What have you done to your square lately??

[TotalyHucked]

Pulled the T56, installed the clutch. Then swore at it and went home lol

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Finkaire]

Thanks, fittings too large
Just ordered a Modine copper, new on EBay. Local radiator shop wanted $800 to recore the original. I believe the Modine to be of OE quality, now if it only fits!

 

[Redfish]

Lots of little nitpicking things. New PCV valve, cleaning... One thing that has bothered me since I bought The Truck has been the rust and faded black paint on the rear bumper, the hitch and the ball mount. So I unbolted the hitch, grabbed an old ball mount, got a wire wheel on my drill and went to work. A little rattle can flat black, a little masking tape and suddenly the rear bumper, hitch and ball mount don't bother me anymore. I dug around and found the least used 2 inch ball in my collection and decided it was just shiny enough to complete the look.

Trying to get The Old Truck ready for Cruisin the Coast.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Copymutt]

Wrapping up a full rear brakes restoration.
New chews, all hardware, cylinders. Sand blasted the backing plates. Even hard faced & trued up the worn slide spots on the backing plates. Lubed all slides, pivots, adjuster.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[AZ Highlander]

nice work @Copymutt !
I did similarly this weekend.
Got the drums painted too.

 

[AZ Highlander]

nice work @Copymutt !
I did similarly this weekend.
Got the drums painted too.

Brakes wouldn’t bleed out back. No fluid to the rear hose either. I checked the proportioning valve on the frame rail up front with a test light. Sure enough, grounded, which means it isn’t letting fluid to the rear lines. Tried removing the switch, but broke it. What now? New brass valve? Which one for the 1987 1/2 ton 4x4? PV2?

 

[Blue Ox]

Brakes wouldn’t bleed out back. No fluid to the rear hose either. I checked the proportioning valve on the frame rail up front with a test light. Sure enough, grounded, which means it isn’t letting fluid to the rear lines. Tried removing the switch, but broke it. What now? New brass valve? Which one for the 1987 1/2 ton 4x4? PV2?

The combination valve does not prevent fluid from going to either circuit. The switch also has nothing to do with it. It only activates the warning light. Since you have no pressure on the rear circuit it stands to reason that the light is activated. Unless the valve is a ball of rot you've either got an obstruction or the master isn't bled correctly.

You may be able to buy just the switch, although it depends on what valve you have.

 

[AZ Highlander]

The combination valve does not prevent fluid from going to either circuit. The switch also has nothing to do with it. It only activates the warning light. Since you have no pressure on the rear circuit it stands to reason that the light is activated. Unless the valve is a ball of rot you've either got an obstruction or the master isn't bled correctly.

You may be able to buy just the switch, although it depends on what valve you have.

Based on what I've read, the valve shuts off the lines that are low on pressure. Is that not correct?
Here is a thread that discusses the brass brake valve and the problems/solutions I am attempting:

proportioning valve/combo valve woes

85 c20. Had a red brake light on in the dash for months. Thought it was something to do with a faulty e brake (even rho the e brake worked). finally asked about the light and was told it could be an indication of a more serious problem with my hydraulic system.apparently there is a...

www.gmsquarebody.com

Thanks for the reply Ox.

 

[Ajax19]

Brakes wouldn’t bleed out back. No fluid to the rear hose either. I checked the proportioning valve on the frame rail up front with a test light. Sure enough, grounded, which means it isn’t letting fluid to the rear lines. Tried removing the switch, but broke it. What now? New brass valve? Which one for the 1987 1/2 ton 4x4? PV2?

I went through that on my truck a few weeks ago it was the valve bleed the front a few times and mash on the pedal I heard a audible click from the valve and had fluid to the rear again (I had a leaky wheel cylinder)

 

[Ajax19]

Based on what I've read, the valve shuts off the lines that are low on pressure. Is that not correct?
Here is a thread that discusses the brass brake valve and the problems/solutions I am attempting:

proportioning valve/combo valve woes

85 c20. Had a red brake light on in the dash for months. Thought it was something to do with a faulty e brake (even rho the e brake worked). finally asked about the light and was told it could be an indication of a more serious problem with my hydraulic system.apparently there is a...

www.gmsquarebody.com

Thanks for the reply Ox.

Correct low fluid/leaking the valve shuts off either front or rear

 

[AZ Highlander]

I went through that on my truck a few weeks ago it was the valve bleed the front a few times and mash on the pedal I heard a audible click from the valve and had fluid to the rear again (I had a leaky wheel cylinder)

Thanks Ajax. I had tried that a couple times. Plenty of fluid coming out the driver's front bleeder when I mashed the pedal with just that bleeder open. Engine running. Didn't hear a click though. Might be old junk stuck somewhere, maybe in the valve? These brakes were seriously neglected. Only the driver's front caliper rubber was still intact. Both rear cylinders were flaking rubber on one side. The passenger front caliper was seized on the rotor, half the rubber around the piston was missing. have replaced nearly everything on the brake system. Seems like the valve is next in line! LOL

 

[Ajax19]

Thanks Ajax. I had tried that a couple times. Plenty of fluid coming out the driver's front bleeder when I mashed the pedal with just that bleeder open. Engine running. Didn't hear a click though. Might be old junk stuck somewhere, maybe in the valve? These brakes were seriously neglected. Only the driver's front caliper rubber was still intact. Both rear cylinders were flaking rubber on one side. The passenger front caliper was seized on the rotor, half the rubber around the piston was missing. have replaced nearly everything on the brake system. Seems like the valve is next in line! LOL

Try smacking it with a mallet or dead blow

 

[Mossyman]

The only thing I did was almost put a for sale sign on mine

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Blue Ox]

Based on what I've read, the valve shuts off the lines that are low on pressure. Is that not correct?
Here is a thread that discusses the brass brake valve and the problems/solutions I am attempting:

proportioning valve/combo valve woes

85 c20. Had a red brake light on in the dash for months. Thought it was something to do with a faulty e brake (even rho the e brake worked). finally asked about the light and was told it could be an indication of a more serious problem with my hydraulic system.apparently there is a...

www.gmsquarebody.com

Thanks for the reply Ox.

Never in the unfortunate multitude of brake failures I've had on GM vehicles has that valve "shut off" anything. If it did you wouldn't get that spongy pedal and half of the master emptying itself. All it does is turn on the warning light.

If the system is that neglected it is possible that the assembly is plugged with rust. You can take the back end of the valve (the rear proportioning side) and see how cruddy it is in there. You could also loosen the line to the rear brakes and see if you get fluid out of the valve at that point.

 

[Ricko1966]

Here is an explanation of how a combination valve should function.

How Do Combination Valves Work?

techtalk-mpbrakes-com.cdn.ampproject.org