What have you done to your square lately??

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justhorns

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New ignition module and wires. More to come later. I ran resistance of all the ignition wires new and old to see if any were bad, and see if you can see how long the wire is by its resistance. None of my old wires were bad. will post numbers on resistance shortly. Wires are standard Delco.
Here is the resistance of my 250-6's ignition wires, new and old (on right). I used my milwaukee meter, which is pretty accurate. As you can see, the longer wires have higher values than the short ones. I think this tells me my old wires (each being ac Delco) were OK.
 

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Ajax19

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Here is the resistance of my 250-6's ignition wires, new and old (on right). I used my milwaukee meter, which is pretty accurate. As you can see, the longer wires have higher values than the short ones. I think this tells me my old wires (each being ac Delco) were OK.
Curious what they would look like if you ran the engine for a bit resistance should go up with the heat example of that would be a engine starts and runs fine cold gets hot and starts having issues
 

GMC_Nick

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Gas Tank moved to the rear finally, still have to do the final fit on the straps and run lines
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Grit dog

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Dryriver1

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Think it's a bad ground?
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
Hello Doug! I hope all is well.

Many years back I had that problem with a 79 I had. It ended up being the resistor on the back of the gauge.

First check all your grounds are ok....
it might end up being this resistor.
I have not dealt with this company before though.
At the time it was at a small Mom & Pop local auto parts store I bought it at.

I have seen some original ac delco on fleabay before.

I hope it helps.

best wishes to you and all of your loved ones always!

Dryriver1

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

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Bextreme04

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Finally got around to putting the bottom leaf back in to the Tuff Country 4" EZ-ride HD front springs I've had on the truck for a year or two. Now it sits much more level and rides WAY better. I had taken the bottom leaf out thinking that it would ride a bit softer and give me about the same ride quality/height that I could expect with the extra leaf and the 454/4L80 swapped in at a later date. BIG mistake. It rides perfect now with the sway bar disconnected and at the correct height. No more bump steer either now that the drag link is level(I have a 4" lift steering arm on it).

I also finally got the stock intake swapped out for an Edelbrock 2101 Performer intake. I got it used from a local seller over a year ago for $100 and had been meaning to put it on ever since. Its the quadrajet intake with heat crossover and choke provisions and also factory powdercoated aluminum finish. It had obviously been installed for a VERY short amount of time and still looked brand new in the original box. Truck runs much better with the new intake.

I still need to get the wideband hooked up and do some tuning, it is still running pretty rich. Went to a local squarebody group BBQ on saturday and it was about a 90 mile drive on the freeway each way. Used about 17 gallons of fuel, so a little better than 10mpg cruising with 4.10's and 35's at 65mph.
 

chevytech87

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I finally changed the (bad) battery that’s been in the truck since I bought it. It’s amazing how much better it starts and runs, really kicking myself for being lazy and cheap for 2+ years. Figured I’d just let it ride until it didn’t want to crank up in the morning. Lesson learned
 

Ajax19

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Got a new to me trailer to haul my junk around 10k rated steel deck 3good tires needs some TLC only paid 1k with a title so I think I did good
 

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ChuckN

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Pulled off the Edelbrock cast valve covers today to put the Moroso old schools on. Back to the drawing board; either Moroso used a proprietary grommet size for the breather hole, or someone hogged it out to make the hole bigger for some reason.

So if anyone has any ideas how to make the hole smaller for the breather, let me know. The grommet rattles around. I think wrapping it with vulcanizing tape wouldn’t work and would be a potential source of material to end up floating around in the engine. I suppose I could try to seal it with some Permatex Ultra Grey or Black.

So I cleaned up the Edelbrock covers nice, and put on my favorite set of gaskets, Fel Pro 1628. I also used a new set of stainless steel Phillips machine screws to hold on the valve covers, a trick my dad taught me years ago to keep from over tightening.

Bow, our new rescue, kept me company and loves just hanging around in the cab.

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Camar068

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Pulled off the Edelbrock cast valve covers today to put the Moroso old schools on. Back to the drawing board; either Moroso used a proprietary grommet size for the breather hole, or someone hogged it out to make the hole bigger for some reason.

So if anyone has any ideas how to make the hole smaller for the breather, let me know. The grommet rattles around. I think wrapping it with vulcanizing tape wouldn’t work and would be a potential source of material to end up floating around in the engine. I suppose I could try to seal it with some Permatex Ultra Grey or Black.

So I cleaned up the Edelbrock covers nice, and put on my favorite set of gaskets, Fel Pro 1628. I also used a new set of stainless steel Phillips machine screws to hold on the valve covers, a trick my dad taught me years ago to keep from over tightening.

Bow, our new rescue, kept me company and loves just hanging around in the cab.

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glad your doing the rescue thing. He looks good in that truck and he know's it :)
 

Hogger

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I treated my fresh 383 to some Pro Comp shorty headers and a couple of 2.5 inch tubes with Dyno Max turbo mufflers. The shift linkage binds on the header but I could drive it home. Shift linkage kit on the way. This means I have the factory cast iron exhaust manifolds (84/350) and I wish they would go away. Anybody want them?
 

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