. Then again, I picked up my C10 for $2500, but I suspect that's because it being a diesel scared most folks. $3-4k seems to be the going rate for a decent/solid (and running) project truck here.

 

[Ricko1966]

I'm with @bucket 1000,1500 bucks isn't terrible for that truck if you want to do the work. Most times it is a head gasket,next is a cracked head,very occasionally a cracked block. But if I thought it could be drivable for 500, and my time. I'd have no problem giving 1000. for it. After it's running you can locate a better cab and bed,from a truck being parted,a parts truck with no title,etc. Or patch up the worst and drive it for what it is,rust and dents add character.