What have you done to your square lately??

[Craig Nedrow]

Do you have the right measurement to cut down the output shaft on the 4L80E? I took a measurement of what the output on my TH400 was when I took it out last year.

Eric, I am finishing up the loose ends on several jobs, and have not tore into the 4l80e. However when I am done, will do another pictorial overview, step by step on everything, including drive lines, or motor relocation, and etc. Probably a few weeks. Also will show how I control the trans as well, haven't made up my mind, but when I am done, anyone who wants to do the same, that article should have all the info. I generally like to complete the project and test it, readjust etc., so I am sharing accurate info. Don't want to lead folks wrong, especially when it involve something this major. Take care.

 

[Goldie Driver]

Changed the thermostat- was thinking that perhaps it was acting up or the incorrect flow rate and making me run hotter on the freeway than I should.

Because of the flow rate I wanted an AC Delco. No dice, even at Xcel Auto who is a big AC Delco dealer here.

Fine - aftermarket it is. Got one of those aurorad failsafes at Devanced. Made in Israel- better than Mexico, or Chinesium, but not Merican. Boo.

Also got some of the Fram real green antifreeze the other day- 14 bux a gallon.

Took it apart, replaced the two questionable tower clamps, and reassembled.

Went to use my expensive antifreeze and watched about a 3rd of it pour out the thermostat housing.



Apparently the thermostat shifted when I put the housing on and it didn't seal.

Second time was mo betta - road tested it and cant see any leaks.

Also played with loosening one if the TVS's to see if maybe it was binding.
I caught that it was too loose before the road trip as it was weeping.

That one controls the EFE and even fully warmed up there is just enough vacuum to suck that rod up a bit.

Maybe a little vacuum leakage is normal, but I doubt it. It got disconnected and the hose plugged again.

Eff it.

 

[Redfish]

I drove it to a small local car show today at Frog's @ Magnolia Beach. We were very close to the Amite River, right outside of Denham Springs, Louisiana.

I tried to snap pics of all of the square body trucks I saw but there were not a lot to choose from. I took a pic of a couple other things just because I thought they looked good.

I hope y'all enjoy.

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[Redfish]

I am breaking this post into two because I don't yet know how many pics I can include in one post.

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[Redfish]

Okay, 3 posts because the number of pics is 5! This will pretty much tell what I did to/with my Square Body today.

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[Doppleganger]

So far I think yours was the nicest one there.

 

[Camar068]

researched changing gear ratio in the 4l60e. Anyone changed the input carrier to the Sonnax kit? Still doing research. Don't know if only that part can be replaced or if other stuff has to be upgraded as well.

Copied and pasted from Sonnax site:

Sonnax 2.84 ratio input kit

Reduce ratio change by converting 1st Gear from 3.06 to 2.84 with Sonnax input carrier kit 77284-K, a great way to gain a better performing, more durable transmission. The one-of-a-kind Sonnax gear set improves overall launch in powerful applications, plus reduces stress on band and clutches on the shifts. The chart below shows how changing to the 2.84 gear set offers benefits go far beyond a 1st Gear ratio change.

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1. There is an obvious change to the 1st Gear ratio: 3.06 to 2.84. This reduces the overall ratio ‘spread’ from 1st Gear to 4th Gear, making a close-ratio transmission compared to the OE ratios being a wide-ratio spread. This change mostly affects the Starting Line Ratio (SLR) which is calculated by combining the transmission ratio with rear axle final drive ratio and then tire radius. The reduced torque multiplication (from 3.06 to 2.84) also reduces the torque loads on some transmission components.
2. There is a less-obvious, but still important, change in the ratio drop BETWEEN gears. With less ratio drop between gears, there is less work required of the clutches and band to make the ratio change happen. A smaller ratio drop also reduces the shock loads on related hard parts. At both the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shifts, the Sonnax input carrier delivers a reduced ratio drop. From 3rd Gear on, the OE and Sonnax gear ratios are the same.

 

[waterpirate]

Another long day on Saturday. UgHHHH!
Door handles and door latches
Final door adjustment and striker install
Sand blasted window glass tracks and bottom of windows and paint
Deconstructed the side vents and frames, sandblast and paint
Deconstructed the grille and prepped to paint silver with blue pearl
Repaired small crack in gauge bezel and removed old chrome trim to install new
Prepped door panels and new dash pad and all interior parts for paint

I am glad that next weekend is the Super Bowl cause I could use a break! lol
Eric

 

[78C10BigTen]

I am breaking this post into two because I don't yet know how many pics I can include in one post.

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COOL WILLYS!!! i kinda like that blazer, at least the paint job anyway.

 

[78C10BigTen]

Okay, 3 posts because the number of pics is 5! This will pretty much tell what I did to/with my Square Body today.

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LOVE THAT STEPPER!!!!

 

[Goldie Driver]

Just because I am stubborn/stupid/insane I hooked the vacuum line to the EFE back up.

Curious- if anyone on the board still has a EFE and the thermal valve installed and functioning, can you tell me if when fully warmed up there is still slight vacuum on those 2 lines permitting slight functioning of those 2 items ?

Easy to check- and get to - just pull off the vacuum line and put your finger over it. If you feel suction, there is vacuum.

Maybe they aren't really efficient valves and never truly close off.

Or, maybe both my remaining OE valve and the aftermarket 4 port one are bad.

Dont have another one handy to compare nor another vintage square to compare with.

Also checked the radiator after yesterday's fun - full, and so is the coolant reservoir.

No visible leaks, either , so I guess Goldie takes me to work tomorrow.

 

[SirRobyn0]

@Goldie Driver when you say thermal valve are you talking about the thermac located on the snorkel for the air cleaner? If so yes I still have mine and it is fully functional. The way those are setup is the thermal part of it is set to maintain an incoming air temperature of around 90F so if it's say 50 or 60F outside it'll only open partially drawing some air out of the front scoop and some air hot air from around the exhaust manifold. If it's hot out the valve will fully open permitting outside air only to flow in. So what your seeing is normal depending on air temps.

 

[Goldie Driver]

@Goldie Driver when you say thermal valve are you talking about the thermac located on the snorkel for the air cleaner? If so yes I still have mine and it is fully functional. The way those are setup is the thermal part of it is set to maintain an incoming air temperature of around 90F so if it's say 50 or 60F outside it'll only open partially drawing some air out of the front scoop and some air hot air from around the exhaust manifold. If it's hot out the valve will fully open permitting outside air only to flow in. So what your seeing is normal depending on air temps.

Cool - seems like I read that somewhere. I got irritated at the TVSs and plugged the EFE hose again. Then I played follow the vaccuum hose vs the schematic and am sure the EFE is correct, but cannot tell on the EGR as there are 4 ports on my TVS 2 on top side by side and 2 on bottom.

The schematic makes it look like both hoses should just go thru the valve. Dont remember now, but it seems like that would be correct if the 2 tops were one line and the 2 bottom ones another.

At any rate, I think one if the Thermac valve hoses was switched, so I changed that. Got home from the grocery store, Goldie all warmed up, and the EFE was still full on (thus the unplug again- should be off by 180 or so and I have a 195 stat) and that Thermac was sucked tight shut.

I plugged it, too - maybe I will undo it.

If I could find good quality aftermarket ones, I would try replacing both of them.

The EFE one us from Rock Auto.

@legopnuematic was kind enough to give me his OE one, but...

The vacuum head broke when I was installing it...



Farking old school emmissions controls...

 

[SirRobyn0]

@Goldie Driver I agree and to my knowledge you have the hook up basically right but a couple of things for you. As far as I know all the thermacs were the same, on the air cleaner one vacuum hose leads to the thermal sensor which has two ports the other vacuum line runs to the thermac on the snorkel. All the thermal sensor has to have is manifold vacuum, any sensors switches ect, before that are best to be left in if functional but you could get by without. Case in point my truck. The former owner removed almost every vacuum line except the PCV and brake booster, so stuff like the temp controlled vacuum switches in the manifold were gone. For my EGR I'm simply running ported vacuum to it. If you wanted you could do that as well, the only down fall to that is it will open at cruise even with a cold engine. I have not had any runablity issues because of it, but I think the main reason was so the EGR wouldn't open when the heat riser is closed which could possibly cause to much EGR flow. My thermal sensor on the air cleaner is hooked directly to manifold vacuum.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Ok what did I do today on the square?

The former owner did some wiring for some aftermarket stuff like the trailer brake controller. His wiring is fine but not always the cleanest. I'm normally pretty good, but I've added a radio, tach, trans temp gauge, lighted review mirror, 2nd saddle tank and associated wiring for tank switch I've pretty much followed along the same places he'd installed wiring, but those runs have expanded quite a bit to where the underside of my dash looked like this. BTW far left black box is trailer brake controller, and from left to right the switches are as follows, tank switch, switch for brake controller, switch for back light on aftermarket gauges, switch for 2 sec, non-variable wiper delay box I believe the former owner home brewed. So I knew this wiring was ugly but the other day I had to park it on the farm close to the fence on the drivers side and I slide out the passenger side, which was fine until I went to get back in had to work around my feet catching on the wiring. Well that was it. This morning was under dash wiring clean up day.

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I thought I had some wire loom in the barn, but what I did have was to small to get it all tucked into, so I did a little electrical taping and zip tieing and got this.

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It's still unsightly but (photo is taken from the seat), it's much less noticeable sitting in the seat now and I won't catch my foot on it if I ever have to slide in from the passenger side again. One of these days at work I'll put it in some loom and tuck it up better.

Yes, I have a new brake pedal pad on order.

After that it was time to clean the interior and treat the vinyl. This was long clean not just a quikie, so vacuum, mats, door jams I even treated the door seals with a little silicone spray.

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New seat cover still looking good, can't even see that wiring under the dash now.

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