What have you done to your square lately??

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TotalyHucked

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Rebuilt my HVAC box with a new heater core, new seals and cleaned/lubed all the moving components. Then after lots of cussing and about 3hrs, finally got it back in the truck. That is not a fun job


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Soundmound

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Rebuilt my HVAC box with a new heater core, new seals and cleaned/lubed all the moving components. Then after lots of cussing and about 3hrs, finally got it back in the truck. That is not a fun job


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Ha! I'm redoing mine for the second time... discovered I had a bad vacuum valve in the HVAC controls after getting it all back together. Since it was out again I decided to redo all the gaskets properly, including pulling and "restapling" the one on the defrost door. I hope to reinstall it tonight barring further issues.
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TotalyHucked

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Ha! I'm redoing mine for the second time... discovered I had a bad vacuum valve in the HVAC controls after getting it all back together. Since it was out again I decided to redo all the gaskets properly, including pulling and "restapling" the one on the defrost door. I hope to reinstall it tonight barring further issues.
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Is the defrost door supposed to have gasket all the way around like that? I only replaced the 2 little strips at the end where the staples were. I pray I don't have to do this again for a very long time. If I do, I will redo the entire system lol
 

Soundmound

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Not en
Is the defrost door supposed to have gasket all the way around like that? I only replaced the 2 little strips at the end where the staples were. I pray I don't have to do this again for a very long time. If I do, I will redo the entire system lol
Not entirely sure TBH. The old one was crumbling goo and appeared to have torn at the ends. As I tested the HVAC controls I noticed there was a gap between the door and case when fully closed. I assume you'd not want blowby if the door is meant to seal. I chose to gasket on attempt two rather than have to do an attempt three lol. Plus, the surface rust pattern indicated there was something there at one time.
 

bucket

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Never in the unfortunate multitude of brake failures I've had on GM vehicles has that valve "shut off" anything. If it did you wouldn't get that spongy pedal and half of the master emptying itself. All it does is turn on the warning light.

If the system is that neglected it is possible that the assembly is plugged with rust. You can take the back end of the valve (the rear proportioning side) and see how cruddy it is in there. You could also loosen the line to the rear brakes and see if you get fluid out of the valve at that point.

Same here. If I had a nickel for every time I lost a rear brake line, the pedal squished to the floor and I lost all my brake fluid... I wouldn't be rich, but I'd have a big pile of nickels.
 

Ajax19

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Same here. If I had a nickel for every time I lost a rear brake line, the pedal squished to the floor and I lost all my brake fluid... I wouldn't be rich, but I'd have a big pile of nickels.
In my case valve activated and brakes were firm
 

AZ Highlander

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In my case valve activated and brakes were firm
I have firm pedal as well.
Front is flowing as expected.
I got rear flow to the rear hose block on the rear diff last week, changed nothing upstream of that junction, but now have no flow there either.
Maybe I will take the compressor and blow out the line from the valve to the junction on the rear diff just to ensure the line is open for business.
New PV2 valve should arrive tomorrow.
 

Dryriver1

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Here is an explanation of how a combination valve should function.

Hello @Ricko1966 !

I hope all is well. I just wanted to say that that was an excellent and very informative article.

Thank you for always imparting, teaching, helping, and passing on some very good knowledge to all of the GMSB Buddies along with many of the other members here that help out in the same way.

Thank you again!

Be well and stay safe out there.
Best wishes to you and all of your loved ones always!

Dryriver1
 

Powerhouse Ranch

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Rebuilt my HVAC box with a new heater core, new seals and cleaned/lubed all the moving components. Then after lots of cussing and about 3hrs, finally got it back in the truck. That is not a fun job


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no it is not. kudos bud
 

TotalyHucked

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When they cut my truck down, they literally cut the ebrake cables and welded them back together with a nut in the middle. So when I pulled my rear end out to have it rebuilt, I cut everything off.

So a few months back, I was adjusting the rear brakes and put new cables on each side while I was there and just zip-tied them in the frame. Finally put the new front e-brake cable on with all new hardware, hooked it all up and I have an Ebrake for the first time in 2 years!
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So now that that was done, I put my freshly bedlined driver’s side SloshTub back in
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…And had to promptly pull the hardware back out to get a few pinched wires out :doh2:
 
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Ajax19

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New led headlights old glass ones literally fell apart when I took the ring off so it was just in time almost dark here so I'll get to test them out in a bit
 

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mxer147

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DA sanding the inside of the cab and cleaned up the caulk that was holding on the door weather seals. I pretty much stripped the inside which revealed really bad rust on the driver floor pan which was a result of carpet padding holding moisture. Im not happy about the extra work but that’s how it goes sometimes so I’m just gonna roll with it. My welding skills should improve at the least. New floor pans arrived today which I will weld over the winter months on descent weather days. I’m still working to spray some primer and paint before the snow flys.
 

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