What to do while I get things ready for paint?

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smullen

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So, as I've posted before, my square needs everything... LOL..

I just got both new bedsides last week, not sure when I'll get them on. Hopefully soon. Then the next thing will be rockers (inner and outter) then doors and cab corners and floor I've posted about..

Its obviously going to be a year or so, maybe longer before I'm done replacing panels and shaving things.

The new bed sides (most replacement panels, no matter from who) warn they are only coated in the EDP and are not for long term.
I plan to drive the truck here and there a bit when its nice and I hate the idea of driving a multicolor truck. Right now its all red with a black hood.

I'm under the impression that leaving it primer long tern will lead to rust.

What are my options to keep all the metal nice and protected in my situation till its ready for final paint?
 

CalSgt

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If you aren't dealing with bare metal you could just scuff & paint the panels with some summit (or any brand) urethane single stage paint. For under $150 per gallon including activator it isn't a super expensive way to cover it up until you're ready to do final paint.

I suppose you could scuff the EDP and put down a coat of epoxy, it's not the best finish but it sticks good and should protect from rust. It's probably not good for epoxy to be exposed to sun light long term though, it's not normally UV stable.

Note: If you get lazy, cheap, or rush just to get a coating on it so it looks good enough to drive you will pay for it later. What ever you choose it needs to be prepped and stick to the panels or you will end up needing to strip them to bare steel before your next paint job which will increase the work required ten fold.

If it were me and I didn't need the truck for a DD, I would keep it in the shop (or covered up) until finished & only paint it once. Get the parts, assemble and do body work as you go, lay down epoxy, then primer surfacer, and top coat in your color of choice. My 2 cents.
 

fast 99

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Any epoxy primer I used after a week needed to be sanded and re-coated with epoxy again. Apparently, nothing else sticks long term. Not a huge deal but it does add to the cost. Epoxy primer and likely most primers aren't UV stable. As far as I know only topcoats are.
 

CalSgt

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Any epoxy primer I used after a week needed to be sanded and re-coated with epoxy again. Apparently, nothing else sticks long term. Not a huge deal but it does add to the cost. Epoxy primer and likely most primers aren't UV stable. As far as I know only topcoats are.
My understanding is if you don't cover epoxy in the re-coat time (4 days to a week) it needs to be sanded prior to being coated with anything. Not to mean it MUST be recoated in a week, you can still coat it with primer or paint after then but it will require scuffing/sanding prior, Epoxy is a PIA to sand too.
 

Trucksareforwork

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My understanding is if you don't cover epoxy in the re-coat time (4 days to a week) it needs to be sanded prior to being coated with anything. Not to mean it MUST be recoated in a week, you can still coat it with primer or paint after then but it will require scuffing/sanding prior, Epoxy is a PIA to sand too.

Couple things…. There are UV stable epoxies. Just have to look. Pretty sure SPI is UV stable. I have used a bunch of the black and it has not chalked up.

On the sanding need, I think you are referring to the need to scuff epoxy to create a new “key” for a new coat to grab. That’s right but it’s a heck of a lot less labor intensive that stripping a coat of urethane paint; and a quick reshoot of epoxy is ready for filler right away. Not sure I would put filler over cheap urethane.

For the OP: if I were going to drive the truck with new panels attached and no paint, I would also ensure the insides of the panels are coated. You will end up with rust on the panels. Projects tend to take a lot of time and it would be a shame to disassemble and find rust.
 

CalSgt

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Couple things…. There are UV stable epoxies. Just have to look. Pretty sure SPI is UV stable. I have used a bunch of the black and it has not chalked up.

On the sanding need, I think you are referring to the need to scuff epoxy to create a new “key” for a new coat to grab. That’s right but it’s a heck of a lot less labor intensive that stripping a coat of urethane paint; and a quick reshoot of epoxy is ready for filler right away. Not sure I would put filler over cheap urethane.

For the OP: if I were going to drive the truck with new panels attached and no paint, I would also ensure the insides of the panels are coated. You will end up with rust on the panels. Projects tend to take a lot of time and it would be a shame to disassemble and find rust.
I agree... Definitely don't put filler on top of cheap urethane.
 

fast 99

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My understanding is if you don't cover epoxy in the re-coat time (4 days to a week) it needs to be sanded prior to being coated with anything. Not to mean it MUST be recoated in a week, you can still coat it with primer or paint after then but it will require scuffing/sanding prior, Epoxy is a PIA to sand too.

That's correct it doesn't need to be recoated in any particular time frame just that after a week it should be sanded and recoated with epoxy before sealer or paint. Most epoxy can be diluted and used as a sealer eliminating one step.

Find a good auto paint store. Have them print instruction for the material used. Ask a lot of questions. Preferably don't mix brands.
 

Grit dog

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Agree, paint the inside of all the panels before you install or assemble.
Regarding the rest of the truck, if you already have to prime bedsides and other random parts then prep the rest properly and shoot it all with a good coat of 2k urethane primer. If you use cheap chit, or sand it, it will open up and absorb moisture quicker.
You need to prime it all eventually anyway and that cures the multicolor problem.
If you use black primer then everyone will just assume you painted it flat black!
 

Ricko1966

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I did not read everything so if this has been covered,sorry. Epoxy primer has a window for topcoating,but if you shoot it with primer surfacer during that window when you are ready for paint. Clean it scuff it paint it. But you won't get rust through the epoxy primer.
 

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