80BrownK10
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2019
- Posts
- 1,878
- Reaction score
- 1,247
- Location
- Greenwood, SC
- First Name
- Nate
- Truck Year
- 1980
- Truck Model
- K10
- Engine Size
- 350
Or BMWs made here....Stihl chain saws made in Virginia Beach.
What is this?
- Thread starter tadslc
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
80BrownK10
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2019
- Posts
- 1,878
- Reaction score
- 1,247
- Location
- Greenwood, SC
- First Name
- Nate
- Truck Year
- 1980
- Truck Model
- K10
- Engine Size
- 350
But in all seriousness, if you have experience with foreign stuff you should not have much trouble once you actually look at how it's all routed. It's no where near as complicated as those old Toyota's or Mitsubishi's I have worked on. There are vacuume lines everywhere. Even factory dead end lines that branch off of things. Some of that crap makes no sense to me??
WesN
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2018
- Posts
- 219
- Reaction score
- 604
- Location
- Edmonton Alberta Canada
- First Name
- Wes
- Truck Year
- 1981
- Truck Model
- C1500
- Engine Size
- 350
It looks like your torque converter lockup vacuum switch located by the brake booster doesn’t have a vacuum line going to it.
Bextreme04
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 13, 2019
- Posts
- 4,439
- Reaction score
- 5,581
- Location
- Oregon
- First Name
- Eric
- Truck Year
- 1980
- Truck Model
- K25
- Engine Size
- 350-4bbl
But in all seriousness, if you have experience with foreign stuff you should not have much trouble once you actually look at how it's all routed. It's no where near as complicated as those old Toyota's or Mitsubishi's I have worked on. There are vacuume lines everywhere. Even factory dead end lines that branch off of things. Some of that crap makes no sense to me??
Ugh... the very first engine removal I ever did was in high school on a 1991 Toyota Supra.. that thing must have had 100 vacuum lines all over the place. It was a fricking nightmare.
Ricko1966
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2017
- Posts
- 5,450
- Reaction score
- 8,693
- Location
- kansas
- First Name
- Rick
- Truck Year
- 1975
- Truck Model
- c20
- Engine Size
- 350
When you are doing 1 like that, unbolt the intake leave fuel lines and vacuum lines attached.Bungie it to the bottom of the hood or somewhere else out of the way. It's a huge time saver.
Bextreme04
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 13, 2019
- Posts
- 4,439
- Reaction score
- 5,581
- Location
- Oregon
- First Name
- Eric
- Truck Year
- 1980
- Truck Model
- K25
- Engine Size
- 350-4bbl
It's not really a viable way to do it. They don't go just to the intake and the hood has to come off to fit the motor in/out. Also, I had no real idea what I was doing at the time. Now I just tape each connection and label everything. Thankfully I haven't had to do one like that ever again. Motor swap in the K25 will have a single vacuum line for the AC system and either hydro-boost or the big vacuum line for the vacuum booster. Nice and simple
