What manual hubs are you running?

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The88

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I am looking at a few different brands of manual hubs. I am leaning toward Mile Marker due to an all steel construction and seeming a little beefier than Warn. Anyone have any other options I should consider?
 

adamj

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I'll have to check those out.
I had some problems with the warn premium hubs. The first pair I ordered had a problem with one of the hubs failing to lock, so I returned those. The second pair, one of them was stuck and wouldn't rotate, so I returned those and currently have some old junkyard ones that came on the truck. (Spicer?) So still looking for an alternative.

Are you looking at the 302's by mile marker?
 

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I have had good luck with a couple sets of Mile Marker hubs.
 

nickbailey1993

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Spicers are the best imho but they are no longer available new. I found a used set on eBay. Yukon makes a set that is very similar to the old spicers, but they are a bit pricey.

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I run Warn Premiums on my suburban. I did blow up a set, but that was how I found out that I have mismatched gears in my front and rear axles :thumbsdown:

Since replacing them with a new set, I have had no issues with them. They engage and disengage fairly effortlessly, and have not had them pop out, or malfunction. Until I get around to re-gearing, I only use 4wd on an as-needed basis, in slick off-pavement conditions (usually when I have a loaded trailer behind me).
 

adamj

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I run Warn Premiums on my suburban. I did blow up a set, but that was how I found out that I have mismatched gears in my front and rear axles :thumbsdown:

Since replacing them with a new set, I have had no issues with them. They engage and disengage fairly effortlessly, and have not had them pop out, or malfunction. Until I get around to re-gearing, I only use 4wd on an as-needed basis, in slick off-pavement conditions (usually when I have a loaded trailer behind me).

I know, besides the OEM spicers, I've read that the Warn premium hubs are the next best thing. Maybe I just got unlucky with a bad batch...
 

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Spicers are the best imho but they are no longer available new. I found a used set on eBay. Yukon makes a set that is very similar to the old spicers, but they are a bit pricey.

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Holy crap, you weren't kidding, those Yukon hubs are expensive, they go for $357!!!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-29096

Is it worth it? Anybody running these?
 

The88

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Well just to bring up an old thread I did infact get the mile markers and they are still sitting in the box at home. Well I tell you what I sure could have used them bc I found out my stock auto lockers are ******* shot. I needed 4x4 and nothing. Front end will not engage. Well I guess while I swap in a new rear drive shaft I will go ahead and get off my lazy ass and swap out my hubs at the same time. So remember kids if you get new parts just put em on.
 

Honky Kong jr

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I have a set of Warns installed a set of MMs on the shelf and a set of Spicers. I’m really liking the look of the Spicers are they crap or worth swapping? They came off the K20 I scrapped I wanna say 80 but not sure they were OEM on that axle so what ever year that was, was the year of the truck.
 

shiftpro

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Holy crap, you weren't kidding, those Yukon hubs are expensive, they go for $357!!!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-29096

Is it worth it? Anybody running these?

Yes, absolutely. Also Dynatrac, which are about identical.
If you step up your front D60, by installing the D70 stub shafts, you would need to also step up the hubs or they become the 'fuse'.
And if you don;t already know, busting a hub off road really ruins your day. BTW, the Dynatrac and Yukon copies will stay locked
in if you do manage to break them. All the others, broken means call for help. They will be broken and not engaged, so you remain stuck!

And then after all this you have to step up your U-joints, at least the one on the diff. Install one strong part and down the line the next 'victim'
is waiting to break.
 

shiftpro

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Dynatrac was around before Yukon so I think the patent expired and Yukon started making. I could be wrong but I think they are identical...
 

bucket

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The average fella doesn't run or need a D60, with or without 35 spline stubs. And of the guys running a D60, it's often overkill. So in most cases, the average cheaper hub will do the job just fine.

I'm a little partial to the 1/4 turn Mile Markers, but both Warn models are good too.
 

77 K20

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Holy crap, you weren't kidding, those Yukon hubs are expensive, they go for $357!!!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-29096

Is it worth it? Anybody running these?


I'm resurrecting this old thread- as I put the Yukon Hardcore locking hubs on my Amazon wish list over a year ago when I read this thread. Today I checked my wish list and found that they were $160 cheaper than they were before. They were $211... which is still a lot. Looked around online and everyone else still wanted over $300. But I noticed Yukon has a mail in rebate on them right now. $35 off until April 30th so I bought them.

About 15 minutes after buying them I went back into Amazon to post a link here and guess what? Price bumped back up to $334. How strange.

My old hubs have the plastic lockout and the metal ring that goes around them are now cracked. Figure that where I drive the truck in the middle of nowhere these hubs are a good thing to have.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSIWSFM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

77 K20

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I installed ONE hub today. Was going to install both- but because of the stupid de-icer here I had 4 out of 6 of the allen bolts that hold the old hubs on not want to come off. Ended up stripping out the head- so then had to drill them out. My drill bit set sucks- so ended up breaking a drill bit on them.

Cleaned everything then installed the Yukon hardcore hub. They are two differences from the old Warn hubs I removed- there is a spacer that needs to slide on over the axle shaft first. Not quite sure what that is for... then there is a large spring also that gets installed. This video with a cut away hub shows it well.

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The outer hub flange (not sure what you call it) and the external part where you grab with your fingers and twist/turn to lock and unlock the hub is heavy duty. It is machined out of one chunk of heavy metal. It doesn't lock and unlock as easily as the old warn hubs- just takes a little more effort. And when unlocking sometimes I found I couldn't like I could on the old hubs. If in 4 WD and you want to unlock them I found sometimes they were "bound up" so I had to shift into 2 WD and then roll back 1'-2' then they unlocked easily. I remember I was told to do this as a kid many years ago. Perhaps the old design in the 70s-80s was similar. I never understood the rolling back a few feet until today.

They do appear to be a lot stronger- just are slightly harder to turn. Hopefully I will have time to do the other side tomorrow. I already know 2 of the allen bolts on that side won't want to break loose. I have them soaking overnight.

Oh- the new Yukon hubs have stainless allen bolts. They are one size bigger than the ones that were on my Warn hubs. Also their screws are made out of stainless and have little plastic/nylon washers that go on each allen bolt. Supposedly helps seal them and make it easier for removal later.
 

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